DVS JEZ

have u even read any other topics in forced induction this morning? the one below urs shows a r34 2.7L making 1014 HP with Nitto everything http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ni...we-t334850.html

awesome results. it is E85 but it is CSR E85 (108ron)

is markie from dat performance driving it on the dyno?

any one know who stocks the tierods and tie rod ends for rear steering? its for a r32 GTR, oh and by the way just jap in sydney sell a double banjo for the hydraulic lines, this save trying to find wat thread to block the holes etc, its only $40

you need to determine where the freeplay is exactly. jack it up and get some one to turn the wheel in the freeplay back and forth and check everything, what colour is the powersteer fluid? is it burnt?

its just harmonics at those revs, do you have stock engine mounts? if not then this will add to the vibrations. the knock is harder, jack it up safely and check every nut and bolts, and check out the bushes while your under there

get a decent aftermarket oil pressure gauge. its very common for the stock sender and gauge to play up, my stock gauge reads almost 0 but my aftermarket gauge is reading fine

put a RB20 turbo on it, my mates is running this in competition and its responsive as

yep, get a 3inch bellmouth dump pipe

it sounds a bit deep for valve train. unless its cam thrust, that has a similar noise, but valve train would be there all the time not only under load. the rods however get greater forces under load.

definately has a bearing type knock not a pinging sound and is wierd how it only does it under load, how rich is it when it ramps up and makes the sound? my 2 cents is bearing knock but in early stages and needs load to be evident

u can doo iiit

I left mine alone. How did u formulate ur injector size and latency ?

I run ku36s on my Gtr for straight line work theyre not too good. Especially when cold.

Dont get any of the above tyres.1 and only drag\street tyreis mickey thompson et street. Can get it in many sizes. My silvia ran 11.03 131mph 1.65 60 ft.

Agreed. Oil in cooler pipes doesnt always mean blown turbo seals. Clean it all out and get a catch can from rocker covers.

as much as we dont want the engine to run with a stuffed bearing, you really need to start it up and see if it has oil pressure then turn it off straight away, we have smashed the same 450kw engine 2 times, 1 at the drags in 4th gear across the line at 8500rpm and one doing 3rd gear burnout at 9000rpm, both were N1 oil pump failures, had to bite the bullet and get a tomei after that. so i wouldnt put it past a N1 oil pump failing on you but because the car was driven home im sure you would have noticed the knock then. another possibility is after the machine work how well did you clean the block down and the head down? this is Extremely important and alot of 1st time builders over look it thinking the machine shop would have cleaned it correctly before giving it back. when you drop the oil from the engine take a little sample and get it checked. your much better off finding out exactly what caused it so you can prevent it from happening again.

because you said it was ok then got worse it is a Hydraulic issue, either master cylinder is leaking internally or the slave playing up, normally the slave will have an external leak

i ended up getting a 2nd hand box for $600, i just used that and its still running sweet. you can get exchange boxes off ebay, but NO warranty if your car is not 100% stock. ps your car looks like mine

Agreed +1

Get it on a dyno

take the injectors out and get them flow tested and cleaned, if there is crap in them they might not be spraying correctly

if omoni is a jap ecu then get a new ecu quicksmart, jap ecu's are not the best for aussie fuels and conditions. 500hp is a big goal, you will kill your engine if it has stock internals, read through the turbo results section for RB25 to decide which turbo is right for your driving use and power goal, will need better fuel pumps, injectors etc. will be a T4 highmount turbo so new exh manifold, dump pipe down to the cat to match your existing exh. new intake pipe from the pod to the turbo, new cooler piping from the highmount turbo, new water and oil lines and oil return for the turbo, new ecu and tune,

low boost just turn the dial all the way anti clockwise should read 0 then press the dial in to lock the setting. then set to high boost according to the manual then turn the dial till it reads 10 then press the dial to lock the setting, road test carefully and watch wat your aftermarket boost gauge reads, if it goes higher than 13 back off straight away and lower the setting remembering to press the dial to lock the setting, if it doesnt go to 13 then turn the dial clockwise to raise the setting, do this in increments of 5 to 10 depending how close the boost is to 13 and press the dial to lock in the setting, be careful when road testing and have a good look at your boost gauge too. without a dyno or some one that knows how i wouldnt set the gain or start boost just yet, so your car might be a bit laggier than it could be till these are set up.

louder exhaust,