«Cyph3r»

Anyone going overseas to watch any of the 2011 races?

Would love to help out by supplying an s14 but mine is off the road for a while. If you get them happening, how much would I be looking at for a bolt in half cage and what is the cost of a weld in half? I had a look at the weld ins in your gallery, how much more space generally is there around the b pillars and roof for your bolt in jobs?

reshell. 32's are cheap nowdays.

If it's going to be a track car and you really want to be safe in an accident instead of just adding body rigidity, go to meridian motorsport or bond or the likes and look at get something welded in. Anywhere should be able to discuss budget and what points you want picked up and give you a price from there.

Hi jon, Just waiting to hear back about some 33 assemblies and price on them before I decide what to grab. Btw, where abouts are you located? Cheers Jamie

PM sent, let me know how you go. I just talked to Ryan and he has two sets of 32 LCA's

Think about what you just said for a second. Offset of the wheel does not effect brake clearance. As old mate said it's about the face type and the spoke design along with the thickness of the centre of the wheel. The spacer is not changing the offset of the wheel at all, only the effective offset. If you bought a 17x9j +15 Nismo LM GT in the same face as you have now, I guarantee they'd foul the brakes as well. That is why wheel manufacturers offer different face types to clear big brakes, offset is all just to do with backspacing (coilover clearance) and guard clearance/fitment. edit: can't spell

Hi all, After some advice regarding BMC options to use on my S14 non-abs brake conversion. I am fitting some Z33 Track Brembos front & rear (identical to r34 gtr aside from rear caliper mounting points). I have been trying to work out what BMC to use to both retain a standard pedal feel and fix the brake bias. BM50 are available in non-abs from an r32 v-spec. BM57 are only available in rhd config with abs but will apparently fit if I get a t piece made for the front lines to split off the one port which i figure will be neater than running them round to the opposite side if I use a lhd bmc. What is going to give the best bias and pedal feel? Cheers Jamie

Hi Noel, Josh said he thought you might have handbrake setup for a 33 last time I was talking to him. Do you still have one sitting around? All I'm after is cables, drums, backing plates etc as I already have z33 calipers. If you don't want to seperate let me know price for whole lot. Cheers Jamie

Hi all, Chasing the drum handbrake assembly from either an r32 gtr/gtst; r33 gtst; z32; z33 or r34 gtt Let me if you have one that you want to sell or know of somewhere selling one for a reasonable price. Cheers Jamie

The R34 and Z33 front calipers are identical. To fit either front caliper to an R33/32 S13/14/15 you need to either have a thread insert put into the caliper to reduce the size of the thread by 2mm or drill out the knuckle on the car you're fitting them to.

Just to add to what is still interesting to watch, I can no longer get excited about F1. As a kid growing up I used to always look forward to watching Senna race back when they weren't over aero'd cars with a steering wheel full of driving aids. I still find the v8 supercars good to watch on the street circuits and think that the racing in it is as good as it's ever been. Nascar is good fun to watch on the road circuits as it's actually hilarious watching some of the lines the guys take through the corners. It's just a shame the commentators are so unbearable. BTCC is usually pretty good to watch as the drivers are a lot more agressive than some of the other series making it entertaining to watch imo. Also the races aren't too long so everyone is trying to move up as quickly as they can usually. I'm definitely in agreeance that they shouldn't allow more aero aids as while it may significantly reduce lap times its most likely going to reduce the quality of racing and make it less entertaining to watch.

DTM Opel DTM Merc DTM Audi DTM are easily distinguishable from one another still, NASCARs all look the same to me...... as far as I can tell they might even be all the same shell with just different head and tail lights

9.5's arent going to be anywhere near too wide. Even 10s fit easy to a 32 with no guard work required. I put 19x9.5+11's on a 32 recently and they fit pretty well at the back with stock camber and slight tire stretch. For the track running a square tire you will probably either need camber arms or a slight pull to fit them all round or else run 4wd ride height.

radiator looks nice, eco or super micro? Yahoo jp?

Thanks guys, I'll pass on the suggestions. A bit more info: Crank was balanced by someone that has plenty of experience. Forged pistons and rods were used. Both pump gears and the collar were bought from JPC to avoid possible issues with collar/gear tolerances. When the crank was pulled they checked the grub screws on the collar to make sure the collar hadn't moved. It was all still good and hadn't moved since assembly. I have been told that it was hard to remove from the crank and that the collar had almost fused itself to the inner gear.

Couldn't agree more, the road circuits are always amusing though. Some of the guys take the most rubbish lines when it's not an oval track

Hi, Posting up question for a mate. He is running the following parts: Balanced RB30 Crank w/ machine press fitted crank collar Ross Harmonic Balancer N1 Oil Pump JPC Billet Gears This is what it looks like after only 5000k's. This siezed the motor completely. Once the oil pump was taken off it turned over. Anyone had similair problems as this is the second set of oil pump gears that has been destroyed? After the first time he fitted the balancer and upgraded to billet gears as he wanted to make sure it didn't do another oil pump. Any suggestions on what could be the problem? Cheers Jamie

Am I the only one that had trouble reading this? Try to use some decent grammar mate, your post sounds like it was typed by someone with ADD.

I'd use a haltech before either of the OP's options. Power FC's are decent but as far as japanese ecu's go the F Con V Pro's are a much better option. (Limited tuners available in australia though) There is plenty of good ecu's available in australia now though and as everyone else has said I'd find the tuner that you want to do your car and ask them what they recommend for the application. Power FC only being able to store one map at a time and not having aux outputs was a dealbreaker for me.

I got my ATI balancer brand new delivered from the US for cheaper than a Ross would have cost locally. $500 to my door for the ATI vs $572 + delivery for the Ross Full Metal Jacket. Both will do the job, just see what you can get the best price on. My mates running a Ross on his Tomei RB28 without drama, Godzilla motorsport drag car runs an ATI and that thing revs like crazy...

I have run Serck (sp?) and Setrab oil cooler cores without problem, I think these are probably just as good if not better than the cores that come in most jap kits. Also just ran rubber hose of the non braided type. Works out a lot cheaper than buying a HKS or Greddy kit at $900+ Just give it a flush or if you don't feel confident doing this take it to a radiator shop to do it for you. If you are really worried you can buy an inline oil filter.

I had a pair in my GTR. They were comfy enough for me on short to medium drives and very supportive. My backside would go numb after 2 hrs or so of sitting in them. Very light even in the FRP version. I'm built like an asian though and 190cm tall

RPM will be your best value for money. Scroth and Willans are my personal preference but are a lot more pricey and they all have to pass the same safety standards. Anything FIA approved will be more than adequate. Edit: I have used Sabelt, Willans, TRW and Scroth and RPM. Sabelt and RPM were only seatbelt style buckle 4 points so not sure what the Cam mechanism on them is like.

Haha, definitely a better reason for switching then the weight factor