DVS JEZ

put it on the dyno and see if they can see the flat spot, this will tell you where and what it is. ( might be a lean spot or a rich spot etc)

get a programmable ECU and tune it out

need some stock rubber intakes from airbox to turbos for my R32 GTR PM, SMS, CALL 0414879711 cheers Jez

cut the black yellow wire where its easily accessible near the relay, then run a new wire to the fuel pump. but before you do this disconnect the fuel pump and see if it still blows the fuse

wowsers trousers, good luck with sale, these things looks friggen awesome.

the little intermittant pops at idle are common, all my cars have done it, never really worried about it,

thats a weird one, is the noise from the clutch area or back of the car? never heard of an exedy clutch having problems. but you never know without hearing the noise in person its a guessing game. so take it to your mechanic or a gearbox specialist and get them to diagnose it. Did you get the engine and gearbox package from a wreckers? or privately? did it come with warranty?

have you chosen a Turbo setup yet? what diff ratios are you going to run and what gearbox? running 4.3 diff will help alot when it comes to response especially out of corners, The supra in the vid seems to have short gears which helps minimise lag into the next gear. oh and let me know when its done im definately coming to eastern creek when your car is done

ok so whats the problem? is it that the dip stick pops out, or the oil pressure gauge goes up when the revs increase? (which is normal)

will be input shaft bearing, very common. All my gearboxes have done it after a couple of clutch dumps, i have never broken a gearbox due to the input shaft bearing being noisy, so its an annoying noise but not a problem throw out bearing is only in contact and spinning when the clutch pedal is pressed, doing this stops the input shaft spinning so the noise goes away.

not good unfortunately. hopefully the engine builder doesnt mind fixing engines under warranty. good luck with him

ive been msging Brad lately, definately knows wat he is talking about, biggest problem is that most people want a lowered street car that looks good but then wants race car handling, i am one of these people. worst part before tackling these setups is having all the adjustable arms and decent coilovers(big expense).

haha

gonna need almost a full strip down to check and replace. the oil filter is a wierd one, wat oil filter is it? Z145a? or something else.

turn headlights on and then try and crank it. see if they dim. if you can get access to the starter motor u will see where there is the main nut that the power goes too and then the little electrical tab that the start signal goes too. take the little start signal wire off and check with a test light to see if the wiring is getting power when the key is turned to crank, if not than there is a wiring issue. while your at the starter motor get a screwdriver and short the main power terminal with the start signal tab, do this carefully and only touch it quickly then take it off, this should make the starter kick in and crank the engine, this will tell you the starter is ok. let me know

my GTR has to be tuned with the hand controller too, trust me my tuner HATES doing it with the hand controller but the datalogit doesnt connect with all POWER FC's. mine is an older model FC i think. nothing wrong with tuning with the hand controller its just more time consuming and more fiddly going in and out of menu's

If the boost line is ok. Might be the wastegate fouling on the 2 into 1 dump pipe. Might have to pull the exhaust off at the turbo to check it

Was it ur rear turbo that popped. Was it a stock turbo? They are prone to breaking the exhaust wheel off or siezing. They get extremely hot and detonation shatters the ceramic turbine off. I dont think flutterz killed ur turbo. Especially with stock bov's.

they have issues with the solder joints drying out and breaking, if u still have issue, pry it open and have a look

reason for sale? how many k's did the previous owner do with them?

waaay too expensive buddy, just a heads up

thinking of the speed source for the ETS. it has to be from the wheel speed sensors otherwise it wont be able to sense wheel spin

Vipec ecu, stock size pump feeding a 3l swirl pot then a bosch 044 or two if ur worried about it, then into a twin entry fuel rail to keep pressure at the injectors more even. Run a fuel cooler on the return line so when not on boost all that fuel going through the hot fuel rail and back to the tank constantly gets a chance to cool. Havent tried those injectors. I was running sard 800cc's with a single 044 with my last GTR rb26 T04Z making 419kw with no issues. And on a side note because ur budget is not an issue u can build my new car aswell

Some engines breath heavier then others. Especially at 23 psi with a 35r. Not worth worrying about it. Could put a drain back to the sump from the catch can. Have u done any oil control mods when u built the motor? One of the main issues with a bit of blow by is the fuel vapour breaking down the oil which then doesnt lubricate as it should. So try not to miss an oil change or maybe even change it more frequently. Obviously ur running forged pistons which when cold are even worse at sealing in compression. So let it warm up to operating temp, not just water temp but oil aswell, before u boost it at all.

let us know how it goes