Unkn0wn

https://web.archive.org/web/20170212022106/http://rb26.net/index.php/guides/3-installing-a-greddy-style-plenum-into-a-rb25det this link works fine for me, pictures, no issues. for those with issues, i just saved it as a PDF. it ruins the webformatting, but its printable version with pictures. Installing a Greddy style intake plenum into a RB25DET.pdf

ill be removing head to do the oil restriction and rear head drain.. so ill do all the power upgrades ahead of time.

I have used mamba housings in the past, but only ran into an issue with my falcon (the two i used on sr20 t28 and the rb25 gt30 hosuing seemed fine) I ordered a 1.04 housing and fitted that up. on the dyno she was boosting quite early and droping off in the top end with to much exhaust back-pressure (pushing the gate open). Physical size comparison vs the garret 1.04 housing, the mamba was more rear world similar size to a garret .8 housing. i ended up switching to a garret 1.04 rear housing and the spool was back to standard xr6 amounts but it would hold a solid boost line and not blow the gate open. just be weary of the potential for sizing mismatch.

i am digging up an old thread, but im also wondering the same thing - as golbys sell the 1.3mm gasket and head bolts together it must be a common combo?

if were talking a piece of the porcine insulator from the spark plug - get it out and don't start the car before you clear it. if were talking a small piece of soft plastic then meh. if your worried about your turbo blades, remove the actuator from the exhaust flap and leave the flap wide open. the exhaust gas will take the path of least resistance and there is a verry good chance it will go out the wastegate hole not the turbine blades.

X2 agree with all points made by GTSBOY.. Those 460's are power hungry, so make sure you run appropriate wiring to them, they will eat 20amp... if its in tank remove the electrical fittings and fit post type terminals to cope with the higher power demand.

Most Nissan turbos use those 370cc side feed injectors. AFAIK s1/s2 fuel injectors are interchangeable. SR20 turbo motors use same injectors, with the exclusion of the jap s15 motor that has 440cc ones, or 380cc if you believe the hype/run 4 bar base pressure. TBH i haven't done enough reading into this fault you refer to about the injectors being lower quality, nor heard of it before. Im pretty sure anyone who touches an ethanol blend on these cars, has changed injectors. if you serious about hating the injectors, perhaps look at replcing them with a newer one....i doubt your going to find any stock sized ones tho. places like detcaworks do the 550 cc bolt in replacements but obviously you would need a tune.

Factory 3 wire, thro an igniter similar to s1 rb's

cheers for the write-up, ive been considering this mod, but getting "kit" from Gobbys... i know when i went LS coils on my sr/nistune, the ecu would ocasially throw up an ignition error code (dosent put up a error light, just pulls it up in ecu errors) ... is this the same for this swap? the dwell time on the sr, whitch i think is similar to the rb is dependent on voltage and RPM, but most of the time you will see it around 2.5 to 3 Ms

WA WTB R32 Rad Fan Shroud WTB R32 Rad Fan Shroud in wa will consider with stock rad. cheers

the much awaited update! well maybe not much awaited, but an update non the less. the first day was a 40deg day and the skyline was boiling the coolant...dident help that i dont have a fan shroud installed. Installed a thermo fan on the radiator (from one of the dead cars parts stack) wired that into the headlight loom, because dont have headlights. after that the temps stayed under control. The exhaust was trying really hard to melt the loom on the first day, so i built a heat shield and covered it in the heat tape. replaced the hicas with a lock-bar car ran great all weekend! here is some pics.

Yeah the paddock is full of sheep...they usually all run away when we come down but this one was a little late to the party. Thats not the whole track btw, that's just the "short track" its split-up so you can race two cars at the same time. (crosses over, so you do long, then short, or if your on the other side short then long) a few of the guys have made videos of our adventures over the years...next weekend will be the weekend for racing and im pretty excited to thrash the skyline for 4 days /insert Bimbadeen Racing Plug https://www.facebook.com/BimbadeenRacing https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL95HXPRv0gTQ8KIQ7wPAOg2IwqyRDMZCU

R33 farmcar. Who like's no-fuks-given builds? Gday Blokes This will be for the boys who enjoy backyard crap, not full blown nice builds. So we have a farm, that farm has a race track and each year we run a few events and buy shit cars to race, now if your quick you can pickup a few imports cheap...last year i went out with a stock sr20det 180sx that i later turned into a full drift build......a few months ago I picked up a crashed and shit R33 skyline. friends The car was pretty molested and shit, after tidying up lots of things I tried to get it started......long story short it had been sitting over 5 years in the weather and the engine was full of water/rust and all sorts of bad crap....i measured 0 compression on cyl 1 and 2 - then gave up testing. * rusted fuel pump / replaced with a spare walbro had sitting around. the fuel in the tank has melted all the seals and gone off. Pulled the motor out and went and got another 25 (because im sucker for pain) Clutch was u/s but i had a new one around for another project..so that went in. installed new thermostat, lower temp tridon one, i think its 70deg open. Installed a r32 rad i had lying around, had to remake the bottom mounts, make it sit higher + different rubber mounts type. Installed an intercooler on the front reo bar Made up some nice short pipework, to go through the front light cutouts. bonnet was bent, so threw it out made a short "dose" "snorkel" pipe or whatever you want to call it. made a twin top exit exhaust got a r32 ecu nistuned for the rb went out to farm for a test run So pretty excited for Australia day weekend, as that is race / play weekend! and there it is, shitty r33 for your pleasure.

