shombre

Thanks everyone, appreciate the recommendations

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone could recommend a good tint installer for an R35 in Melbourne? I'm after a ceramic based tint as I use my phone in the car a lot. Rob Tait in Ringwood was universally recommended but unfortunately no longer tints GT-Rs due to logistical reasons (his height and back issues make it very difficult for him to tint the rear windscreen in particular, given the transmission tunnel). I accept that tint installs are probably reasonably standardised, but I'm ideally after someone who will take due care removing and reinstalling brand new GT-R interior trim so that I don't get prematurely annoying rattles and so forth. Thanks a lot!

Thanks for the kind words, Simon That was my initial worry but in fact on the street it's deceptively linear. There's no question that it gives my RaceLogic traction control a workout, especially in the wet, but it's a lot of fun.

Sorry for the late replies, I don't really check this forum regularly. Yep, as attached. A couple of things to bear in mind - as soon as we put the car on and saw what gate pressure alone yielded, Trent and I made the decision to do all subsequent runs in 4th gear and with a faster ramp rate than the comparison graph. I didn't see the need to flog the motor any more than I needed to when the numbers were already great. The tradeoff is that the graph looks very laggy in comparison to the 2860RS one. In fact on the street, without any brake boosting or other trickery, it reaches 22psi at ~3800rpm in 4th. For a genuine 500+rwkW car on normal fuel, that's pretty damn good, and about 600rpm better than my 2860RSs were doing for ~10% less power at 24psi. BTW, this result is with a 2deg timing buffer It made over 550rwkW but like I said, daily driven on regular petrol, so safety and reliability held primacy. Hi, yes it would. The most relevant details are ~3.3L displacement 2JZ GTE stroker motor, +1mm Ferrea valvetrain, stock throttle body and inlet manifold, GSC "S1" cams (269deg/9.9mm) through a 6 speed drivetrain. Without boring you with a spec sheet, it's (heavily over)built for 9000rpm and 1500rwhp. I have an appropriately conservative 7300rpm rev limit and cam gears dialled for maximum street friendliness rather than peak power. Hence my point that it can't be compared directly to anybody else's setup on here, rather serving only as an interesting data point. It really is a badass street setup. Lots of easy power without revving the goolies off it, as Chris Harris so eloquently put it once. Yes, I was.

FWIW, I recently upgraded my twin GT2860RS turbos to twin GTX2863s. I'm running Tial 0.86 AR turbine housings, externally gated with full recirculation, and I'm on a full house stroked 2JZ-GTE motor with literally all the bells and whistles. I made ~10% more power at ~10% less boost, and the biggest difference to me wasn't just the top end, which was epic - it was part throttle and low boost. For a street car - literally daily driven, on BP Ultimate fuel and WMI - this was an ideal upgrade, and most unexpected in many ways. The combination was a much happier one than the one it replaced, which was by no means bad. Revved easier, took more ignition timing, was less noisy - full of win. Obviously it is difficult, if not impossible, to compare my setup directly to anyone else's on this board, but I still think that it is indicative as a data point.

Just to update, there are in fact 3 Denso pumps BNIB. Also, in case it was unclear, I have 8 of the Apex'i filters, and the selling price is per filter. Obviously I would be happy to negotiate pricing for someone purchasing multiple units - this applies to the filters and the Denso pumps. Thanks.

