DVS JEZ

you still running a fan shroud? it seems like the thermostat might have crapped itself, as said above check its operation, if its dead then you should get a nismo thermostat, on another note is the fan belt still on? water pump ok?

get a new battery or recharge the battery, the alternator might still be ok but the system needs a minimum of 9 volts to work correctly.

check the castor rods, either the bushes are flogged out or the bolt/s loose, but you may aswell retighten all the suspension bolts

WD40 and lots of it, use the gearpuller but the one that holds on by the bolts as mentioned above. the gear pullers are dangerous as they can break the edges of the balancer

Up for sale is a brand new Bosch 044 fuel pump, i bought this brand new for 199 plus delivery, it was supposed to go into my s13 drift/drag car but i ended up selling it to get back into a GTR. i want $180 and that includes delivery australia wide call or sms 0414879711 cheers Jez located on the central coast NSW

I call shotgun PJ. U know ur allowed passengers now at WSID. We might have to lie to them about u running slower than a 11.9 just like u used to keep sneaking in and running under 10.9s

Yeah mine had standard head. Just drop in poncams and cam gears. I havent hadthat car for about 3 years so my memory ofthe lag isnt the best. Just to rub it in guys my current (near stock)GTR has a whopping 285kw and runs 11.7. Just to make u feel glad u spent all that money to gain half a second like i did in my last GTR

are you sure your 200sx weighs 1400kg? sounds too heavy. my s13 was 1165kg.

ok so 370z discs will mount but need custom brackets,but custom brackets are needed anyway, is the piston size the main advantage for brakes? if so is it possible to bore out and run oversized pistons in stock calipers?

im with PJ, most BIG HP cars dont need a surge tank, the stock GTR tank has pretty good baffles anyway, my old S13 Drift and drag car didnt even need a surge tank and it was running 1 walbro with 270kw. my current GTR circuit car is running a walbro without a surge tank, my Old 419kw GTR didnt require a surge tank, and the list goes on. most people run surge tanks cause of the wank factor

get some new injector seals, and check all the fuel hoses that you removed to make sure theyre tight

you mean efficiency? ^^^ T04z should be running a .82 rear housing, mine had a 1.0 rear and was on song at about 4750ish mine made 419KW on 25psi, ive heard stories of ppl making the same power with a .82 and less lag. T88 would be pretty sweet as it ramps onto boost and then fry tires,

ok so firing order was incorrect but the wiring was ok, so how was the firing order wrong? thats pretty decent power

sweet, i found some for $650, what discs are you guys gonna use, come on craved hurry up and find the one peice rotors we need

AGREE 10000%

when are you going to WSID? i wanna come watch the drop in the top end might be cam timing, the tuner might have it setup to help with response but will suffer in the top end a little. my old GTR 419kw had the same little misses your talking about, boost seems to blow the spark out especially 25psi

does the car run? was it running before you took it to the workshop? i would get a 2nd hand motor from a wreckers or on this forum, will work out heaps cheaper, and wont take long to do, building a motor sounds all well and good, i have 4g i want pistons 1200 headgasket 300 all the little gaskets etc 100+ bearings 300, machine work 2500 and then the killer is labour, taking it in and out 400 ish, building the motor 1000. adds up really quickly, trust me

These parts can be rough as aslong as the plastic isnt broken. I need- both door trims rear trims trims above and around front + rear side windows cheers Jez 0414879711

exactly what Brembos did you get? i might have a look for some, did that include discs?

BOV's are on the drivers side, the boost controller should be near the turbo's somewhere, so the vacuum line is not from the boost controller to the BOV's, but the boost controller should have its source from the throttle bodys so it reads VAC aswell as boost, Just remove the boost controller and run the pressure line sourced from the inlet manifold to the stock actuators, when you do a road test do a couple of light runs in 3rd or 4th gear and monitor the boost levels, it shouldnt go above 10ish psi, if it keeps rising recheck your hose going to the actuators as it might be the wrong one,

02 sensor is in open loop when cold right? so shouldnt be affecting it

its a mental thing i reckon, put the car on a dyno and see if the tractive effort is different on cold engine with/without a warm up idle, i reckon it will be the same

??? Mobil is closing down???

i ran 10.98 @ 130.7 mph with 405awkw, on old street tyres, federal 595s. and worn out os giken clutch, last week with 285kw stockis R32 GTR just power fc,exh, steel wheel turboes, 3/4 tank of fuel, spare wheel, jack, all interior in etc ran 11.7 @ 118mph on my 2nd run, got booted out cause i didnt want to renew my ANDRA licence, i spent over 45g on my last GTR to get 10.98, my new GTR i have spent maybe 4g, big difference in costs to get from mid 11s into the 10s oh and i didnt mean to start a big war on rwkw to awkw

good work, its definately got a 10 in it with a good driver