urtwhistle
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Everything posted by urtwhistle
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it must be something simple and electrical, I have the same housings on my R34. sure mine isn't holding booste yet either. But that is purely due to me refitting the stock actuator and the second it hit the set booste pressure it would open but wasnt strong enough to pull it self shut again when using some decent revs. Once my 14psi actuator is fitted and tuned it should be an absolute animal. i would highly suggest any 1 planning to do a highflow to go for the new 0.60 housing that Stao has made up. In it's current state the second the car hits 4.5kRPM in second gear it wants to light 235x18's (good tyres). it didn't feel like that with the OP6 highflow. regards Chris
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Hi Stao with your actuators do they come with the bracket that bolts to the turbo itself? regards Chris
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sounds good Stao, i might just go with that then. my gas system might just be able to push that far. with your actuators do they come with the bracket that bolts to the turbo itself? regards Chris
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Should I Get Better Sub Or Amp?
urtwhistle replied to watup_gangsta's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
X50000 votes, Its easier to make a crap sub and speakers sound great if you have a decent head unit, decent wiring and a well thought out install. but hard to make a great sub/speaker sound good if your feeding it with a crap head unit, crap wiring, crap amps and poor install. i personally think your better off dyna matting the door inner and outer skins and the boot lid b4 doing any thing else. that on its own makes a huge difference. best $200 i spent on my 2nd install. every car i have had gets more and more sound deadening. The quality of the install is the most important part, a showy install does not make it sound good. things like routing the wiring so they dont get pinched or frey and matching the sub to the correct sized box are what is important to me. so in order i would go install then sound deadening, head unit, splits, amp, sub and all the good interconnects to make it work. Regards Chris -
Hi Stao, did you end up tuning that R33 at Status today? if so how did you go with the waste gate actuators? im thinking maybe going for a 14psi 1 straight up and seeing what that does to mine. tell me what u think. regards Chris
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Tcs Switch Not Working On R34 Gtt
urtwhistle replied to Flecher's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
put the TCS 10 amp fuse back in under the bonnet or plug the TPS switch back in. -
Guilt-toy In Georgia (former Soviet Union)
urtwhistle replied to Swiper the Fox's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I love stuff like this, it's good to show narrow minded people that think there is only 1 way to skin a cat and not every thing has to be branded ferrodo or HKS to be good. regards Chris -
Hi Stao, i received the turbo back the other day and have started installing it. it all seems too easy. but i will let you know once its all up and running again. regards Chris
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exactly and change the injector plugs to suit. but due to it sitting higher you either have to mod the rail so you can actually get the rail on the injectors. or take the top half of the plenum off install the injectors and rail un modified. as the rail only clashs when your posittioning the rail over the injectors. To my knowledge there the same style but unsure of the stock CC. i highly doubt that they would put bigger injectors in a NA car though. regards Chris
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i jack from under the main chassis rails toward what ever end of the car u want. then put axle stand under inner lower control arm mounting bolt.
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hahahah brad, wait a sec. what kinda fool gave Brad a license. havent seen you since school back at good old EHSHS. Chris
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Engine Test Rig... Anyone Ever Built One?
urtwhistle replied to GTRNUR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
you could use a hydraulic pump with a decent valve to constrict the flow. that will give you all the load you could ask for. -
Guilt-toy In Georgia (former Soviet Union)
urtwhistle replied to Swiper the Fox's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
hmmm could i be like some form of exchange student? eastern Euro chicks are HOT -
hey fella, i have no idea about RB26's but yes i stated [b]13MM[/b] I ended up grinding them back to about 11MM as there was a bit of extra play there that i didnt like. and being a GTR you probly dont need to worry about the fuel hose. But thats somehting you might need to look into.
