DVS JEZ

technically maybe, but i would never try that, i have always noticed that when cold starting most viscous fans actually engage and you can hear them roar for maybe 30 seconds, whats the main reason you want to get rid of the engine fan marko???

yep sure can.

theres no lifters, but there can be excessive clearance in the shims, but its constant, just start getting some prices together, you have to pull the motor out either way by the sounds of it, now the debate whether you get a 2nd handy or fix your current motor with the option of a rebuild

check that coil pack loom, and where it matches to the auto loom. let us know how you go

its very possible. check youtube for other spun bearings and compare to yours. try avoid running it much more. get the sump off and replace the bearings. you might be lucky that it hasnt damaged the vrank yet. and might be just a quick r+r.

good answer smitty 33 wat rpm does it idle at? i agree with putting the stock bov on

if the heads off just get the caps to suit, shouldnt cost much

yeah because different injectors will stop power going to the ignition coils there is 3 wires into the ignition coil. one will be thicker. this should be the ignition power. you should be able to check the other 2 colour and see 6 of them that match at the ecu(loom) these should have pulses when cranking, but you can only check with a led test light. if there is no power to any of these wires when ignition on then there is your problem. get a multi meter and see if the thick ones all have continuity to each other. if they do and theres no power, try tapping into one of the thick wires and put a temporary 12v feed straight from the battery, then try cranking it again. see if it starts

have you measured it yet???

agreed^^^looks different to my vipec one but you never know

2 air filters

take off your old comp rings and keep in order of cylinder, carefully put them in there matching cylinder and check the ring gaps, you will also be able to see if the bore marks are out of round, this is not accurate you still need to measure with a bore gauge

are the marks on the pistons where the skirts are??? this is the largest part of the piston, i reckon the piston to bore clearance was too tight, another possibility is the pistons have swelled during an extreme heat session, big burnout, too many hard laps on circuit etc.

the guy i bought my car off cooked the old motor by running thermo's instead of the clutch fan. dont think he had a shroud but, if you make a proper shroud and not a dodgy one, one that directs 100percent of the airflow through the radiator and a decent controller with 1 big thermo the same size as a factory fan than it should work,

any more pics and updates Geoff, im in love with this build

still for sale, 16,500. sorry to the guys that rang and left a msg, i just got back from thailand,

thanks status, iwill pull it off tommorow.

i know how to bleed it normally, BUT what does this mean???

i have tried adjusting aac, disconnecting aac, screw on ecu, vaccuum leaks, adjusting the throttle stops etc etc. i found that disconnecting the throttle linkages the idle dropped to 850rpm, so i kept engine running and adjusted the linkages so the idle didnt change, then i adjusted the aac valve screw to bring idle to 950rpm.

tried adjusting the clutch? there is an adjustment on the pushrod where the pedal goes to the master cylinder, loosen the nut and wind the pushrod into the master a little then tighten the nut. dont over adjust it but. or the clutch might slip. as long as there is a little freeplay on the pedal it will be sweet

i bought the car 3 weeks ago buddy and havent had the plenum off... i fixed the high idle problem but, it was the throttle linkages.

was chasing a high idle issue on my 32 GTR, went to bleed the coolant system, took the air bleed screw out and nothing happened, tried forcing water in the radiator with a hose, nothing came out, tried hose into the air bleed hole. nothing, got an air blower attached to compressor, nothing, its completely blocked, i have no idea why it would be blocked, any one had this problem or have any suggestions on this issue. on a side note, the high idle issue- i tried winding the idle all the way down with the aac valve, still up at 1600rpm, tried unplugging it, checked for vaccuum leaks etc tried the idle screw on the ecu etc etc, no luck. i took off the throttle linkages and then the engine idled at 850rpm, found that 2 of the linkages were adjusted too tight, i adjusted them with the engine running so it didnt change the idle, then i adjusted the idle up to 950rpm with the aac valve screw. cheers Jez

still got doors, boot and rear tail lights. everything else sold cheap

are you measureing to the ground? or to the centre of the wheel etc? check tyre pressures too

PM sent SoFly