DVS JEZ

no offence but i didnt think i could make it any clearer. have a look at the pics in your 1st post, boost solenoid dark pink----------to-------> dark pink on the avcr master black----------to------------>black on the avcr master boost sensor pink-----------to---------->pink on avcr master white---------to----------->white on avcr master black---------to---------->black on the avcr master

have a look through the turbo results section for 2.6L, also you need to have a good think about what the car is going to be used for and what power you want if you want peak power or lots of midrange, smooth delivery or snap your neck on boost.

i dont get it... run the red-ignition power purple-RPM.injector signal green-ground black-ground gray-throttle signal white-speed signal as stated in your 1st post. and join these at the ecu to correct wires then the boost sensor mounts in your engine bay, run a boost and vacuum line from the inlet manifold to it, then join the pink black and white wires back into the AVCR master screen thats mounted on your dash, solder and insulate , mount the boost solenoid near the turbo but away from excessive heat, run a boost line to the turbo actuator and signal line from the turbo intercooler pipe or similar, run the dark pink and black wires back to the master avcr screen and join solder and insulate.

didnt know there was an internal version???

best to have the filter but can get one later on, just match the colours up to the master loom of the avcr. looking at the pics you posted doesnt look very hard to match the colours

if there is injector pulse than the CAS is ok, the ecu gets its firing order signal for injector and spark from the CAS so if one works then they should both work. you need to check with an LED test light if theres a pulse on the ecu side of the ignitor when cranking, this will tell you if the ecu is sending the signal to the ignitor. it will be very faint when you check it. if there is no pulse here the check at the ecu itself, if there is none here than you might need to try another ecu,

what do you mean it keeps boosting, you mean its overboosting past 7psi or what ever you actuator is set at? have you tried connecting the boost line to the actuator from the cooler pipe or where ever you have it sourced from, this should run stock boost, and you will know if the boost controller is playing up or if its the actuator

k spewin, you could try calling microtech efi technical support but GOODLUCK with that, thats were microtech get all there good reps for beeing able to help and giving you a straight answer

i think you have answered your own question in a way, your showing the pics of the boost sensor- pink, white, and black so connect these to the matching at the master, then boost control solenoid dark pink and black, connect these to there matching at the master, (the black is a common ground so ground all these to the same earth, you need to find an ecu pinout for your engine, then at the ecu connect each wire to the relevent matching wire at the ecu, all the spare wires i wouldnt touch just tape them up unless the pdf says otherwise,

looks programmable BUT whether or not its compatible with an aussie nistune etc,

do you have a hand controller?

u need the usb driver that came with the microsoft software, windows 7 is a pain in the butt and if you connected the ecu and tried to connect without the correct usb driver than your up shit creek and gonna have a hard time getting it to work, sorry to be the bearer of bad news but i had the same issue with the Vi-pec software, i had to use the older usb driver that Vi-pec had. im not sure with mi-corrects but do they have a serial cable coming out then the microsoft adaptor converts it to usb so that you can connect it to the commport of the laptop???

well actually you can adjust each injector individually, depending on what ecu you are using but most these days let you adjust to suit, BUT you need to have exhaust gas temp sensor on each exhaust manifold runner to be able to adjust them correctly

comm port uses usb cable

you need the correct usb driver for your windows.

have you checked every nut and bolt in the suspension and drivetrain? do this and see if the noise has gone

pics of your snorkel you made???

Is it a cheap gauge? Does it sit perfectly on 0 when the cars off

There is NO way in hell the diff can make noises when the car is stationary. The chirping noise will be from the gearbox. If u drift it this will happen after a few clutch kicks. The clicking noise is impossible to diagnose over th net. It could be a few things. Like driveshafts clicking in the cv joints. Or there not tight enough at the wheel bearings. Could be a diff clicking from worn or incorrectly adjusted crown wheel and pinion. Tailshaft worn or loose. Wheels not tight or the balance weights hitting something. Brake calipers not tight. Pads are moving cause theres no shims. Thats all i can think of at the moment. U need to find out exactly when it happens and if it happens everytime or just once out of 10 times

It wont be the lsd. It will be the crown wheel and pinion inside the diff. Mine does it now too.

Is it only when the clutch is in in 1sy and held in for a while? If theres no airleaks causing the idle to drop like u say then the clutch hydraulics might be leaking intrrnally in the master cylinder making it as if u are really slowly letting the clutch out. Check the fluid in the clutch master cylinder. And then try starting the car puttin clutch in in 1st an hold it in 1st for a while and see if the engine revs slowly drop an trys to drive forward

Nice power but it doesnt even sound like a skyline

A quick way to check the water pump is when the radiator cap is off and engine runnin u should be able to see water flowing BUT if ur thermostat is closed and or stays stuck closed then u wont see this. Better off pulling the thermostat out 1st and testing it. U can ever try using the car without a thermostat if u cant get one. But if u use it on the freeway u might have issue with it getting hot cause the wTer flows too fast throughthe radiator to get cooled down enough

yep good gains can be made with cam gears and some trial and error on the dyno while tuning.