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DVS JEZ

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Everything posted by DVS JEZ

  1. Ive never had any drama's. U have to cut the bottom of the bracket off though and use a hose clamp to mount the pump theye bracket
  2. R33's are tricky to get an 040 setup at the correct height, research it first, or try a walbro which uses the stock filter and mount
  3. Run a 7 heat range. Also theres a good chance u will get a missfire with 1.1mm gap. Try it first but be prepared to drop the gap to .9-.8mm
  4. Be a good idea for the sake of a few hundred
  5. Very likely to be hitting rich and retarded mode. Or the fuel pump is being lazy
  6. Link manual states its common to T into the FPR, and NOT to use bov etc lines
  7. Check that ur so called mates havent hard wired ur fuel pumps on. Where are u located? U could unplug the power fc to see if the pumps stay on or not
  8. Post it up.
  9. Shotgun a passenger ride
  10. Timing tables can be used as a guide only, if u give people a timing table to run and it pops the engine it can be pointed to u. Exhaust and intake restrictions can cause low power due to being knock limited, but once the restiction is resolved more timing/power can be made. I understand what ur trying to do but tread lightly with it. Q. The low powered G3, did they try dropping the exhaust to check for a restriction? What else was done to diagnose the low power? Did they try a much lower boost ?
  11. Man that is awesome.
  12. TAO this is not a very good thing to do, how can an ignition map show u which tuner to go to? But on this we need to know which part of the map each car is using. Sarge my brand new Dyno Dynamics dyno should be at my place next week
  13. Did they do the assembly or u? Never assume machine shops clean things. Most time u will and should clean everything before assembly. Do the test as above to isolate the noisy cylinder, Last time were all the earings marked or only a few?
  14. Thats the problem with chinese whispers. Thanks for showing the truth
  15. Sweet. U should run it on the dyno to help diagnose the issue
  16. Ok im thinking the turbo's are steel wheeled. Similar to -7's. Even if they arent it should still make the power. Are u 100% sure the AFM's are stock. The nismo's are in a stock size casing so they are bolt on. 6 heat range is fine but 7 is better to help prevent pre ignition. Who worked all this out for u? Have u tried changing cam timing?
  17. Do a run without the cat. Letely i have not yet found a cat that performs to my expectations. Last night was an R33 knock limited at 188kw, dropped/gutted the cat and made 202kw safely. Tonight was an s13 188kw 23psi. Then dropped/gutted cat and tuned to 234kw on 21psi. NB: both these cars are race only so catalytic converters are not needed. I do not recommend running no cat on the road as its ILLEGAL i dont do anything illegal
  18. When u do the knock sensor bypass u should do it at the ecu, wire in the resistor then ground the other end of the wire
  19. They take alot of meat out of the block to fit the 3.4 stroker. Have heard of a few blocks not holding up for long. Have u tested one before? Only what i have been told never seen
  20. I work on this car and can say it is extremely nice to drive and feels very tight compared to alot of skylines i work on. Perfect daily driver and weekend warrior
  21. Nice results buddy, how does it feel to drive, does it chirp 2nds
  22. Nice, im very curious to see if the block stays together with the 3.4
  23. I had a guy try to tell me he made 608hp on 28psi with a built 25 And 3076.
  24. which earth lead do you mean? theres one that goes to the engine mount bracket then the chassis then the battery?
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