DVS JEZ

did you take the engine fan off? what controls the thermo fan?

just buy cheap bosch plugs, if you gapped the iridiums you might have cracked the tips, get bosch cheapies

lol, go easy on him buddy, your best bet is to get an aftermarket gauge or somebody to check the oil pressure for you until youo get a gauge, my oil gauge was right up because of the different resistances in the sender units,

dont check the oil when the motor is running, only check it after it has been turned off and sitting for at least a minute, who wired up the Rb25 into your 31, you would of had to change the sender or fit an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, my 31 oil gauge was off the scale all the time and the oil light on, edit: my 31 had rb25det as well, which i fitted and wired

do you know about the crank drive? if your unsure when you get the pulley and oil pump off, take a pic of the crank where the oil pump was and some one will tell you. good luck getting it all off

k, i recommend trying it without the heat 1st if you havent already, oxy would be the last resource, question- does your crank already have the wide crank oil pump drive?

i had the same issue but was my 1st gear, bad news for you is that u will either have to pull box down or get another one,

just try the wd40 and the 2 pry bars

there is 2 threaded holes in the front of the pulley, get a puller kit that will use 2 bolts, but it will probably break the bolts so when you have it tensioned get 2 pry bars behind the pulley and carefully work it off, use wd40 on the inside of the pulley as well. not fun to do aye?

my car has a different turbo setup but thought i would gilve ,my 2 cents, found with stock cams my car was making 321awkw and then with poncams 260 9.15's went up to 344awkw, boost was came on sooner with more midrange and topend torque/power, was quite happy with the results, will be good to see the setups you guys have and see the differences in power with/without cams,

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from memory you used a 1.5mm gasket right? you just need more boost so you can make up the compression. if its down 30psi just screw 30psi of boost into it. lol

thanks Dave, i learnt that one the hard way, All good now, changed the plugs as 4 were cracked, going great again, but with slight tappet noise from cyl 6

check the actual plugs them selves. i just got my GTR running, missfiring like hell, checked plugs, NGK R's found 4 of them were cracked, must have been a bad batch,

yeah stock afmeters have been good to me for 416.9kw so far.. skylines are hassles to keep running right, fix one thing then about 100000000 other things go wrong(slight over exageration)

yeah i know, theyre nothing but.. got it going yesterday arvo, no leaks or anything, but got a tappet noise at cylinder 6, which is where repco machine shop put in my new valves, not happy because the clearances havent been set right, i hate engine noises, makes you look bad when your driving, done about 18ks now, make sure you dont lie underneath the starter motor when you unbolt it, cause the coolant puddles on it and then when it moves it goes all over you(as i found out yesterday) lol

i wish this was mentioned about 2 weeks ago...... DAMMIT. would have saved me some money

make sure there are no air leaks after the AFMeters, it will cause the exaxt same problems

just put my engine back in for the 2nd time as i had an issue with the valves,(dont ask) put it all back in this week, just needed oil and a spark plug as my mate dropped it, started putting coolant in and opened the bleeder up, blah blah blah, noticed a big puddle of coolant on top of inlet port 1, thought it wass the orings so i put some new ones in, tried it again...... turns out that the brand new tomei metal inlet gaskets i put in 5/6 are good but the 1 inbetween the head and the inlet is leaking, GRRRRRRRRRR. not keen on pulling the motor out again just to do that, Have any of you Guys used metal gaskets on teh inlet? Did you use sealant as well? Jeremy

you can get cheap manifolds, i paid 450 for RB26 single To4 split pulse manifold and 50mm external gate, has held up to 416.9kw so far. its on EB*Y

yeah the black is double coated i think, it is supposed to withstand around 1000degrees C.

nissan didnt design the engines to run at max rpm for a long time, as in curcuit drag or drift work, this process has been done many times by alot of engine builders with no bad outcomes or effect, some ppl say that a quic bandaid fix is to just fill the oil up to the hump on the dipstick...

my mate has just opened a shop and does ceramic coating, inside and out, he did my xspower manifold and rear turbo housing, he does a really good job, he is starting to do coloured coatings as well, i can ask him on prices for each part to be coated, he is on the central coast. cheers Jeremy

have been upgrading my RB26 to help with the oil control issues, finished a design that a mate and i made up today, note that the tail end goes to the rear turbo drain in the block, can be teed into it, but cause im running a single it was unused anyway, sorry bout the small pics, i will try and get some bigger ones, they were taken with a fone, cheers Jeremy Attached image(s)

Just thought id share this with you guys and girls. have been upgrading my RB26 to help with the oil control issues, finished a design that a mate and i made up today, note that the tail end goes to the rear turbo drain in the block, can be teed into it, but cause im running a single it was unused anyway, sorry bout the small pics, i will try and get some bigger ones, they were taken with a fone, cheers Jeremy