urtwhistle

I think people also overlook the major benefit's of the good Ol bush bearing turbo. Unlike a ball bearing turbo you can give them allot more of a hard time b4 they die. BB turbo's will die from the tinyest bit of contamination. but a bush bearing will will survive a fair bit b4 it dies. There cheaper by a fair bit and once spooled deliver exactly the same results as there BB cousin. and lets be honest really how much of a difference in spool time is there between a BB and bush turbo? About a bee's D1ck!!!

Welcome to Western Australia, sorry to hear mate.

Are you still running the RB25? because I would imagine 99% of Guil-toys's problems would have been due to running a Rb3025 like me. which means that unlike a RB25 you most often are required to run 2 tensioners instead of 1 tensioner and a idler. IE on a 25/26 you only have 1 side to cause you greif. Unlike the 30 where you gotta try and balance tightening the timing belt with 2 tensioners while keeping the cams in the correct position in relation to the crank. Well that was my issue with my rb30 any way. If you do have a 25, I would say your probly right about either the cam timing being out or even the CAS sensor being done incorrectly. like the 1st time I did my motor. I some how managed to time the motor off the wrong wire going to the coils instead of going straight at the #1 coil and the motor was about 10-15 degree's out and drove like an absolute dog.

All I can say in my limited experience. Is buy a pair of Deutch plug crimpers ( I think there are 3 different sizes so be careful). Now make a friend who is an autosparky for earth moving equipment and or truck trailers like I have. Get him to buy all the deutch plugs at about 1/5th the price that any normal person can buy them/ sells them. (a plug I was quoted $15 bucks for cost him about $3-4) make sure you get some good quality side cutters and good quality wire strippers, good quality heat shrink and a tube dielectric grease. (all the things your new mate can source for a fraction of the price you can) last step invite your mate around for a bbq on a Saturday and explain to him that your a little confused on how to use the crimpers correctly and that you need about 2 dozen examples b4 you will get it right. Your car is now rewired lol the 2 companys that my mate deals with are below. http://www.connectsource.com.au/ http://www.genr8.net.au/ YOUR WELCOME Chris

I had to use a impact driver also, but I replaced my screws with inhex csk cap screws. heaps easier if you ever have to get them out again.

I personally used Mahle 8.5:1 Rb30 pistons from the US. shaved the block 20thou to get a 0 deck height. The head was skimmed to make sure it was flat and using a standard nissan head gasket and to my knowledge I don't have any issues with excess comp and pulls like a freight train in it's midrange (I haven't given it a good hiding since it's only street tuned to about 5krpm)

the problem that I was having was that I would set the target AF to 9:1 and it still would be too lean and was forced to fix it.

what type of clutch are you running? I got a 8 puck carbotic with 4000lb pressure plate. now that gives a wicked jud jud jud feeling through the car if I slip the clutch.

Hi Nathan, yeah I been playing around a little. It's actually pretty good now to tell you the trueth. I will play with it more once I return from India with my new cams. Cheers for the offer tho

its probly the same reason my target afr's were odd. set the cells on your injection map where the car idle's to 14.7. Then open the monitor screen and check the Airflow meter voltage at idle. Now once you know what the AFM voltage is go to tab 3 where you will see the airflow curve's. IF z32 is third AFM selection down then look down at curve 3 which is below it. now scroll across to the corresponding voltage that matchs to what your car does at idle. NOTE* My car idles with a AFM voltage between 1.18 and 1.2volts. now increase the value by a few points and update your pfc while logging with your wide band and keep doing this untill your target AFR is the same or very close to your actuale AFR. IS that clear as mud?

So I did a simple test by just setting the bottom 6x6 of the map to 9:1 from around 11.5 and it dropped the AFR's from 12.4 to about 11. So the fuel pump might just be ok. but will do a proper test later on. I think I just needed to be more agressive with airflow curve above 3.5v

I do realize that there would a portion of fuel that would no be getting consumed by the motor. But what it would tell me is if the fuel pump is almost stalling at those pressures at the very least. unfortunatly I don't have a dyno in my shed, but good point on the remote fuel pressure gauge. That is something that I do have. sounds like a job for when I return from work in India with my nice new 260 poncams.

Yeah true, thats exactly how I was gonna test it. like you said with a bucket and apply 20psi to the pressure reg with my air compressor. if nothing or only a little comes out I know theres some thing wrong.

Hey Trent, cheers for pointing me in the direction of that tune. It was very handy to compare how others have set it out. I copied the fuel map to experiement with but I think I may have found another issue that I was over looking. When it's making full boost it doesn't seem to be richening up as much as it should be so I think the craptacular walbro fuel pump is running out of flow. But I'll confirm that soon but I hope not cos I really really don't wanna have to strip my stereo out to get access to it.

Does any 1 want to share there Inj map so that I can have a quick gander at what they used as a target AFR's across the board? Would I be correct in saying that every car would need a slightly different airflow curve?But for the most part the target afr or inj map would stay pretty much the same. For example my car is a neo RB3025 with a GT3576 and z32 AFM. it would have a different airflow requirements to a RB25 with a GT3576 and z32 AFM due to the extra capacity. But the fuel map would be quite similar. I obviously did it the other way by using the standard airflow curve and tuning the inj map to compensate. So once I get the idea through my head of how it works, I might start slightly tweaking it via the airflow curve. regards Chris

