urtwhistle

Hey Msports was that your tractor with the tilt trailer parked on Vale st this arvo?

I got a pair of 265 18's the other day to test out and wow what a massive increase in grip compared to my crappy Ku31's or K104's. But they are a bit noisy.

I think alot of people also forget things like having to replace all the steel pressed in water fittings that come off the block. and I'm not talking about the welch plugs. All the rubber lines that are under the intake or run to the heater core that once the engine is fitted is near on impossible to replace.

If I was to do it all again. I would send my head to RIPS and get him to return it fully assembled and take the hit on the dollars. I actaully think it would end up being very similar money in the long run with alot less pain and tears.

Why would you even bother converting it all to use a 26 head? I used the neo head and the only down sides to the NEO head is that you don't have as large choice in cam's that you could possibly use, you cant directly bolt on twin turbo's and the 26 intake manifold. In most cases you will find that the Neo head is actually better then the 26 head. If it was my car I would be selling the 26 head and replacing it with a neo head and saving your self a world of pain and money.

mine was pretty stuck on too after 90thou k's. and cos i'm only a wee fella i used my engine crane and spreader beam to lift it ever so slightly and it just popped off. but yeah don't forget the 3 little 10mm bolts. personally tho I wouldn't refit the front 10mm. If that's not fitted then in future if ever have to remove the head again (like I did) You can then take pull it off with out having to remove the cam pulleys and covers etc. just my 2cents.

The T67 should do 400 easy. I sure am getting sick of the anti surge whistle on mine. I now answer the question about the whistle b4 my friends ask what the noise is lol

interesting coil setup on the 26.

if yours only takes 4 bolts then I think its missing the cradle also lol. I think its gonna be a LOT cheaper to swap the whole block out in 1 go. rather then pull it apart

The only people I have herd of ever doing this to a GTR were doing it for a drag car. I think it would be horribly expensive to do. Why do you want a GTR out of all cars available. Why I ask is that my good friend is in a chair also. He started off with Prelude and that was C**T of a thing for him to get his chair into. He ended up selling the bastard thing out of frustration. He then went onto a v8 statesman and wrapped that around a power pole. then a supercharged calais. Finally he has got a new GTi golf and it is the pick of the bunch. its easier to drive, easier to get a cripple conversion done (every thing is off the shelf ex Europe) and easier for him to get his chair into the car by him self. I'm not saying not to do it but if you did I think your setting your self up for a world of pain, financially and in day to day life. But thats just my oppinion. Chris

I have used Exhaust gas technology gear in the past and its dam good and there also have quick delivery.

Hahahha in that case Sean is going to hate me in the morning hahahahahah

Pretty much what I did too Hanaldo. the best part about this method is that the engine aint running and you can actually hear, see and feel where there leaking from. I used an old shiny cricket ball jammed in a joiner just before the throttle body and pvc fitting with a hole drilled into in the intake before the turbo . (PS make sure you clamp it though. 25psi behind a cricket ball with a nice big intercooler fires a cricket ball out damn fast!!!)

no probs will do. Its going on the dyno next Friday to test some thing else but that will also answer the spiking question. It seems to be holding and no where near as violent but I aint keen on thrashing it on the street to confirm.

I had the boost ref hooked up to the intake just before the throttle body. now its hooked up off the compressor housing. I will know if I have fixed it soon

Hey mate I think my problem has been partially fixed by moving the boost ref to the compressor housing. But I haven't put it on a dyno yet to confirm it.

I have a similar issue using a 40mm compgate. But I think that may be partly due to it having a Rb30. I'm going to test the theory of moving the boost reference point to the compressor housing. If that doesn't work I'm going to try winding the boost up to say 25psi see if that helps. If that also doesn't work I guess I'm going to need to change it for a 45 or 50mm gate.

My best friend is in this movie as a fireman. He runs through the screen to put out the fire when he has a crash.

What I did to get around this problem was cut the brack and fit the pump right up top. I then annealed some copper pipe so that it was nice and soft ( about 400mm of it) flared 1 end of it with a tube flaring tool. using a Jic fitting on the bottom of the pump I then bent the tube by hand so that the fuel pickup is bassicly on the very bottom of the tank and about 150mm towards the front of the car. The gain is that you can run the car almost dry before it will get fuel surge, the problem is that I don't run a fuel filter before the pump. Regards Chris

Cheers Kitto, I dont feel any where near as bad as I originally did..

to be honest I decided to leave it as it was.

Hey I looked up quaife and they list a centre for the R200 but its roughly the same price as buying a Cusco. which I don't want to pay 1000-1200 for.

Your both thinking along the same lines. They are used on some 4wd's. I have herd that they do destroy them self if you get extreme wheel hop. A mate has 1 behind his 5L that is pretty much a skid pig and it is unreal how smooth it is at locking up and damn predictable at flicking it around corners. Harrop make alot of kits for Falcadores that use Truetrac's so they can't be rubbish. They don't list any thing for the R200 but thats not to say that it can't be done. I will try and ask the diff builder who is doing a mates 4wd.

Out of curiosity have any of you ever herd of some 1 fitting a EatonTrueTRAC into a R200? A mate has one of these in his IRS Falcadore and he swears by it. They are massivly cheaper than some of the Jap brand diffs.

I been quietly following your convo cos I been thinking about doing this. Not sure if it helps any 1 but I quickly knocked up the attached spread sheet. You only have to update the yellow cells to suit your config and it should tell you what you want to know. GEAR CALCULATOR.xls