urtwhistle

more then likely will set the fuel injector to like 50 % in the power FC and let it get warm enough that can reset it to stock then drive it there on LPG. the gas convertor has a sensor in it that wont let it switch over untill the water temp is at 40 deg or there abouts.

hey Hopeyz, yes the R34 injectors are 14mm, yes i do have the XR6T injectors but no i got mine off the Xr6T forums. only last weekend I installed these injectors. It was quite frustrating, but worth the $600 saving, although the car has not been tuned as of yet. If any 1 follows part or all of what i suggest dont blame me if you catch fire/mame you or any 1 else etc etc etc things you will need- 3 off packs of bosch plugs (2 in each pack) ACA brand p/n BK402 $13.00 Trade per pack pack 2 off spacers 20MM (wide) 12MM (thick) with a hole drilled 8.5MM $free I have access to a lathe 2 of M8x30 bolts free out of the bolt rack 1M 5/16 EFI hose $10.00 2x hose clamps to suith 5/16 hose 1x throttle body gasket (not needed if you don't break the 1 that is fitted) nissan P/N 16175-31U01 1x AAC valve gasket (not needed if you don't break the 1 that is fitted) nissan P/N 23785-AA001 1x "water connector" to remove air from cooling system. (mine was corroded closed) nissan FAST P/N 14875PB 1x tube of PBR rubber grease for O-rings lots of spanners screw drivers, skin on nuckels, soldering iron, heat shrink, pipe cutter, pipe flarer and most of all a huge amount of patience. a few key points cos i never took photo's. hind sight is a great thing. first thing remove items in marked in RED ie throttle body, strut brace, AAC valve, enginer cover bracket, FMIC fan cross over pipe and water connector. under the blue x's you will find things that if you unbolt now you will find it alot easier later on. ie the feed side of the fuel pressure regulator 2 10MM bolts from memory. Below the AAC valve attached to the side of the head is small bracket that has the wireing loom atttached to it. remove as it will foul on the fuel rail when you try and fit with longer injectors. next to the oil cap ( you can see it when the engine cover bracket is off) remove this bracket as it only makes removing/fitting the rail harder. get rid of any fuel pressure in the lines (if you don't know how to do this already, put your car back together and pay some 1 to fit Nismo's) remove feed side rubber hose from fuel rail (short hose at the rear of the fuel rail) just chop it with a knife and watch half a litre of fuel drain on your nice shed floor. its too dam hard and stiff to try and remove when fitted. unbolt fuel rail and lever up square, remove injectors first. remove fuel rail (lift up front end of rail at 45deg to motor and wiggle its way out) clean injector holes in manifold carefully ( i used a peice of copper pipe with the end flared to a tight fit on the machined o ring face. then blasted away with the air compresser) a peiced of sharp dowle to block the hole would also work. now using the dodgy FAST screen dump. now get your fuel rail and chop the center hose mounting tab off with the angle grinder(marked in red). (it fowls on the intake plenum when trying to fit injectors) the steel hard lines attached to rail marked in yellow need to be carefully bent back square with the rail ( you will see when trial fitting with an injector fitted, you will not be able to get the rail on the injector as the pipes will now hit the intake) cut the steel pipe marked in blue just after the 90 deg bend. put a flare on end of tube. use rubber grease slide efie tube around the elbow and put pipe clamp on (allows you to do it up away from the intake.) measure hose to the end of the fuel rail and cut to length replacing the stock small efi hose you cut earlier. solder on new injector plugs. put rubber grease on injector o rings and if all goes well you should be able to test fit the rail with your next injectors. I found putting the rail in and pushing 1 cm towards the firewall allowed me to fit the injectors and pull back towards the front and its should just drop in ontop of the injectors. then if thats all good bolt it all down with the spacers and get it retuned. there was alot of little things that gave me the shits along the way but the main things were spring clamps snapping and hoses going hard/ deteriating. best of luck to the next person. Chris

my car doesn't get any........... oh waits its on LPG

Good old Harill Rd ay................... I used to love/hate that road. I'm shocked this is the 1st time on that rd. 1 night i was tired not paying attention and hit the rail crossing at 80-90 in my honda and it sent me air born how i didn't roll i'll never know. I hope these ppl learn somthing from this.

boat yards or good auto sparkys

sorta like this?

sure have, its deka intimidator deep cycle. i think the size is what they class as a "34". as you can see i have a false floor to cover my LPG tank and amp's and it also locks the battery down at the same time. regards Chris

the options were always there, ppl often never look out side the box or only like name brand stuff like nismo or sard

hey, i'll take a set could you please PM bank accounts and cost for postage to perth. regards Chris

its now based out of Midland in WA to my knowledge. its a wicked peice of machinery hey

hey, not overly sure i got a for motor sitting in the shed that i was gonna raid when my old man wasn't looking. regards chris

I have a set of siemens 660cc injectors for mine, i'll let you know once my turbo goes on. these cost me $450 for the set as there to suit the XR6 Turbo's so you just need to change injector plugs over to match.

I am the Stig

i went the VSI on my R34, if i was to do it again i would deffinitly go liquid injection as there is alot less problems with gas converters and injector flow. regards chris

Hey I would have thought it would be more critical to worrry about the oil pump getting minced when bashing the limiter than lean outs

if you are running low boost why not go a stock RB25 turbo?

is it the steel part or the ceramic part? if its steel- I'd be getting a small magnet on a wire or rubbing a screw driver on a speaker magnet and then putting it down the spark plug hole. and hopefully u pick it up.

how bout a vq35 with a dirty big turbo like the Maytech drift car?

what is this "the clutch" thread or soming. i wanna know clearly the most important thing............. does it have a fully sick SPOOL sound? i can wait to get mine done. Chris

HEY awsome to see your results, I thought i had settled on the path that i was going to go down untill this post. I have practically the same setup except PFC and 650cc seimens injectors. I would love to see your dyno printout overlaying the RB25 highflow with the G3 profile that URAS tuned for SS8_GOHAN. any chance of some photo's of the install so I can compare the pro's and cons to both setups. (mods to piping) By any chance did you get any comments made about tuning the Seimens injectors? as i haven't installed mine yet regards Chris

Onesteel, atlas and Yellow pages and search for steel merchants

I removed the mufflers from my Apexi exaust and it made only a tiny difference. Even with no cat no resonators and only 1 small oval muffler at the back it was still quiet.

ok now, so now that is stated. my theory is IF you are chasing 250 RWKW in a R34 with a OP6 housing the best choice is to HIGHFLOW it. IF you do NOT have a OP6 your better off going a TR43G2. when i googled Hypergear i cam across a supra forum and i believe you were making a TR43G3. If so will that bring around 270Rwkw? regards Chris

i too like the Aero kit's but finding 1 is the hard part. hence I'm still looking

Damn i just want the side skirts. other then then East bear 1's the only other availble skirts are ugly. 2 thumbs up