urtwhistle

PS does any 1 know of any suppliers that make harness bars for R34's

As requested here is some pics of my turbo on the manifold.

incorrect the TD06H has a different turbine wheel and is a higher flowing version. and yes you are correct I got him to supply it fitted and balanced with the billet compressor.

Hey Dale, they don't list an actual turbo in the exact spec. I asked for 1 to be supplied with the following specs. it cost me $949.00 delivered http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280835951624&ssPageName=ADME:X:eRTM:AU:1123 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-3-V-Band-Turbo-Dump-Pipe-Adapter-TRUSTs-3-Bolt-Flange-TD06-20G-T67-25G-/280863726303?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4164c85adf http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-7075-AL-T67-25G-TD07S-25G-Extra-30-airflow-/290701938903?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43af2f90d7

ahhh fair call. yeah I chose to stick 3" for ease of modding my existing piping.

I tend to disagree, I asked that prior to ordering and they said that the TD07 comp cover to suit a 25G was larger then a TD06 cover to suit a 25g. not saying your wrong, but maybe the seller is misguided. But I'm not convinced that he is.

Yay got my turbo in the post today Dale, will take some pics with it bolted on the manifold soon. I have posted some of it unbolted with a ruler showing its size in the Kando thread if its of interest. I'm actually shocked its not bigger really.

Hey peoples finally got my turbo. Will take some more pics with it bolted onto the manifold when I get 5Mins. The turbo is a Billet TD06SH-25G. 12CM turbine housing, TD07 comp housing with 3" anti surge.

I'm too lazy to write a build thread. That and this motor has been together for over a year but I would write a spec list for the dyno sheet thread. The turbine housing is a 12cm btw and I'm using a turbosmart compgate. I have no idea if it will be big enough though

I don't sorry. If I did I would have fitted it permantly. But when my new turbo shows up I'll measure that up properly. which should be mildly relevant for you. Its a TDO6H in TD07 housing's and I can't see a 3582 being smaller then it.

yeh it was only fitted out of curiosity and was taken off 2 mins later. it is a Scannia spec twin scroll GT3782 in a large frame spec. it will probly end up coverted to a GT3788 for an XR6T. I'm using a TD06SH-25g when it shows up. it also probly sits so high cos its on a RB30 and its a large frame turbo.

Hey for those interested. This is what a GT3782 looks like when fitted to a Rb3025 in a R34. the bonnet only touches when pushing it down on the 2nd click of the bonnet latch.

Balancing in the east must be cheap as chips then.

my apologies, I was under the impression that they were an odd ball size that was physically smaller also. I should have measured my Scania spec 3782 rather than making statements lol.

You might save $100 but you then need to assemble and balance the turbo. So I would get a price on balancing it prior to buying it in peices.

that and a GT37 is actually smaller on the turbine side than a GT35

Hey Trent you know you want to!!! I ordered a TD06H-25g 12cm with billet wheel and TD07 compressor cover. I would love to see how different they would end up being between the 2 cars.

sounds good, no word yet so let me know what your details are via PM

throttle body sorted. cheers

Hello, I am chasing a radiator shroud for my R34 GTT. I would imagine that most of them are the same though. I am also chasing a R33 throttle body so that I can throw away my big ugly 1 off my R34 GTT. Please send me a message if you have either. regards Chris

Hey fella, still got the shroud?

MS paint to the rescue!!!!

welding a nut on will not help as they are studs that have splines on them and are larger at the back side so that they can't pull through the brake disc or spacer. Daleo is thinking exactly the same lines as I am.

worst case is that you cut them off and replace all the wheel studds. All depends on how confident you are with 5" grinder and a cutting disc. I would personally cut the studds off flush with the spacer then cut down through the front face through middle of the stud and the funky locking things. once you split the lock it should come off easy. At the expense of the studs tho. some thing tells me that if there locked up that much you would probly want to replace the studs any way. regards Chris

ummmmmmm that aint overly correct Kasko. you need to remove the coolant bleed screws or you will never actually get all the air out.