DVS JEZ

If its the blue wire according to microtech diagram that will be it. Tap into it and see

Run an engine oil flush then new oil and filter. Sr20's do it to. It might be the valve stem seals gumming up. They normally leak under vacuum(idle etc) and clear up on boost.

Sarge why are u putting the clutch in after boosting and letting revs drop. Try boost then clutch then another gear

Use adjustable gears and trial an error testing to set it up

What fuel pump did u fit again? Wasnt it a second hand gtr pump? Maybe its starting to fail, it is a bit weird that its only happening since u made a new intake pipe. Try earthing the fuel pump in the boot so that its not a variable earth. This may fix the lean pop issue at idle.

What boost pressure are u planning to run? And why are u fitting the stock afm

New software is very user friendly much like or dare i say near copy of the vipec software.

Nistune cheaper and easier and more legal looking and cheaper

Easy fix

What have u got installed exactly. Did u get the rb25 turbo on?

Not always. It can foul the apark plugs fairly quicky. Then a new set of plugs is needed

Check all the belts. Does it only go to die when the aircon is on? Maybe the air con compressor is starting to seize

Check all cooler piping. Very possible that the piping has come off. Check every join and hose clamp.

1- wait till its cold and check for any leaks. 2- take the bottom radiator hose off from the radiator too dump all the coolant. Then use a hose to flush out the radiator and engine. Refit the bottom hose and tighten the clamp. Next remove and clean the coolant overflow bottle thats near the battery. Fill radiator and overflow bottle to max mark with coolant(tectaloy 90 or similar 5L will do) undo the coolant bleed screw located on the inlet manifold as ur topping up coolant, once coolant bubbles up from hole refit bleed screw and nip up. Then start the engine with the radiator cap off(NOTE: only take radiator cap off when the engine is cold) turn the heater on so that coolant flows through and let the engine warm up. The cap should stay off for a few minutes to let any air escape. Refit cap and go for a sensible drive to get to operating temp. Go back and turn off and let it cool down. Leave to cool andthen recheck the coolant level in the radiator and the overflow bottle. NEVER OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. 3- try for a rwc and see if anything fails. 4- i use threebond engine sealant. Its great stuff, make sure mating surfaces are clean and flat before using the sealant. Apply a thinish layer of sealant and mate surfaces together and bolt the part on. Check for leaks after running Hope this helps

Lose lose situation but. Pop the bonnet and possibly get defected. Dont pop the bonnet and get a DECC epa notice

Does cubes' setup have the response and power goals u are chasing? If so then his "should" work if timed correctly

Nice... Did u call me the other day about this turbo? Im curious to see how other people go with them. Im still waiting for dynafit to post his dyno sheet of the ss1.5

U would almost think they know what they are talking about. And have proven it

Ur rev limit seems off. Should be 8000 Cams would be a very good idea. The effort u have gone to to change to rb20 cams etc if funds are available u should get some upgraded cams to suit.

Damn cars. They suck the excitement straight out of you when they dont do what u want them too. Grrrrr

I can vouch for sarge driving like a pussy Sorry sarge. U need some subframe lock spacers to help with the tramping issue's. So who is next on the hypergear performance tune? Waiting on some more results

Trial and error with some setups. Research on more than one site. Find what u like and give it a go. Not everyone is the same. Different people have different opinions, especially when it comes to what is considered laggy. In regards to the gtx series, i would take status's advice. He has tuned alot of cars with different setups and would know whether or not these are any good. He stated they are not any more responsive and require big boost to come to life.

Are u running a power fc?

Mine will be the same. Start it on thursday

Rich and retard. Its an ecu failsafe to try and protect the motor from being overboosted.