urtwhistle

I'm with NIB on this 1. BUT if HSE are any were as goods as Heller Sable next door (industrial machinest's) you will get some damn fine work.

Hi Paul, In my situation I am running a RB30 with RB25 Neo head, but I don't trust the timing markings on my car for a variety of reasons. going from what you have mentioned above and the specs for standard RB25DET NEO Camshaft duration 236°in, 232°ex lift: 8.4mm in, 8.7mm ex does any 1 know what degree's in relation to TDC the intake cam is set to standard @ 0.040" of lift? or what degree's the intake cam is set to at maximum lift in standard form. regards

ah sorry mate I just re read that yours has been put into a highflow. Thats awsome, mine is a complete new turbo that Stao made up for me. V band is like a pipe clamp flange on the exhasut housing, instead of using a 6 bolt flange like nissan use on the turbo. regards

ahhh sweet thanks for your graphs, i got the same turbo but in .82 and on a RB30. you have just inspired me to finally pull my finger out and put my cam gears on and fix the timing issues because yours is coming on a fair bit earlier even with the RB25. But damn the bang for buck you get with these turbo's is friggen awsome. did you use a VBAND setup also?? I think 1 suggestion for stao would be for them to use a 3" VBAND instead of the 2.5". Chris

Can any 1 help out with this?

Hello, Just a quick question. Does any 1 know if it is possible to remove the sump from a R34 with out 1st dropping the cross member? or unbolting the engine mounts and lifting the motor 20 to 30mm Please note the engine mounts have been modded to drop the motor 10mm lower. the main concern I have is clearing the oil pick up. regards Chris

Well for example my R34 has the sK group buy setup ie Bilsteins, white line springs, whiteline swaybars front/rear, pineapples, rear camber/toe arms, front castor arms, front camber bush's. I think people run way too much camber, too low, too hard. I'm really impressed with these KU31's, they were damn cheap and have blown the K104's away in sheer grip with my car any way. since fitting the KU31's I cant spin the tires by simply rolling on the throttle any more. I used to be able to do it 1st 2nd even 3rd on some rd's.

Hey for what it's worth, Today I fitted 255-35 18's on my 270kw RB30 R34GTT. as long as I don't side step or flat change I can't light the tires like I could with my 235-40 18 Hankook k104's by simply rolling the power on in 2nd and 3rd gear (which cost me twice as much)

Jim rebuilt my Nismo copper max single plate. converted it to a organic with 3400 clamping pressure. it feels no heavier then original and its great to drive. thats with a RB30 making 500Nm of torque worth every cent of the 900 odd it cost me.

Bubba I really don't go out prepared to drop skids............ They just seem to happen. 1 set of tires down BTW.

You are correct Bubba, I was just a little supprised the garret branded 1's came on that fast thats all. In no way am I disapointed tho.

Hmmm ok it's starting to make sense now, I'm running stock Neo exhaust mani and intake. 2 1/4" inter cooler piping. 3" intake. 2.5"Vband straight onto 3" dump and its internally wastegated. I might fit my ex cam gear and pretension the waste gate a touch more. that Comp ratio would have a damn big effect too. Cheers guys!!!

Hmmmm shall I go eat my hat now???? what cam's and exhaust mani you guys running to get spooling that much quicker. I know mine is not 100% finished but I wouldn't have thought you could get it on the boil 1k rpm earlier. But obviously you can.

I'll have to take some pics, the turbo is a hypergear 3576. running 16psi. it doesn't make massive power but its mega fun to drive.

Hey, I got a Rb30/25 with a GT3576 and even on the 30 it still takes till 4500rpm to hit 18psi. sooo a 3582 on a Rb25 is deffinitly going to be slower.

yeah mate, just spray some primer over the raw edges and then put the cover back on. what you can't see aint gonna hurt them mate. its not like you have removed all the bracing . just 100x100mm square. My cars running and tuned done 2000k's, made 366hp 500nm @ 5500rpm. needs a little more boost and she will be sweet.