I've got a few items for sale, all brand new with 1 exception, all located in Melbourne, and all prices excluding delivery. Please don't waste my time with ridiculous offers - I believe these are priced fairly. First person with funds transferred gets the items. Contact via PM or e-mail - shom(underscore)b(at)hotmailcom Direct Dropbox image links included per item. 1) Genuine Apexi Power Intake universal pod filters - 8 of - Universal Apex'i pod filter replacement elements - non-oiled, easy to clean with compressed air - 500-A022 (black x 6) and 500-A032 (silver x 2) - Superb balance between filtration and airflow - http://www.mikekemper.com/elantra/filters/ - Supported 550rwkW without any evident restriction or collapse - Lifetime use provided they are cleaned with compressed air at regular intervals and the integrity of the material is sound - I checked every 10000km - Bought in anticipation of long term use, but surplus to my needs - These are backordered from Japan (I checked recently), and ship in largish boxes which adds to their unit cost - I paid $110 each, but will sell them for $90 - no waiting! https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85877652/Power%20Intake%201.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85877652/Power%20Intake%202.jpg 2) 2 x Genuine Metal Cat 2.5" cat converters - http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod522.htm - Probably the best metal substrate catalytic converters out there- US EPA and CARB legal (I've taken pictures of the stamps and the installation paperwork that comes with them) - 200 cells per inch, 590-odd cfm worth of flow - Markedly more resistant to blockage than standard substrate cats, legal, and a flow rate close to that of a straight pipe, so the best of both worlds! - Cost me a small fortune - almost $900 for the pair, selling for $250 each/ $500 for the pair https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85877652/Metal%20Cat%201.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85877652/Metal%20Cat%202.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85877652/Metal%20Cat%203.jpg 3) Aeromotive 340 and 2 x OEM USDM TT Supra Denso fuel pumps - All pumps brand new, boxed, unopened - Flow testing of these pumps - http://realstreetperformance.com/Fuel-Pump-Comparison-Test.html?search=store+pages - Aeromotive "Stealth" 340L/hr pump - tiny, silent and I have had one reliably running in my car for the last 4 years - Supplied enough fuel for 550rwkW, and continues to supply enough for 475rwkW on a daily basis! - Tested to provide enough fuel for 785hp at 65psi fuel pressure with the least current draw of comparable pumps - Surplus to my needs - I always purchase 1 extra pump in case of failure, but I recently removed and inspected my current Aeromotive pump and it's pristine - Denso USDM Supra TT pumps x 2 - nothing to say about these that hasn't already been said; quiet, rock solid OEM reliability, excellent flow (300Lhr at 14V, 632hp at 65psi fuel pressure) with reliable increases when the voltage supplied is increased (http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm) - Cost me $195 (Aeromotive) and $240 (per Denso pump) delivered - selling for $170 (Aeromotive) and $200 (each Denso) https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85877652/Aeromotive%20pump.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85877652/Denso%20pumps%202.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85877652/Denso%20pumps.jpg

Chiizzi, I run the boost kit with my PowerFC controlling an extensively modified twin turbo setup. I've used it since 2005, so I think I can speak with some authority about long term reliability. It has never had a problem controlling boost to 29psi on the dyno, and I daily drive at 24psi without issue. It has excellent overboost protection and it learns the boost curve if you follow the learning procedure (from memory, 4th or higher gear runs from 1500rpm to 4000rpm - probably best done on the dyno depending on your power level). It also avoids the need for yet another box. Yes, you can adjust the boost level on the fly with the hand controller. However, I'm not running internal wastegates. I'm also surprised you, as a native user of this forum since 2007, didn't find this thread in your search - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/229928-dyno-graphs-comparing-pfc-boost-controll-vs-blitz-idiii/ I have to agree with other posters that there are "better" boost controllers out there, for the *sole* reason that the PFC doesn't apply adjustable closed loop control ("gain") to promote earlier spool. However, this is really just a function of wastegate spring preload, or, in the case of external gates, running appropriate spring pressures. I chose to do the latter (1.2Bar springs) and have had no issues. This fact is also referenced in the linked thread. Your tuner's opinion is important but he might be the same sort of person telling me that I'd have crap driveability and a dodgy power tune on my setup with a PowerFC, and that I should switch for a (insert ECU du jour here). I'd counter with 530+rwkW for multiple runs, 470rwkW daily driven, pump fuel and WMI, perfect cold and hot starts and excellent driveability out of this "dinosaur" ECU If you want something reliable, easy to set up and neat - I'd say go for it.

