DVS JEZ

just keep undoing stuff to gain access to the last manifold nuts, will have to take off the water and oil lines to turbo before trying to remove the turbo

so did anyine find out where this jjr bypass actually go. i just got one, i have installed the lock bar and tried to fit the bypass to the rear solenoid but it definatley doesnt go there, i havent checked the fron solenoid or power steer pump yet, i ran out of daylight

drop the exhaust before the cat and see if its melted at all. we had a s13 sr20 loose 40kw.he put on a supposedly high flowing cat which we found out was a cheapie, and was really restricting flow, putting in a decat and testing made the power gain the 40kw back. just food for thought.

they must be failing.... so you should sell the whole brake kit to me cheap and you get some newer bigger brakes

good results on e85, do you realise you are running and extra 4 psi with the e85 tune? maybe thats why you had low power on 98.

issue is the knuckle design, im not 100% sure on this, if there is a conversion part or not

there are rear toe arms to suit non hicas silvia's, check out just jap or ISC drift shop etc

i recommend Kaixen brand. i got a kit from KZ Autoimports(sau forum trader on here) for $235, it plugged straight in with no issues, looks pro as

on the topic of stock airbox i think Steve N1 GTR made near 600hp with stock box but really good filter. when you say struggles what do you mean? are you sure the stock rubber intake piping isnt sucking in restricting the flow? take the car to the track and see what 1/4 mile time it does and what trap speed, this will help answer your questions. or do what i do and drive a slow ass truck all day then go for a drive in the GTR and you will think its crazy fast.

HAHAHA. ive rebuilt 1 RB26 stock rods and crank t04Z 419kw 4 yrs ago still going strong. also had a SR20 with nitto parts 280kw ran 11.03 still going strong but only done low k's but not a streeter. on a side note, the motors that fail as per nickr33 and some of my mates are built cheaply, but ofcourse even the best and expensive parts will only work if assembled correctly

what ecu are you using? sounds like the idle air valve is playing up if its idling like that.

how long has this car been in the build?

have u changed anything lately? is it stock ecu?

did u use new coilpacks or 2nd handies? does it miss at idle at all? pull the plugs back out and see what colour they are and if they are all evenly coloured. this will tell u if the problem is in 1 or more cylinders, if its only 1 then it might be injector, spark plug coilpack etc, if its all then could be airflow meter or sensor etc

yes can replace tie rods easily, most wheel aligners will have the specs for the wheel alignment

k, start with sway bar, but if the car is unknown condition then i would be checking absolutely everything under there

kk, check it out and let us know,

have you checked/changed the spark plugs, intercooler pipes airflow meter piping, checked timing, is it using lots of fuel, blowing any smoke? checked air filter? change fuel filter?

it is best to have it or you can put an adjuster screw onto the throttle body to hold the throttle open slightly, this is a bodgy way as there is no adjustment for idle up during air con, lights on etc put it in an easily accessible place that looks neat/ hidden. you will need to be able to run the hose from it to the intercooler pipe just before the throttle body

buy a comodore for family car have you tried adding boost? if its a built motor... is it a really safe tune? does it knock/ping at all or can timing be added?

yeah id remove the sump, take the caps off the rods and check them out, see if its more than 1 failing, if you cant find anything wrong there then remove the main caps 1 at a time and check the bearings there too, refit it before removing the next one. if you find a failed bearing you need to try determine what caused it, might need to measure the crank to see if its the correct size for the bearing used. talk to your machinist that machined the engine for rebuild to see what they think caused it. if nothing is found get some new bearings, what brand did you use? maybe try a different brand. i wouldnt drive it anymore or the cost of a new gasket for the sump and some big end bearings might turn into and new crank

under the inlet manifold there is a vineyard of black vacuum hoses. have a really good look, even use a mirror, its to coincidental that you changed the oil then this happened, the reason i asked it you used a tool is this would make more sense if you pulled a hose off

check out all the little black rubber hoses near the oil filter, get a good light down there and you might find a hose off, did you use a ratchet or oil filter removal tool?

my old 419kw 32 GTR with T04Z ran 10.98 on street tyres. my mates 370kw GTR with -5s ran 10.89 on street tyres. on the street his would beat mine almost every where. IMO big single is for dyno queen, external gate is for showing off. must admit i do miss the sound. so different uses and benifits for each setup, each to their own, no point asking everyone on the internet which is better for their personal car because every one has their own opinions.