Hello this is my first tune on my new motor. It's a RB30/25 Neo standard valve's, valve springs, cams, rods, crank Power FC Ross/ACL forged non turbo +.20MM pistons Seimens 660cc injectors Z32 AFM Hypergear GT3576 56T.82 turbine and .60 comp internally gated with a 1.5KG high pressure actautor It needs a bit more of a tweak, as I used a oiled filter and clogged the AFM but never realised untill after it was tuned. Cam gear,tighten up the A/F ratio and some decent ducting between the intercooler and radiator as it was getting warm on the dyno. It may not have MASSIVE power but it is wicked fun to drive. chris

just remove the nice cover off the bonnet put a big dollop of grease along your throttle body to BOV. drop the bonnet down see were its got grease. pull out trusty 5" angle grinder and remove the small peice of bracing. bonnet sorted. But you still need to drop the motor to the absolute max, and for good measure i put 2 washers under the bonnet hinge and lifted the bonnet latch a few MM.

I'm 90% sure I have now fixed this. I completely chopped out the LPG wiring loom and rewired the car as per standard. the car now idles perfectly under all conditions. stupid bloody dual fuel setup.... now to find out what in the LPG setup has been fried. regards Chris

I borrowed the scope from work, and put the probes directly into the ecu pin outs and they are all the same. like they should be. soooo the search continues.

My R34 GTT is dual fueled, and paid for it self in about a year. like previously said the main problem is Line pressure and the tuning to make it work, esp with a vapour sequential injection set up like mine. 1 work around is to run dual gas lines, dual convertors and dual injectors. (highly ugly and impracticle). Liquid injection is 10x better, no gas convertors, constant fuel pressure as there is a pump in the gas tank and alot less wiring. and allot higher power capabilities. another trick is to trigger the gas computer to revert back to running on petrol once a set rev or load point is hit. regards Chris

Cheers Scott, I will be pulling off the cam covers this weekend to check that the cams have been shimmed correctly. my luck the valve seats have been cut then the stock shims reinstalled. its the 1 thing I never did as the machine shop were supposed to do all that. I was thinking along the same lines with the injectors. I will also put a voltage clamp or scope on the injector loom. if the power Fc some how in its infinite wisdom is not holding the injector open for as long it should be, it should be pretty easy to measure and then adjust it to match the rest. It must be the only perk working for an engineering company with a electrical R&D section. chris

If only it was that easy. I swapped all the coils & injectors around and borrowed another spare1. no matter what happens the problem stays on cyl 2. which leads me to think that some how the powerFC is telling cyl2 to inject a lower percentage or holding the injector open for less then the other 5 injectors. and if it did it on the stock injectors, doubling the injector size would only make the problem worse. regards Chris

Hello every 1, I appear to be having a strange missfire. But b4 you say "did you use the Search button" YES YES I did. Ok the car is a R34 GTT, forged RB30/25 Neo with Rebuilt head, GT3576, PowerFC, z32 AFM, siemens 660cc injectors, very very high flowed cat and mufflers, standard coils. the motor has done 1300k's since it's rebuild. ok when the car is started cold, there is no miss what so ever. when the water temp hits 60+Deg and over it starts to get a partial miss (like every 2nd firing rotation)@ idle on CYL 2 only. Although I do not believe that it is missing when driven under load. I.E below 60 deg disconnect ANY coil and it runs like shite. over 60 deg and disconnecting any coil but #2 cause the motor to run worse. (cyl 2 does not change from its already poor idle) I have swapped out the coils for known good 1s - no change. I then thought possibly the coil wiring loom was faulty. removed coil from the motor plugged a spare spark plug into it, earthed the spark plug onto the head. perfect constant spark. I then replaced all the spark plugs. No change, plugs were fine and already gapped to 0.8mm I have also flow tested my injectors, all are good and flowing fine. I then thought maybe the wiring to injector #2 was faulty. I disconnected the injector while running, and the partial miss became a full miss(every firing rotation). ( so fueling is not the problem) Then after all this I thought maybe I had accidently changed the injector % for cyl 2. nope all 57% with 16ms. out of curiosity i bumped the injectors % 1 by 1 to see if there was any changes. All cylinders but 2 made the car run cop rich at idle. when #2 is set at 63% the miss is non existent. Please note also, prior to the rebuild (3yrs) it had this miss @ idle. but it was like 1/4 but only enough for me to notice it when standing next to the exhaust pipe. Could a sticking valve or the Power FC just play tricks on me? thanks for reading my novel. Regards Chris

I would say because it would cost about 1/5 of the price to manufacture. while still retaining the strength esp if there Capscrews that are holding the 2 parts together. Regards Chris