Hi Darren, someone brought your post to my attention I didn't experiment with smaller nozzles, though I had them available. I bought my kit as a customised one put together by a US based vendor with a lot of experience using WMI on very high hp cars. He suggested these nozzle sizes, which I initially queried because they were both rather large and the inverse of what the Snow Performance FAQ seemed to recommend (i.e. large primary, small secondary compared to the recommended opposite). In this vendor's considerable experience with very high hp (and $$) 2JZ motors, he had found that the rate of torque generation, and the corresponding spike in cylinder pressures and heat, mandated higher volumes overall and a large primary with a smaller secondary, to allow the WMI delivery to match cylinder events and maximise the benefits. I have no perceptible aberrant quench now that it's tuned, and the results speak for themselves so I'm satisfied with his reasoning I regard the WMI mixture very much as a consumable for safety. As I'm about to go bigger again on the motor side of things, it's also nice to know that the infrastructure to support the new setup is in place. HTH.

Hi guys, this is my car that Trent's talking about. I might as well address the questions directly Apologies for the long post. It's a 2JZ-GTE unopened except for mild cams (HKS 264s, 9mm lift). Sky30, your setup is probably most comparable to mine in that you're running a 3L bottom end. TurboS, in the best twin tradition , are twin GT2860RS with Tial 0.64A/R V-band housings, mounted on a V-band modified Blitz TT manifold, which is a rare item for these motors. Custom fabrication +++ for inlet, intercooler piping and twin discharge piping done by an artist fabricator friend of mine. I run a customised Snow Performance Stage 3 kit. I make my own mix, spraying ~55:45 meth:distilled water early and in high volumes, 625cc primary and 375cc secondary nozzles. Price wise, the Boost Juice premix retails for about $4/L. Mine costs $1.55/L. No brainer I use a ~10L boot mounted reservoir, and top up weekly, but it would easily last a month. The car is daily driven. I completely disagree with those who find it a "low quality" kit - I am not budget limited, I chose this kit, and my experience is anything but. Nothing has pooled, sludged, or obstructed - although again, my car doesn't sit, it gets driven like it should. E85 is a half hour drive from me assuming zero traffic, and it's not what I want to be doing on a busy workday or weekend. My fuel setup is simple - single in-tank pump, stock lines, rail, reg, drop in 800cc injectors - as is my engine management (PFC), and for my daily driven purposes, it has been flawless. My mix is well controlled and stored, and to re-do my fuel system properly for E85 would have been another few thousand dollars, plus inconvenience, and the possibility of fuel smell in the cabin etc from using aftermarket lines - not an option for me, I have a baby seat in back with precious cargo, who, might I say, LOVES the sound of an external gate Before I took it to Trent, I road tuned it, and it was very happy with +6deg timing advance across the board - including at peak torque, with ZERO knock audible. I am big on safety, so we ended up with +4deg of timing advance and significantly richer AFs than the mid 12s:1 at which WMI really starts to shine. Furthermore, 4psi boost increase netted an extra 65rwkW. Any setup making >15rwkW/lb of boost is frigging efficient, and the WMI I'm SURE plays a big part in that, notwithstanding the time and effort I put in to matching all components in my setup. I don't think E85 would yield significantly higher gains. Finally, an added benefit I saw when I road tuned it. I could run almost 20% leaner overall, and this translated to a direct improvement in fuel economy of 20%. More power, less fuel used = win for a daily driven application To give you an idea of how effective the WMI is - I drove 120km total yesterday, in high ambient temperatures, to and from work and straight to the dyno. First pull on the dyno, NO cooldown time, at my street boost yielded 390rwkW - bang on exactly what it was when I got it tuned previously. As Trent says, it provides consistent, repeatable and reliable results irrespective of ambient temperature- IF the mix is controlled and stored properly. Logged IATs drop from a heatsoaked steady state by over 50% - within 3 SECONDS. There is no FMIC setup that will do this so rapidly. Needless to say, the car is brilliant to drive on the street Hope this helps others thinking about going this route. It takes a bit of care, but I would unreservedly recommend it for a daily driven vehicle. Happy to answer any questions as needed.

