I need to spend less time on SAU and more time tuning my drifter aye
Been flat out with work. As u all know customers come first before my own cars. Well unless theres a race meet on.
Thats correct coupe.
The light blue run was when the dyno was playing up but it was reading the dyno correctly just not controlling the steady state.
I have tuned this car in the other (mainline) dyno and it made 232kw but has a different cat since then
Here is a 34 i just finished tuning. Did a run before poncams and then tuned it after poncams.
Is running G3 older spec. This is with profec B spec 2 set to 0 but helping with holding top end (basically gate pressure)
Tao has sent a 14psi actuator that we will fit so can tune a low boost.
I tried more boost with this setup but kept nosing over and for the extra amount of boost there wasnt enough gain.
It saw 281kw with a bit more midrange on 21psi.
Tried advancing and retarding exhaust gear with no gain. So left at 0.
Also tried dropping the exhaust which automatically raised the boost to 20psi and made 281kw
I had my GTR at wakie and the needle was on the empty line. I had my eyes on the afr all day like a hawk. And was all good.
32 tanks are different though
What sort of mods did u do to the cradle?
I did mine last week also. Thought it was pretty straight forward. Trim the top of plastic. Then hose clamp it onto the existing half plastic mount.
I always use walbro and am yet to have a failure
I would love to put it on but some one (BSA) tripped on the serial cable and broke my usb to serial Brainbox for the dyno.
Dyno has been out since Dori's car
There is different ecu mods for each model. And Matt would have modded it to series 2 as u told him.
Few Q's.
Have u tried the A/C to see if the engine idles up?
Is there an ignitor on top of motor at the back?
Are u sure ur car isnt a series 1.5. R33 are tricky when it comes to z32 ecu.
Will be easy enough to sort out mitcho.
Does the car drive or is it in limp mode?