urtwhistle

do what I did ( I have a PFC) Fit a r33 throttle body. remove R33 TPS sensor, fit your old R34 TPS sensor. To keep the ecu happy and remove the lights off the dash get your 2nd R34 TPS sensor for the traction control. Remove the little spring that moves the tab. Then read the sensor voltage through the PFC and move the tab uptill you see the default voltage where the traction control is off and super glue the tab in position. Some call me agricultural but hey it works.

ahhhhhhh cheers for the heads up. Yours really is close to the manifold. I'm pretty sure I can get my gate up a fair bit closer to the manifold. if not whats your feeling on me replacing the 40mm pipe with say a 50mm pipe while still using a 40mm gate.

Cheers Roy, actually no I don't have a pic but I'll take 1 tommrow. My manifold looked just like this 1 but we actaully extended the waste gate pipe about 50-100mm to put the waste gate into a more user friendly spot. Maybe that was a mistake also.

well I dropped mine off for tuning today. Bit of let down really but nothing super bad. Turns out my AFM is too close to the turbo and is causing it to be a pain the ass. The real issue was that it was spiking uncontrollably. ASG told me to change how the waste gate merges with the collector on the manifold. Does any 1 have any input on how it should be changed. The manifold is 1 of the NZ steel 1's from the other thread. and the gate is a Compgate 40. Chris

they probly use the same pic for the 7.8 as the 8.5's

This is what I used on my first Rb30 6MKRY9608 http://www.aclperformance.com.au/NissanRB30ETForgedPistons.htm and these on the 2nd build. that and there like $800.00 from the US or like 1200 if you buy them in Aus. NIS264405i05 http://www.us.mahle.com/C1256F7900537A47/vwContentByKey/W26HSFB8505STULEN/$FILE/2010%20AP%20complete.pdf

with standard cams it made about 400rwhp. But I hope to make a fair bit more on the new 1 when it gets tuned. with 260deg cams I get about 160psi give or take 10+-

should go damn well too. I was running a hypergear GT3576 with about 15psi into it but I have ripped that off to go a TD06H-25G with about similar PSI to you.

Hey theres nothing wrong with using a neo head I know I have. I used ACL 8.5:1 pistons on my 1st motor and Mahle 8.5:1's on my second. On the second I decked the head and also decked the block to a 0 deck height. standard nissan rb25 head gasket & I also run BP98 with no problems. I don't think you will have any problems unless your trying to put 65 psi of boost into it. but hey thats just my experience so far.

All I have to say to that is "SOLD" lol

Ahhh true that, and yeah your probably right about the housings now that I think of it.

Hey Scott this aint the truck turbo thats staying on it, I only fitted the truck GT3782 for giggles to see if the bonnet would close and kill my curiosity. This is a Kando TD06H-25G with a billit compressor with TD07 comp cover and 12cm rear but like you, I'm also quite confident that it will flow more than enough through a 3" cover

only 1 way to find out. it won't be hard to change the housing to a 4" if that is the case.

Ahhhh cheers that makes sense. Well I guess we will have to wait and see what happens when it gets tuned next Tuesday. It will be very interesting to overlay with Simon's results as it will be the same tuner, same dyno but with a durty 30 spooling it

I'm wondering if I will have the same issues with mine then. I got a TD06H 25G with 3" anti surge housing. I',m wondering if I should have gone 4" from what your saying

interesting. is this for all of the anti surge housings?

WOW 3500 to 4500 will be fun lol.

its very easy to do. Drill out the thread. weld tabs onto the head of 3 bolts to stop the bolt spinning and put nuts on the outside of the pulley. it's not rocket surgery

Jeez was that ASG Simon? I saw your post saying you were getting it done and I was looking out my office window all day waiting for it but I never did. That was obviously on ethonol again? I can't wait for mine to be tuned now seeing that.

I took the POS for it's maiden voyage. and all I have to say HOLY S**T BALLS. These turbo's sound like jet engines with the surge slots and wow I didn't expect it to have masses more bottom end then my old turbo esp when it's bigger. MUST GET TUNE ASAP!!!!!

Hey Jez, nah I did about 2/3 of the manifold, the whole Ext gate dump and about half of the turbo dump. I had to remove a bit on the manifold to get the nuts onto the studs onto the flange, I might fix it later but at the sec I just wanted to know if it would start. I reckon I did alright for a "pen pusher" with soft paper handling hands as my mates would call me.

well it finally started but I could only find a crappy peice of tube to connect for the Idle valve and it kept kinking so it would barely idle. But other than that about friggen time.

PS mine will be started tonight for it's maiden voyage. fingers crossed

oh yeah forgot bout that. We cut the port about 100mm from the bottom and put a small angle on it more toward the motor so the waste gate was in a better position

Hey people I thought I might give some hint's to fitting 1 of these manifolds to save you all a lot of screwing around. I actaully think it would be the same for any aftermarket manifold tho so it's not directed solely at this 1. PS this is on my R34 GTT 1. Make sure every single stud is threaded into the head as far as physically possible. (see step 3 for reasons why) 2. IF your motor is on an engine stand (you lucky bas%%rd because it will be sooo much easier to do) fit the manifold onto the head and put all the nuts and washer on and check that all of the washers clamp down flat on the manifold. I had about 3 that wouldn't because the weld on the flange/runner ran too close. I couldn't be bothered removing every thing for the 4th time So ground a small chamfer on those few washers. But I could have ground the weld quicker if I had checked right from the beginning. 3. The bottom bolts are an a**hole of a job to first get the washer's and nuts onto to start with than get with a spanner. I personally if I had the time to kill I would actually trim the bottom studs 5mm shorter as it would have saved my bloody nuckels and therefore I wouldn't have had a problwith trying to get all the bottom washer's on without the nuts trying to not knock all the washers off prior to screwing the nuts on. 4. cylinder 5 bottom stud deffinitly needs to be shortend 5mm on mine as it actually contacts the runner as it bends down and past the stud. which is a major pain in the a$$ when you finally get it all on and the gasket compresses. 5. Do not wrap the 1st inch of the runners in heat wrap or you wont be able to get the washers onto the studs and you will swear alot. I know my neighbours now hate me. 6. there is alot of welding slag & swarf in the manifold that you don't want flying through turbo. What I did was get a strong but bendy peice of wire and wrap a rag onto it and thread it through each runner which will pull off any loose bits then blow it out with a compresser. 7. I personally think the manifolds should be made in either T3 or T4 not both. The hole in the flange is then a really odd size which gaurentee's the turbo will need to be port matched my a country mile. 8. I personally also think that the head flange bolt holes are too large and give too much slop and therefore too much chance of miss alignment. I think they should be closer to 2mm larger to studd OD instead of what it is. I would have prefered to have had to notch the odd hole with a die grinder than be sloppy. Other than points 7&8 for the price it is a fantastic product.