Terrific discussion! Just a small point - the 1JZ-GTE non-VVTi did in fact come from the factory with twin parallel turbos, unlike the sequential setup on the non-VVTi 2JZ-GTE, but certainly not on those manifolds pictured. So half of this statement - "... tread warily with an unknown quantity like a 1JZ that never had parallel twins or those manifolds standard..." - is true Carry on ...

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Hi there, I'm in SE Melb and interested in your boost controller if it's still available. I don't want to spam the forum to get to 10 posts, so could you pls send me an e-mail - shom(underscore)b(at)hotmail(dot)com - with your contact details so we can discuss it further ? Thanks.

I don't even own a Skyline, but every owner review in this thread makes me smile Many congratulations to all of you for your purchase of what sounds like the real deal ! To say I'm envious would be a gross understatement ...

Correct, so we agree that MAF - by definition - doesn't need the IAT to estimate air density. Can you explain how the differences in temperature sensors, if that is actually the case, between engines matters ? On a speed density based system, inlet air temp is needed - is this not universal, irrespective of the temperature sensor type ? Does the stock RB26 only modify ignition advance or retard for various sensed air temperatures, or does it also alter fuelling ? If the latter, as I suspect is the case, then the type of sensor is not germane to the issue.

Adriano, in MAP-sensor'd JZ-series engines, the PowerFC definitely has adjustable tables for fuelling vs inlet air temp. I imagine in MAF-driven cars this may be a non-issue, but I would have thought that for RB26s, there would be some form of compensation in the stock engine management for perceived inlet air temps ? The density of air at 10deg versus 30deg (for example) mandates this IMHO. Happy to be corrected, as I am not familiar with RB2x engines other than what I've learned over a few years of browsing this particularly excellent sub-forum

I have run an RLTC with launch control (pre-digital adjuster version) for a while now. It is, quite simply, a phenomenal unit. I run it on a moderately modified 1JZ Soarer making substantially more power than stock, and it has literally saved my life in the wet on at least 3 separate occasions. It is no substitute for driving with "situational awareness", but in a high powered RWD car, it just buys you that little extra time to perform corrective manoeuvres. I imagine the benefits would multiply on a high powered AWD car. The launch control is fun too As stated, it is very customisable; basic settings are Wet, Dry, and 10--30% slip via the adjustment knob. Obviously, it can also be switched off. IMHO it's one of the most worthwhile mods I've ever performed.

Dee, have to agree with you there. I'd never driven a manual before I switched to one in my Soarer. It came complete with a Jim Berry carbotic 3400lb *grippy* clutch. Brilliant for its function, very intimidating for a beginner. My fiancee's brother very kindly donated his time and S13 to teach me the basics - I had two lessons, then made the switch to my car. It took a month of good peak hour driving before I became really comfortable with it. But I have to say, just being comfortable with the *rest* of the things required by a driver made concentrating on changing/engaging gears smoothly, esp on hillstarts, MUCH easier than it otherwise would have been.

Bump, $400 guys No word from anyone on whether this is suitable ?

As far as I can see, just the one side mate.

Hi all, longterm reader, very much a newbie poster. I don't own a Skyline, but have mucho respect for them. I purchased this near-new DLI in error for my Soarer - I have been informed that the shape of the pinout to the harness actually makes this suitable for Nissans. As I understand it, the DLI is an ignition amplifier, using capacitative discharge and transistors to charge the spark plugs more rapidly - which minimises improper spark at high RPMs and boost. Info about the unit in general here :- http://shop.store.yahoo.com/sgpracing-stor...liignition.html Could I ask that somebody more knowledgeable please take a look at my pics, and confirm that this is in fact suitable for RB-series powered Nissans ? If suitable, it's up for sale, as it is of no use to me. I don't have the extension vehicle specific harness for it. New prices as I have them from Greenline are 50kyen delivered for the DLI Type I and the vehicle specific harness (44k for the DLI, 3k for the harness) - about AU$600. I would like $AU450. The unit is in SE Melbourne, but it's small enough to be sent anywhere (incl overseas). E-mail contact - shombre_at_optushome.com.au Thanks in advance