Does any 1 want to share there Inj map so that I can have a quick gander at what they used as a target AFR's across the board? Would I be correct in saying that every car would need a slightly different airflow curve?But for the most part the target afr or inj map would stay pretty much the same. For example my car is a neo RB3025 with a GT3576 and z32 AFM. it would have a different airflow requirements to a RB25 with a GT3576 and z32 AFM due to the extra capacity. But the fuel map would be quite similar. I obviously did it the other way by using the standard airflow curve and tuning the inj map to compensate. So once I get the idea through my head of how it works, I might start slightly tweaking it via the airflow curve. regards Chris

ahhh very interesting, that explains alot. I never really understood fully why the air flow curve was not a linear relationship, ie airflow to voltate. But now it makes a little more sense. Trent, what is the best way to actually setup an airflow curve. do you set the fuel map to represent the target AFR first, then slowly tweak the corresponding Air flow load points. until the target afr matchs the actual afr? regards Chris

those prices make me cry knowing what I paid for mine a few years back lol

Sorry for the slow reply, I too don't understand why ppl class tuning as a dark art. If you have the correct equipment, patience and be very slow and methodical it can't be that difficult. obviously experience helps immensly. Thanks for the heads up about the EGT temps, what temps are you guys targeting at MBT? And very valid points on dropping timing and fueling it up on any cells that arn't used. I might have to do a log whilst dragging the brakes and see what I get. I have tryed to only touch setting from 0-4500 rpm as that is all I have been driving in. Johnny, since posting the last "current" tune I have actually copied the enrichment settings from Room42's map and it appears to drive alot nicer to what the original settings were. If I get a chance tonight I'll do some traces for you as mentioned and you can all tell me what you think. oh and finally pulled my finger out now that I know its not going to explode and have been talking to Steve Thomas who does ALOT of the west aussy race car's and will eventually be getting him to fine tune it.

Cheers for your help guys. Yeah well thats the thing I told the machine shop ( a very reputable 1, who apparently had built heaps of big power RB's) to basicly go to town on the block the first time as it was the 1st Rb motor that either my father or I had ever touched. I stupidly told them that if the tunnel needs doing, then do it. As much as I sound like I'm bitching and moaning (which I am) it has been an extremely educational and expensive process. And with what I know now, I think I could safely build another Rb30det motor for probably half the price of what the 1st cost me. I just don't want to tho As you said Mr Elite, it's knowing who the professionals are. Alot of people in the west claim to be and charge the professional rate. But when it comes to it some times you end up with the apprentice doing the work on your car. Which don't get me wrong isn't a problem aslong as there supervised and there work is checked over. END OF RANT If any 1 knows of some 1 who would love a freshly machined motor (but needs line boring) they can have it for a very very good price. It would be perfect for a drysumped motor. I personally would hesitate putting a normal oil pump on it now that the crank has been moved upwards by as much as it would need to be. Thats if you didn't slot the dowl holes on the oil pump and rear main seal to compensate for it (which I think is opening you up for too much to go wrong with the known exploding oil pump history). The three things I fell in love with over the last 6 months are. My dads 2 post car hoist, Toyota BLACK sump sealant (that stuff will seal nearly any thing) and finally my mates engine brace. It goes across the top of the engine bay from strut to strut where you hook it onto the front engine sling point, take the weight off the engine mounts. Then drop the whole front cross member. It makes fixing a leaky sump seal easy as pie to do with out removing the motor.

amongst many many other things Nathan, and technically there was 5 big ends and 4 mains that were wrecked, the big ends were completely delaminated. I can't honestly blame it all on the tune though as the machine shop that did the block for me the 1st time also line bored it but line bored it 13thou out end for end. IE higher at the rear if the block to the front. and I on;y picked up on that after it had failed and re machined the whole block for the 2nd time and prepped it for over 50tho OS pistons and thought hey why not give it a bit more compression. Then whilst measuring the deck heights noticed the height difference. But at that stage I thought the block must have been skimmed incorrectly, but it was actually the crank tunnel that was out. Soooo I after loosing interest 3 times on this car in a 6 month period I thought why the hell not start with a completely new block and get it machined by another machine shop. Then I stupidly ( not stupid really) I let my Auto sparky mate look at my car whilest the motor was out and he almost cryed at the mess that was my engine bay. He proceeded to rewire half of the engine bay with Deutch plug as every thing the gas installer touched he had wrecked from twisting and taping and generally not knowing what the hell he was doing. PS the Gas injection setup is currently unplugged so no that isn't what is causing all the issues. I could write a novel on all the bull shit that has happened with this car and what supposed professionals have done to it. And so far from what I can tell everything that either mates or NON professional people have done is still working and not cost me a cent. other than parts of course. MORAL OF THE STORY : Do it your self then you only have your self to blame

Hey Jez, I probably called it by the wrong name but I'll upload my current and the tune prior to adjusting so you compare and see what I'm refering to. New Folder (2).zip

Massive thanks goes to Nathan AkA mr ROOM42. who sent me his maps and talked me through a few area's that were giving me grief. So I have Rescaled my maps in Copilot for a bit more resolution and Nathan's to match. dropped his IGN map and airflow curves in to my computer and BAM runs wickedly better straight off the bat. now I'm confident that I'm not going to kill the motor whilst running it in and can start planning on getting it fine tuned later........ YAY

Cheers for the heads up Nathan, I'll try and pull my finger out and give you a buzz shortly. as my current map is saved onto my thumb drive in the car. but I'm glad its not just me thinking the tune was rooted right from the begining

Hey mate, yeah I have a wide band and an EGT hooked up to it also. But I have just unhooked the EGT as it was occasionly give me odd AFR readings. Well to tell you the trueth I bought all this gear to datalog as I was a little sceptical with how the car was tuned and running. I'm not 100% sure about what I'm doing in some area's hence why I'm going about this in a very cautious way but I still want to know enough that I can diganose problems when they occur in future.