RB25 Turbo Hotpipe Size Hi Guys I stupidly went to work before getting all the joiner sizes from the RB25..ive found some but i need the turbo outlet size. <Picture attached> From another thread, i have these details : https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410659-silicone-reducerjoiner-size-rb25det/ TB : 2.75 Inch Crossover pipe to Cold Pipe : 2.6 Inch Cold Pipe : 2.3 / 2.4 Inch If you know, or if you have a rb in easy reach could you please help me out, Cheers

WTB RB25DE/DET Long Block WTB rb25de/det long block, as mines full of rust and no compression. in perth/wa cheers

I recently put one of these turbos on my Sr (700177-5014) With 270 cams, .64 rear housing i had full boost of 17psi by 4900/5000Rpm. Given that post above info (cheers mate) I have a feeling i'm not even into the turbos efficiency range I'm not terribly fond of the lag, so im looking for a smaller turbo and i think ill stick this one on the 3l. anyway, bump for super old post. + found some info on the turbo here : http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/700177_dash_5014/Garrett-GT3082RL-CHRA/pd.php

Ive been having some fun with my fuel pump install. this is for a s13, but most of its universal. i was actually in this thread for ideas on how to get larger pump feed wires into the pump. I was using 15-amp wires to the relay in the rear of the car, that then used the stock wire to the pump carrier, as there was no way to change this. after looking into the electrical connectors, i found these cheap, the pro flow surge tank fittings. http://www.proflow.com.au/catalog/511510 VPW have them for like $10. To remove the stock fitting i just drilled out the riveted type connection they have, with a rubber washer (keeping the washer) then i had to drill out the hole to accommodate the new fitting. I had to install two additional washers as there was not enough thread to get it tight. so inside it looks like this = stock rubber washer > pro-flow o ring > pro-flow washer > 2 SS washers > Nut > fuel pump wire > nut. as shown here > On the top side i ended up with a relay near the battery, and 50 amp cable running directly to the pump, with a shared ground (i was getting a little to much voltage drop without the shared ground)

Bump the shit out of an old thread. I've been using a 3t SCA jacks for years now and its done the job for the 4b and s13's just fine, but then again i don't have them low. Short story is, i lowered the track one and now i cant fit my jack in (something like 11cm min on this jack) Couple of my mates have the Bluepoint ones and ive allways wanted one. Just called our Snapon dealer and he has a couple in stock and he said they are around $560. thats for the "Blue Point Long Reach Super Low Service Jack -- SNX1LLTJ " So given this thread is super old now, whats everyone else using.....or shall i just get the bluepoint and be happy?

Yeah I did ask, no reply. Was hoping somone on here might have one lying around and be nice enough to measure it for me :-)

Hi Guys n Girls, I have a silvia, but i understand the nissan brake boosters are pretty generic. Im looking for a smaller booster, do they exist? why am i posting here? i found this r33 non abs booster on ebay, and to me, it looks smaller. is it an optical illusion, or are certain r33 boosters smaller diameter? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-AND-BOOSTER-BM44-NON-ABS-/281657431180?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item419417548c cheers!

Im just doing some reading on e85 atm, i have no first world experience yet. But if this was the case, then why not heat the fuel for startup? like the biodiesel need to be heated for startup? or am i way off here?

Hi Guys, Im looking for some nissan type side feed injectors, set of 6. some nismo 555's would be nice. but willing to look at all options. also a nismo adjustable FPR would be awsome to. please pm what you have and a price. Would prefer wa/mandurah/perth area so i can pickup. cheers

are you selling the fuel rail with the injectors? (im after a fuel rail haha)

Hey, im in mandurah WA pretty sure you made me a dump pipe many moons ago? Yes its the vq30det, could i trouble you for some pictures of what you have? i dont have many pics, but this is the 30det equ of what im after from a 25.

Hi Guys n Girls, If someone could answer this question, then the WTB might be useless. Can a lower + upper intake manifold from a vq25 bolt onto a vq30? then to continue onward, to answer my own question id like to get my hands on a lower/upper vq25 intake manifold. Either to borrow (haha) or to buy very cheaply. Anyway, if you can help, let me know cheers.