DVS JEZ

Timing lock should only be used to set base timing. Turn it off. It doesnt sound right because u would be driving around with 15degrees of timing. Would be really lazy down low. Shouldnt have done any damage. Turn it off and get a tune

I snapped a cas years ago. It snapped the shaft inside the cas. Same symptoms. Take the cover off the cas and check it carefully.

What ecu is it. Sounds like it needs a tune

Up to you of course man.

Awesome write up. So far i have found during fitment that there is not enough clearance between the pads and the rotor. So i took the shims back off the back of the pads to get a bit of clearance. The way i see it is during the bed in period i would prefer some clearance to ensure the brakes arent over heated and glaze up. Then once the pads have worn abit i can fit the shims to the pads.

Think he fixed it already

Maybe u have n1 turbos already. The group a n1s are really laggy

Unbolt the old, then fit the new. Use wd40 on all the bolts before u unbolt them. Use jack stands or car ramps when working from underneath.

Check tail light fuse. Have u got a test light? Can check them with this. Or if not pull them out 1x1. Do the most obvious ones 1st. Tail light, headlight etc

ASAP

Thats a very good price. Think about it. 6 hours work $310 =roughly $50 per hour which is half of what a workshop would charge

Google. Eg - r32 gtr fuse box english

What ecu

Hahahaha Deano your launch was awesome. Glad your happy Ron.

Is it the factory pump or new one? What RPM did it let go? Sorry to hear man.

Check the fluid condition and level.

Yes thats a wideband. Rather than strapping it onto the dyno u can replicate the issue on the road. Will then be able to to see if its a lean spot or not. Now that u say it wont rev past it at all its a bit of a weird one. Can u drive past 3k on light to medium throttle? Did u do a rewire on the fuel pump?

Is the afr fluctuating? Same as above are the inj ms different in high and low cells when fluctuating? Try smoothing these areas out. Set the timing to 15 in the lower cells. See if it helps.

Get your tuner to put a wideband on it and go for a road tune quickly. It will be a small lean spot in the boost transition area

is your timing the same in the higher and lower cells that the rpm enters when hunting?

if the car has never used it before then i guess it can't be an issue.

quote from paulr33 power fc faq "When I turn my car off I loose any changes on the PowerFC! Help!! Any changes made to settings on the Apexi PowerFC are written in memory and then commited to NVRAM when the car is powered off. When the PowerFC detects power loss to IGN it saves its state into NVRAM. This usually takes around 1 second. Once this is complete the unit is safe to be powered off (happens automatically). If your car has had an engine swap it is possible and likely that the standard ECCS wiring has been altered or is not the same as factory. This may mean that when the IGN is turned off the PowerFC doesn't have time to save its changes. This results in any changes made to be 'lost' when the power is off"

Unless the ecu has just been wired in or the wiring for the car isn't stock ie an engine conversion. it was found that if a certain power wire has not been connected to the ecu then you can tune it all day then turn it off and it won't save the tune.

all good now, He has msgd me and sent the disc rotor, i will send his on monday.

so the stock ecu stops the idle hunting but still has a pop at idle? check and set all the basics too, like TPS, CAS etc