urtwhistle

I also think Mercury was the 1's that drowned Harold Holt too.

My dad swears by putting Molybdenum powder on every thing. But then again he hasn't realised that things have changed since the 70's. he even puts it in the engine oil. As much as I love the stuff I hate touching it cos the slightest dot seems to spread every where when you get it on your skin.

I have seen this done some where before. nearly exactly the same as you have described. I think it was in a Aston martin though. The made the Y piece and tubes from Fiber glass or carbon so that they could get it the way they wanted it.

Stao, I hope you didn't take offence to my comments as it was never intended to. I was simply saying that his dyno print was low but so was mine. But I will say this, I spent alot of money trying to get that setup to work BETTER (don't get me wrong it wasn't bad by any means) and the best it ever did was around 370 (timing fixed, AFM fixed, poncam's, side pipe, wastegate actuator's etc, EGT sensors & a AFR setup) I just think it was too small for the 3L and choked it with any more than about 18psi rammed in it. For me the TD06SH-25G is a better match for my current setup. As a test we are fitting my old 3576 to a mates Rb20 silvia so it will be very interesting to see how it reacts to a smaller cap motor. regards Chris

Thats right mate.

also Msports used hyperdrive's dyno. which doesn't correspond to any thing I ahve seen on the east coast. For example my car on hyperdrives with a rb30 made way less peak power then stao's rb25 with MY turbo by miles. the only thing that could be compared was the boost plot and the curve at how it made power.

Hey Simon, I got a Kando TD06H-25g with the biggest houseing they make on my neo 25/30. It's not tuned above 5000rpm cos I need to replace my wastegate ( I'm not doing it untill my new 4wd arrives). To compare I had a Hypergear Gt3576 that made about 370rwhp on Ultimate 98 on Hyperdrive's dyno (In WA). With my rev limit set at 4500rpm I think I could safely say that the new kando turbo is massivly more powerful and massively more responsive. I have herd of people running T67's on 3L's but I honestly reckon that it would be happier with the slightly bigger TD06H-25G. But that all being said my car isn't fully tuned so I ahve no idea when it will stop making power.

it certainly would be easier. when I did mine it was cos I stuffed up and forgot to check until after I had machined the block. It's not rocket surgery though to make a tapered washer. I mean I work in an office these days and if I can do it any one can hahaha

yeah my car has been running for about 10 thou k's. sorry I went through all my pics and I got nothing. Well you still need to mount a tensioner above the water pump on the intake side of the motor even if you use the washer on the exhaust side.

I made up a tapered washer sort of thing with a peice of 5mm plate and kept on grinding it untill it gave the idler a flat surface to sit on.

so about $75 Aud

I once attempted to start mine with 2x 4ga cable and it would barely turn over. 2 gauge is a bare min in my oppinion. regards Chris

well the first thing I would think to check is the big cam's your running. 2nd are the pistons 9:1 with a 26 head? 2nd are the cams dialled in perfectly? has any porting of the chamber been done. cos that would lower the compression a fair bit.

hhahaha yeah you should have seen the guy who built the shafts face when I walked in on Monday after picking it up on the friday. We then freighted the shafts from Perth to Brissy I think it was as Spicer wanted to see it before they would warrant any of it. They claimed that I must have had the wheels locked up or something. Then claimed it was impossible to smash both the front uni and the rear at the same time. But yeah they refused to warranty it so I gave them the finger and the guy that made the shaft met me half way on making a single. Drive shaft balancing service's in Malaga. They are a good bunch of guys too. The funny part was the yoke's didn't break even after machining them to suit the spicer uni's but the centre's crumbled. PS it was 3500rpm launch in a 350hp R34 gtt. on crappy 235's

funny you say spicer. I rebuilt my stock 2 peice with spicer uni's and the first pop of the clutch it shattered 2 of them. So I went a big single shaft which give the car a slight vibration about 110-120kph. I have come to the conclusion that it must be something to do with the harmonic's of the shaft at that rpm.

oh k cheers for the heads up with the price. Yeah my car is turning into less of a street car every day.

Say if you blew up a R34 gtt gb and had to do a clutch change at the time would it be safe to assume that one of these would be a good thing to swap into it? Ie would it be cheaper to convert to one of these box's with a normal style clutch?

Hey MSports what size gate did you end up using? I have to change mine to suit a bigger gate cos I'm spiking from 4500 and above witht the durty 30 with about 20psi worth of springs fitted. I used a Turbosmart 40mm gate.

I used Briffa in Malaga and he was great.

Yeah there amazing in the wet in comparison to my old KU31's which are a plain jane street tire.

very possible because its not common to use the standard lower idler points. esp when you notice that 1 is an idler and 1 is a tensioner. On my 3025 I had to use 2 tensioners. 1 above the water pump.

thats a 25, a 30 block would have 30mm gap between the top of the water pump and the head.

hahahah yeah she is plenty loud enough, it only runs a cannon but I mean I only hear them with the windows down and slowing down for the lights etc kinda reminds me of the sound of a 4wd with mud tires hahaha. Simon your right though when I first fitted them come out of the shop blipped the throttle and wheel spin then GRIPPPPPPPPP

Hey, well the LMGT1's are a 3 peice rim. Inner, outer and the hub centre section.

hahhaha yeah I ment the Patrol, I wasn't paying attention when I left my work at the other end of the street and nearly drove into it lol. I'm real bright some arvo's hahahah