DVS JEZ

Power fc is the best to learn on. Use paulrr33 power fcfaq. Read it a couple of times. Its the best resource fr power fc info. Totune though u need a wideband 02 sensor. 350$ and prefferably fc datalogit 400$. And then some like to use a pyrometer too which can be 300$ish

I use basic. U should watch basic and advanced in realtime. I think advanved is moresensitive. Never really watched yhem together

Haha. Hope not. I have had 2 mates fill the engine up with coolant through the oil cap. Woopsy daisy

put it in gear so the crank doesnt spin. Unless its auto

Ok fitted a 3inch dump and front pipe. Still has 2.5inch catco cat. Then went for a drive to check the tune, had a lean hole in the tune under WOT around peak torque which was causing an increase in the knock count. After richening up where needed the knock didnt go above 9, have increased timing slightly under full throttle and still max knock was 14. When Lachlan gets a 3 inch high flow cat i will recheck and youch up the mixtures. His avcr wont respond to any changes to the boost level. Have tried initialising it. Learning on and off etc. Checked the install and looks ok. The solenoid is clicking when boosting as it should If anyone has any input on thatplease sharr

Your right, the enrichmet needs to be turned off from above 50 degrees

Could have a stuck oil control ring. Is there 1 spark plug that looks different to the rest? Oil build up Or deposits etc on the plug

Yes. Ur tuner will know how to set i up. He will have to tune the boost settings in the dyno or road tune

Fair enough but i dont agree that the it will get the heater working faster. In my car with an oil cooler and a low temp thermostat it runs at 75 degrees on the dyno. I do agree with a blocked radiator it wont cool correctly as u guys have said. But i would still get a nismo low temp and put it in. If the thermostat opens earlier than the coolant can be kept cooler from 62ish degrees instead of reaching 72 degrees and then slowly open and by the time the coolant has cooled and circulated through the motor the temp is up to 80+. If it starts cooling at 62ish then its got a better chance of being kept lower. Yavuz has noticed alot of Interferance with CAS signals on skylines lately. . Do u have a pic of the dyno sheet to show what he means

Haha oh yeah forgot u did that with the breather. I suppose thats 1 way of getting more fuel in the engine without bigger injectors. Haha just let the engine suck it from the fuel tank lol.

Transfer will be fine I change mine depending on driving. If its wet its up pretty high , freeway driving i turn it right down cause i notice the front torque kicks in too easily. normal dry driving i like having the setting around 5 ish. Feels nocer accellerating out of a corner

Try as i said. U dont have to have the bleeder higher i have never done that. Try and keep the bleeder hose in a bottle with asmall amount of fluid at minimum. Empty the bottle if it gets full obviously

Deano when ur s13 fuel pump was dieing and lean popping do u remember if the plugs where sooted up from off boost driving? I think the op said he can see alot of black smoke when its misfiring

U should be pressing F1(start log) then WOT full power run then f2(end log) that way u only log the Wot run. Best way i found is to set up the chart so it views knock and have the afr and a few other gauges in realtime up to the left especially throttle. Then after a logged run or cruising when u are scrollingthrough the chart looking at the logged run u can see exactly what Afr at what throttle position, what knock etc etc. Without the throttle position u will be going backwards adjusting the top right cells. These dont need to be adjusted under decell. And if ur driving at 5500 with light throttle then i would be changing driving styles

Are they all covered exaclty the same? If so that rules out a leaky injector. Then u need to do a pressure or smoke test on the entire intake system from airflow meter to inlet manifold. Just for a quick look if u can check on the fc hand controller in settings and airflow make sure its still set on ur current airflow meter. If theyre stock then it should be on stock. If z32 then on vg30 etc. Its an easy thing to accidently change and sometimes will still run but tune is waay off. If the intake is all sealed up then the dyno is the next best bet. Give ur tuner some new plugs so he can run it up on the rollers with fresh plugs. So let him putt hem i. Just before he runs it.

Why dont u guys like the low temp thermostats? I run one and my car doesnt go over 75 on the dyno. And on the circuit rarely see's 90

Ok matey. Ill get one today. Not a daily driver. Ill let u know what comes out of the filter

theyre only self tuning if you run a wideband 02 sensor connected to the tuning software, and then the tuner needs to know exactly what AFR they want at each load point etc etc. it is good for intial setup but should be touched up on the dyno to suit each individual engine.

get a 110$ nismo thermostat and flush the system then put in new coolant. try upping the idle to 1000rpm and see if it stops the close to stalling issue.

i converted my GTR to caltex E85 4 weeks ago and it hasnt melted yet, havent changed the fuel filter or anything, im running 293kw with 660cc inj at 100%, so make sure you get some pretty big injectors for the power your chasing, E85 smells awesome too, if you dont mind fueling up at only a few servo's and you dont drive your car on long trips i would go for e85, im getting around 320km's to a tank with fairly sensible driving compared to 380 or so with BP98. i didnt see any power gains with my setup due to my N1 turbo's holding it back but i love the $1.05 per litre, and its also the safety margin you get with E85 being 105ish octane

he is very smart so i would believe wat he says. but where does your idle sit at normally? what cooling system mods do you have? has it ever had a cooling system flush etc? i would try upping the idle a little in the power fc hand controller in settings REV/Idle the select the idle should be at around 850ish, if it is try upping it to 1000 and see how that goes. it is common for the ignitor to play up when it gets hot, if you can get one from a mates car to borrow for a day or so so you can see if it happens, but if it doesnt happen to you then its going to be near impossible to diagnose.

Do it, i hate waiting then hurry up and do the rear brake kit, i need to do it before i get my mortgage. please

start again with new fluid if there is still old fluid coming through, as above start the furthest away from the master but this time open the nipple and just keep slowly pumping the pedal all the way to the floor (KEEP TOPPING UP THE FLUID DONT LET IT GO BELOW THE LOW LINE) until the fresh fluid comes through, then do the pump the pedal until hard and while holding pedal pressure down crack the nipple and lock it up before the pedal reaches the floor. do this on all corners as you did. if you by accident let the fluid go below the low line chances are you will have to start again. hope this helps

^^^^ that will keep the neighbours happy

get the 4inch that Ash recomended but try a decat aswell. or if youve still got the old cat punch the guts out and bolt it back in for a quick test