urtwhistle

I found that the ducting was not entirely a good thing. So I left it sealed on the bottom & sides and left the top open.

There are downsides if you live in a hot place. Core material is more important than you think. Bar and plate cores will stop a lot of air getting to ur radiator compared to tube style. I run a bar/plate style core and my temp gauge starts creep up ever so slowly on a hot day and idle in traffic for ages

Yes it will alter your tune. Your fuel map references the airflow values vs load and that's how it knows how much fuel to throw in. If u have a wide band setup it's very easy to see how changing those values affects ur tune. Ie ur fuel map may say 14.7 afr reality is that it's 14.2 so u tune the corresponding afm voltage up or down till the fuel map matches reality.

I will be needing to get a decent wheel alignment for my R34 GTT and there are no decent wheel alignment places in Perth that I can drop the car off without telling them the exact specs I want it at. Last time I dropped it off to a well known company they set it up as a Nissan Bluebird. I was wondering if you had any basic settings that you would use to start off with on a street car that was to be taken round a track. Any help would be greatly affected. STOCK R34 GTT SETTINGS Front Camber: -1.00 Front Caster: 7.00 Front Toe: 0.00 Rear Camber: -0.5 Rear Toe: 2.00mm in on each side SAI: 9.00 I was thinking something along the lines of Front Camber: -1.5 Front Caster: 5.5DEG Front Toe: 1.5-2MM out TOTAL Rear Camber:-1 Rear Toe: 1MM IN EACH It has the old SYDNEYKID suspension setup. IE Bilstein shocks, whiteline springs, whiteline adjustable sway bars. JIC adjustable caster arms (front), Cusco adjustable toe arms (rear), Hicas eliminated & adjustable camber bushs in the front. Regards Chris

All I can say is I have one and yes there was a few minor issues. But my one was an early version and it is fantastic for the price.

wow they look good in white. I got a set that I painted the centres charcoal black. PS Don't change just 1 bolt on the rim you will throw the weights right out. and when I refurbed mine I noticed that the bolts were extremely light so god knows what they are made from.

Do u mean me? I'm running VCt with tomei cams

After 4 months of loosing interest in my skyline I finally put it back together today. And now that I have seen status's post I'm a wee bit excited since I'm running the same turbo on a Durty30. It should be wild based off those results

sounds good. Could you send me a PM when you get closer to getting them and send your bank details so I can transfer some moneys

Did you end up making more to suit r34 gtt's? If so ill take 1

Great cheers mate. Wear really isn't an issue as its not my daily.

but do you run them front and rear or just in the front?

Ok cheers

Hi just a quick question for you people. In looking to do a track day in my r34 gtt. It currently has Qfm hpx pads all round and I was planning on chucking in some a1rm pads in to make it a little more aggressive. Do you think the hpx's will be enough in the rear or do I need to swap them also . Cheers Chris

Compare to how you did it mine is extremely agricultural hahaha. I started with a piece of 5 or 6mm thick flat bar. drilled a hole in it to suit the stud. and progressivly ground it it down till it sat in the hole and gave the idler a flat surface to sit on. pretty time consuming really. You should scan your jig on an a4 piece of paper and attach it to SAU. that way people in future can print it out and trace it onto steel or what ever

hey thats much better than how I did it. Great job!!!! I hope you traced around it and saved a copy for future reference.

Yeah thats a fair point Dale. I just noticed it on the Greddy list and was curious thats all. In reality it would probly be more effort and lag than it was really worth.

Hey Dale, I already have a TD06sh-25G so I was thinking if it don't make enough power I might convert it to a TD07S-25G. I finally pulled my finger out and decided to fix my wastegate now that I don't melt when I walk into my shed . Seems all the info I find is where people have them on rotary's.

Has any one on here ran a TD07S-25G before?

Only way I can think of with out pulling it down or installing it in your car is to put it on an engine dyno. sort the cam timing issues out (every 1 has them) and do a compression test. It will tell you if its high or low comp at least. nothing else

Really? wow I never thought you would chew through that much that quickly. I'm not really sure how big the jets or how many your running or the pressure that they are getting. From my experience with mining mixing equipment some times your better off getting a spray that will create a proper mist/fog rather than a big spray that will cause droplets. But to acheive it you would probly need a decent high pressure pump

hahah with 20L you could run a sprinkler hahahahah

Bye bye traction at any thing over idle hahahaha

if that fails Precission shims are great to deal with too

This might be a dumb question as I don't have a silvia but can a RB25 gb be fitted with out it fouling? If so that would also mean you would also have to chop the tunnel in a skyline?