tiesto

just been reading this topic and my question may apply somewhat i've got a stock rb20det motor just turbo back exhaust on 10psi atm i've also got a r33 s2 turbo which im going to be purchasing shortly and i have a fmic/kit which i'm going to be put on the same time as the turbo with turbo back exhaust, pod, fmic, r33 s2 turbo, is it safe to run 1bar (14psi) without receiving any boost/fuel cuts.. would i need a remap or chip of my stock ecu?

you can save yourself a bit of money buy buying the parts from online shops and getting it delievered then installing yourself it is not a very hard job to do the turbo back exhaust you just need to be keen with the right tools and a days time should be good to go i got 3" dump and front, then HKS muffler and my rb20 has a nice note the one you are looking for...

pm evl r33 he got his front bar repaired recently it was badly falling to pieces before but its like brand new condition now

yeah my problem seems identical to yours inissane although my car is driveable only when i get on the brake hard with clutch in it stalls but then comes back also hard to start aswell like you said i might try battery ive changed afm aswell and ive cleaned aac valve ;p i wired my fuel pump aswell to the boot so it bypasses the ecu (could be the problem?) i might change that back this weekend will post results

yeah start up issues on cold when i start it on cold without tapping the throttle it is hard to start i have had my alternater reconditioned so it's like brand new on my apexi pen timer it shows 12.2 - 12.5 volts on the battery but the reading also flashes indicating it is also at low voltage i'm planning to buy a new battery soon but there is no problem with it being charged

thanks guys will give it a go yeah i sprayed before just near my plenum i had a leak there on inlet manifold i have changed my inlet manifold gasket because inside cylinder 5 and 6 air was choking a bit there and its all fixed now so no more severe idle problems, like the car is driveable now but just if you jump hard on brake or clutch in the revs will go down severely but then kick up again

i dont have atmo bov? i'm running stock bov with stock piping at the moment

Hi guys Ever since I bought my r32 rb20det I get this weird problem when driving and only recently I found the symptoms of it Sometimes when I start it (cold start) I have to tap the throttle to get the revs up then it idles perfectly with no problems and warming up is fine When im driving at like 60kmh in fifth gear I put the clutch in and the revs go all the way to 0rpm and battery light comes on etc, but if I tap the throttle it the revs would go up accordingly and then get back off the clutch it will come back to life as in the revs would be back to normal Is this something to worry about? Sometimes also at low speeds, if I'm on the clutch and I apply the brake really hard to stop at intersections it does the same thing and the revs die to 0rpm and all lights come on, but then tap the throttle or clutch out and it kicks back itself again... Could it be some sort of leak somewhere? Any advice would be appreciated

Jshop is now located at Corner Leach Hwy & Welshpool Rd U12/108 Welshpool Rd, in Welshpool Opening Hours: Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm Saturday 10am to 3pm Sunday 10am to 3pm

i just bought dump and front courtesy of b0bb0 top bloke

nah lol? im looking for one hence the wtb / wanted to buy

ok i have seen another problem my battery light is glowing/shining around idle 900/1000rpm perfect but when i rev it to 2000 or more, battery light disappears is this alternator? what could it be/

when i start it, the car finds it very hard to find revs by this i mean when i turn the key it ignites revs go from 0 to to 100 then prob 200, back to 100, give it a tap and it goes up to 900, on cold starts you have to keep tapping it after it goes to 900 sometimes it drops back straight to 0 then 100 to 200. then after its warm it idles perfect 900 coming to stops/intersections does the same problem. will check out what you said, rob82, and will reply

im in the boot now checking out my fuel pump where is the fuel filter? i'm going to ground the fuel pump's ground wire to the chassis that way you can get fuel all the time and when in idle more fuel will come in i read it in another thread.

in need of a gtr fuel pump please 33/32 gtr pm me

yeah i've reset the ecu disconnect battery hold brake for 30secs and then start it up again it only happens when im driving the car and coming to a stop or turning at intersections. gotta tap it to keep revs up but then it stays perfect 900rpm idle could it be throttle body getting stuck and having to tap it to get it up again i've cleaned throttle body/tps/aac valve i might try the throttle body again

aac valve was cleaned put it back in and still no luck i disconnected o2 senser, a little bit better but still wants to stall when i approach a corner/intersection in gear and slowdown in gear and leave it in gear with clutch in, it doesnt stall its only when u come to a stop or turn and roll it in neutral and then stop it starts to drop out so have to tap it to keep it up oh and i replaced the afm with a working rb20det afm i know of a mate let me borrowed , still the same any clues?

i shall give this a go if when i put my aac valve back in ta will post results soon

nope stock bov i just cleaned the aac valve it was dirty as f*k its sitting in carby cleaner right now gonna try tomorrow let yas know also have another green label rb20det afm i will try if aac cleaning did not fix

ok everything is bolted back up togethor took for drive, let it warmed up still has the same problem, come to a stop whilst driving and then the revs drop really low and battery and hicas light flash and come on i have to tap it and then the revs are perfect 800-900rpm just under 1000rpm could it be the little gold tube (iac solenoid?) which needs cleaning? almost impossible to get the bottom screw from this part (one with the brown adapter connected to it).. or should i try a mates afm, which i know is working on a rb20det.. since this could still be afm problem? edit - also when the revs drop down and idle becomes low, there is a kind of screeching noise coming right from above the plenum, where it says eccs. but when it idles fine the sound isnt there. anyone had this problem?

ok well afm cleaned thorougly and then i removed piping cleaned tps as it was covered filthy with black dirt so its nice and shiny took it for a spin, perfect, no idle problems i came back, to adjust the revs to make them lower (it was idle at about 1000-1100rpm) and then i lost the small nut under the throttle body where it has a small screw head to adjust the revs (i think thats where it is).. not far from the aac valve im about to find a new nut for it and put it on, but i took it for a spin without the nut and the revs were back to playing up again, does anyone know? will respond when i got the nut in and its all tight

thanks Jolinator is it just engine manual or complete manual for entire car?

i would like it to please

ok well everything is disconnected i dont know how the afm is supposed to be clean? is the top part of the afm black part supposed to come apart or what on a stock rb20det afm? also i found that when the afm was removed, there was oil inside in the pipe , should i remove this pipe and clean it.. bit hard to get to the end of the pipe where the intercooler piping is covering it all

im gonna take apart pod now and clean afm with contact cleaner will post results few hours