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Yeah that's true, it was more out of curiosity then any thing. I doubt i would ever have the cash to pay some 1 to experiment with the ford idea. Me not so good at swinging zee spannerz. hmmmmmm now I'm intrigued i wonder if the front diff in a Territory is configured to go through the sump or completely separate, i might put my head under my sisters car next time she visits. RB35 hey? RB30 with big crank and big sleeves that's 1 hell of an increase in capacity. ok maybe an exaggeration with the light weight comment, but they aint no 1900kg ford fairlane either. ok sorry for leading every 1 off topic. regards Chris
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I know this is a little off topic and a little Tabooo. BUT does any 1 know of any attempts to mate a ford 4L Barra 6 to a GTR front diff/transfer case?. you would obviously need a wicked big bulge in the bonnet IF it did work. From what i can see after going in few XR6T's is that they make massive torque and just fry the tires with out any trouble. but if they had 4wd traction in a very light car aka GTR it would be very interesting.(every thing is light compared to the domestic Barges) Now commence Flamage lol. Regards Chris
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what if you set the car to idle at 2k then? so they had to rev it to 3k instead
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hey Geraus, the dyno prints are on page 13. it looks a little laggy on the sheet but it drives preety dam good. it just didn't appear to make as much power as i thought but my car has always dynoed lower then average. nothing serious tho. So were going to fit the biggest housing and tune it to that to see how it responds. should be interesting to overlay all the dyno prints. ie stock turbo@14psi G3@14psi G3@17psi and the atr43.63 housing @14-17 psi.
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Stao, do you ever sleep? i mean 1am on a week night. sounds like a plan if you are willing to do it, i just wont be telling the ladie why the car aint running again could you please PM me a confirmed price and i will transfer some cash into your account like last time. i'll also have to confirm with work that i can have a ute for a week. you will need to give me a list of all the info that you require in exchange. ie dyno printouts, booste graph, setup etc etc that way i know what to get. regards Chris
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Hey Stao, meh doesn't matter I'm blaming it on a low reading dyno lol and I'm told that they tend to read quite a bit lower compared to other branded dyno's its really only around 20kw lower ie 300hp =220kw. yeah BP ultimate 98, nope no sucking shut (i modded it while the turbo was off) clutch is fine. all said and done I'm happy with the car. cheers chris
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Hey Stao, yeah when i pulled mine off it deffinitly had op6 stamped on it and it still does (i just checked out of curiosity). It could be also the difference between dyno dynamics and dyno pack. do you happen to have a dyno sheet for the above car? ie my car pulled 253Hp at the wheels on 14psi (stock) then pulled 290HP on 14psi with the highflow. therefore same pressure but 50hp worth of air. so if the other car started at 210kw and then went onto make 250kw it would all be about the same gains. if that makes sense? Could you please PM me the price for the bigger housing. ahhhhh too many variables lol, at the end of the day its still damn good fun tho. sorry about my waffling out loud. Regards Chris
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hello Peoples, i finally got my R34 retuned with my 660CC injectors and retensioned the wastegate. it made ever so slightly more power. but for the sake of 10HP i would have left the stock injectors in there. we tried ramping up the boost more but made absolutely no difference. ie 14 psi made 290hp and 300 on 16. i would put money on it that you simply cant flow more through a r34 op6 housing. or there is a big bottle neck some were. the car was tuned with a full 3' ex with no cat and only a cannon muffler. z32 AFM, power FC on a dyno dynamics dyno. all tunes and runs were done on the same dyno. don't get me wrong i'm not unhappy with the setup, it drives great and sounds sweet. I just thought it would have gone a bit further with out needing to change the ex housing. which i may do once I'm bored with it, aslong as i don't build a Rb30 as a project. CHRIS_S_R34__DYNO2.pdf CHRIS_S_R34__DYNO3.pdf regards Chris
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Sorry mate if i came across a little abrupt, i was just feeling a little frustrated at the time. (was agro cos i lost a 10mm socket for a few hours) oh i see i never realised there could have been a difference. Yes i went BA turbo injectors. siemens/VDO p/n FI114961 No problems, your welcome to drop past any time. its good being able to put a face to the name. I'm currently using a 12mm spacer. you may be able to use some gr10.9 washers as they tend to be a fair bit thicker then engineering washers. give me a yell if you run into any trouble. i may have some in the bolt rack at work. regards Chris
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Can A Stock R33 Beat A Civic/integra Type R/s?
urtwhistle replied to Savin's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
i wouldn't be sooo sure about that. IF it was a DC2R then i would think you would have a real challenge and the S2000 is a bloody quick LITTLE car. stock for stock it would be quite close. they are very lightly little cars at the end of the day. Chris -
i have no idea about FG falcons................ seimens injectors are used as an upgrede not stock. ie Siemens have branded this injector DEKA. if you find any thing has changed let me know.