urtwhistle

hey I would rather a slight tick and the valve being closed rather then some 1 not knowing how to do it properly and shimming them too much so that they now don't close 100%. Thats just my take on it though. that and unless it sounds like a chaff cutter I wouldn't do mine ever again. just saying

I have TD06H-25G 12cm with billet compressor wheel coming soon which will be mounted on 1 of those nice cheap NZ manifolds. should be interesting to see how it goes on a RB3025.

sooooooooo its not the size of the hole its the way you use it lol the more I think about this the more it makes sense why my car ran hotter with it completely ducted with the radiator fully sealed.

Sold!!! send me Pm with your bank details mate and I'll transfer some money's. You don't mind posting to Perth do you? i'll just add an extra $20 whcih should cover it.

I'll try and remember to take a photo of mine. I did mine out of pure curiosity. I made it from cheap high density foam rubber and used elephant snott to glue it to the back of the inter cooler so that I could easily pull it out later on. On a 40 deg day I was driving (plodding) around with it sealed on 4 sides and my warning light on my gauges was going off as it was set at 100deg. I removed the top peice only and the water temp dropped by about 5-6 deg when idling at the lights so just enough to stop the warning light flashing. What I noticed while looking at a race car was that they used guides on the bottom and sides. On the top they ran 2 guides. 1 ran 90 deg to the top of the intercooler to radiator and the 2nd routed air over the top of the intercooler into the top 1/4 of the radiator. that was in a s14 though. regards Chris

I found that with my R34 when I sealed the gap around my intercooler to radiator on all 4 sides that the car ran hotter. So I ended up removing the top piece then it ran cool once again. So therefore I think you might be right about the barge board theory.

I have been recommended a TD06H-25G with a 12CM housing

holy crap cake, that 30 would be devestatingly quick for a traffic light warrior with soo much torque at those sort of rev's. I'm deffinitly sold that if I'm replacing my turbo it has to be a TD06H-25G or bigger. KD do make TD07 and TD08 turbo's so no reason they can't make a T78. probly just have to ask to have them to list 1 on ebay or the shop front. they Listed other things after I asked them questions on selling parts.

Hey Ash, I currently have fitted to my RB30 a hypergear bush bearing 3576 which is laggy for some reason unknown to me. (it's currently at a well known shop here in Perth getting a look over with a fresh set of eyes to see if I have stuffed up some where on the build). The GT3782 I'm not 100% sure if its BB or bush, thats 1 thing I have never noticed or checked. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out. Also to my knowledge it isn't a port shrouded cover. If I remember I'll measure the shaft size and figure out some more specs and see what it options there are for converting it to something more useful. Let me know if the pics don't load and I'll reattach them again http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=msg&attach_id=371535 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=msg&attach_id=371536 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=msg&attach_id=371537

Hey Dale, see the attached compressor map. I must have deleted the copy where I plotted my RB30 on it. But even with a Rb20 its pretty rubbish with the trim compressor trim. regards Chris

well I have the turbo sitting on my shelf. Its off an 8lt Scania LPG bus. But after plotting out the flows to make any sort of power it was way out of it's efficency zone due to the diesel trim. Part of me wants to rip the 82mm wheel off and put an 88mm wheel and a normal exhaust housing on it since I already have the turbo. The other half is saying buy a TD06H 25G and put the 3782 on a mates diesel Patrol or Land cruiser which it would be more suited to. So many choices, so little money.

Hey mate, was that target at me? Cos around Xmas time I sent you an email about a GT3782 and we sent a few emails back and forward. If not i'm curious to see whom else is playing with these turbo's. PS i was gonna fit it on a Rb30.

soming tells me that your car has a different dash to what it originally had in it. my 100 thou neo had way less wear on the lifters then that. And yes normally they do have an oil restrictor in the VCT. The question is, has the head come off before and has some 1 already put restrictors in it.

Will you be interested in packing it and dispatching it to WA? IE if your work uses many couriers or freight companies. I could organise for it to be picked up directly as long as you packed it. Is the manifold a standard T3? once I get my car back from the shop with there diagnosis I'll send you a message and see if you still have it. PM me if you want. regards Chris

Hell yeah cheers Trent. 400kw sounds like plenty for my liking ahaha I think I'll take 1 of those thank you very much

Hey Trent, you wouldn't be able to post a dyno print would you? showing the boost response preferably. I don't care if there a kando or a Trust version. what would be your personal preference on a street driven Rb30 with a goal of upto 350RWKW? T67-25G, TD06H-25G, TD07S-25G or any other affordable config. regards Chris

Yeah very true Roy, it is pretty amazing value for money. The problem with the GTX turbo's is the price. That is a major turn off. But maybe I should do a little further research into them.

wow 2k, I never realized thats what the Trust branded 1's were worth. I was thinking of offering you what a KD was worth lol. When you look at the turbo on a side profile, I'm amazed that the tiny little turbine housing flows what they do. Since you have played with these turbo's so much whats your opinion for a 3L & TD06H-25G with 3",3" port shrouded & 4" inlets. what housing would you choose? Would there be any advantage that you can think of by using the TD07S housing version's of the same turbo? cheers for your help.

wats even more odd is that it was 10v and yeah like you said you would think it should be between 14-15V

Hey Roy, what size housings you got on the TD06SH-25g? if you wanna get rid of it let me know.

Hey guys, yeah when I was testing with the multimeter I never actually earthed to the chassis on either pin. I was measuring voltage between the two pins on the plug. Therefore from that it would be pretty safe to assume that its earthing constantly. Doesn't matter any way cos the cars in the shop and I can't test it. Cheers for all your help guys, it was very helpful.

Hey Rob I did that as mentioned in my 1st post I removed the VCT plug and applied power directly to the solenoid and it clicked as it should have. I measured the voltage at the plug @ idle and it had 10v but I couldn't get it to trigger and go any higher. which with out rigging the multimeter up and driving around was all that I can tell. But it has got me thinking, Rolls said that the VCT solenoid earths through the ecu. so therefore I wonder if he is possibly wrong on the part that it should always be seeing current. normally with solenoid's or coils there either on or off. supplying current all the time would just create heat especially if its neither on or off. But all this really doesn't matter because its now at JPC for them to look at and find the problem.

I think it would work also Jez, but I don't have 1 and I'm dropping the car off to JPC in the morning. So I'm just going to write them a list of things to check

Hi roy, I don't think so, Well I know I aint any way. The pics would be great.

power FC Jez