DVS JEZ

A leak down test is best as the pressurizes the cyli der and u can test if the valves are leaking ie the valve that has more clearance, normally this is due to a foreign object, slightly bent valve or a valve seat that has moved but doesnt have to be one of those. Did the engine idle smoothly?

Unfortunately the owner lied to u. The.noise at 3000rpm is a big end bearing issue, do not drive the car anymore, the engine will have to be pulled out, sump taken off, crank out and inspected, rods inspected, new bearings put in and te clearances checked, depending how long the knock has been there, hopefully the crank and rods are still ok. U would have finished it off doing a run in the hills, RB series motors have issue's with oil starvation, and hills are the worst for it if the engine isnt setup with baffling, enlarged oil returns, extra oil in the sump etc. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news

Has the car been driven yet? The lifters can. Be a pain to get to pump up sometimes, and may need to be driven for a bit before they will quiten up completely

Dont worry about internals until u need them. Put E85 and more boost in.

Did u do a comp or leakdown test? Curious if the cylinder is down abit

Make Sure the throttle screw is set and the TPS is set correctly. If the tps is incorrect the ecu wont run the idle maps

Leave the bonnet up and get some one to turn the steering. Have a listen and see if the pump is making the noise

Yes this is a common issue in r34. Because the ac has a hot feed from memory. I hvent had to fix one but i do know of it. Have a look at the link instruction manual. There is a section at the end that explains what to do

Thats a massive Difference Between dyno's

Crazy.

Do it in the morning buddy. But its on the front of the inlet manifold. Its a 10mm bolt on its own little pipe bolted to inlet

When it cools down. Take radiator cap off then top it up as u take the air bleed screw out. Ince a constant flow of water cones out of bleed screw put screw back in. Then start car and leave radiator cap off. Turn heater on fan speed 2, Keep topping up water if it goes down. Let car run for a few minutes till u see coolant flowing and the water in the radiator feels warm ie thermostat open. Then put radiator cap on, drive around for a few Minutes. Let it cool and top up if necessary.

But i like pulling my knob off ....

Not too hard buddy. U will also need to use the rb20 tps otherwise send the ecu to nistune to get it reprogrammed to suit the 25. What happened to the 20?

Did u connect a boost line to the wastegate? Are u running a boost gauge? Sounds like uve been running alot more than 5psi

How much boost have u been running

Where are u located? pm me for a labour price if ur Interested and localish to me.

Is the noise consistantly there at 2500-3000rpm when hot and cold? I wouldnt be rebuilding the motor until it gets worse. If it does at all.

Send me the bin and log file

Did u chec those silicone joiners? Make sure they are tight and have a good feel that they dont have any splits or holes. Make sure the piping hasnt rubbed through where it goes through the battery tray

Check the engine oil. Also get the mechanic to check the idler bearings etc for the timing belt are ok

Since nobody has said this already. Chek the spark plugs

If the noise dissapears after the oil pressure builds up ie a few seconds after starting then it will likely be the lifters. Try a nissan oil filter as Scott mentioned as these have anti drain back so the filter stay full and helps oil flow when cold. I always use hpr 10 without issue's on nissans. If the engine starts knocking at 3000rpm then i would say its big end bearing wear

Did they do a wet comp test aswell? This would have told u if it is rings etc

Both are very high quality gates. I havent ha a gate "wear out" only the cheap evay gates are a little dodgy as the valves dont seat 100% and theres too much play in the valve guide