shaund

I had a similar problem with mine r32 GTR that I just imported. Had a fair bit of trouble getting it off. Found that the solution to my problem was a strap type oil filter remover, where the bar is only about 5cm long including the part the strap goes through. It accepts a 1/2" drive, so I used a 1/2" universal joint (bendy adaptor thingy), a couple of extension bars and some one to turn the ratchet while I held the universal joint straight. Came off dead easy. This is after 3 people had a go at removing it by hand. I practically turned blue in the face trying to remove the filter by hand. This method had it off within 10 seconds I'd never go the screwdriver route either! Not like there was a useful ammount of space to throw a screwdriver around in the 32 GTR either Cheers, -Shaun

Sorry to hear about your car... I honestly hope that you have a positive result from your attempts to get things set right! On the point of insurance, I think that 3rd party property insurance should become a compulsory part of owning a vehicle. The number of people that get around with no insurance other than the 3rd party *injury* that their car licence provides really annoys the shit out of me. Its simply a case of being irresponsible. With a credit card, I've insured a car over the phone in 15 minutes, so lack of time is no excuse. A number of my friends have been the victims of others with no 3rd party property insurance, who have been forced to foot the bill for repairs to their own vehicles, simply because they can't afford to be without their car for the period of time that it takes to chase up the person at fault. One of my mates involved in such an accident had his 3-4 month old Lancer written off by some stupid ignorant insurance-less F***er in a BMW who ran a red light. She then had the gall to claim against my friend's insurance for whiplash. Thats the least of her worries, i'm sure. The accident managed to take out My friends car, her car, as well as a traffic light pole. My friend had full cover, it cost him his no-claim bonus (significant), his excess, and alot of inconveniance. He never managed to recover anything out of the other driver, mainly because he couldn't afford (time/money) to drag it through court. Anyone without 3rd party property insurance is asking to have their life screwed up. All it takes is a relatively small mistake on the road to cause an accident resulting in a crash into another car or a building and you could be forced to sell your house, your car, and any other assets to pay for the damage you cause. Don't forget that $10,000-30,000 loan for your own car that you just wrote off in the process! Apart from that, 3rd party insurance is cheap. I'm 22, and my 3rd party insurance renewal on my 94 EF Falcon just arrived in the mail yesterday. $160 for 12 months. Even on a GT-R, if you have a good relationship with your insurance company, I'm sure you'll be able to get 3rd party insurance for less than $500 a year. I've been quoted by Western QBE, $1500/yr for full cover on my r32 GT-R, with a $300 excess. Only reason they insured me is because I've been with them since I had my first car. I'm in Perth, and Garage my GT-R in an 'insurance safe' suburb, so figures may vary state to state and suburb to suburb, but in the end I consider insurance to be a must! I don't mean to rant, offend, or hijack this thread, but I guess if my post urges even one uninsured person it to get the minimal insurance any responsible road user would get, its been worth my time and any offence caused. Cheers! -Shaun </rant>

Hi All, It seems that when the alarm was installed in my skyline, someone managed to break the switch for the pasenger window in the driver side electric window control assembly. I'd love to make them fix it, but I doubt they will after I've now pulled it apart and broken the assembly even further. I'm wondering if anyone has one spare that they can part with? Failing that, anyone know where I can get one from? I'd prefer to buy a part from another skylinesaustralia member rather than a wrecker I'm going to call around to some wreckers tomorrow (hopefully someone will be open) and see what I can find. My car is currently unregistered and needs to be inspected at the pits. One of the requirements is to have a working control for electric windows on the drivers side for the passenger side window. From what I hear, they love to pick the shit out of any skylines that have to go over the pits. I can almost garantee they'll pick on this point. I'm desperate to get this fixed ASAP as its got to go to the panel beaters on tuesday (monday being a public holiday), and then as soon as they are done, I'll be taking it straight to the pits. Or at least thats the plan! I'm in Perth, so if anyone in/around perth can help out, I'd appreciate it! Cheers, -Shaun

Hi Blacky, I've used Jeff Elliott's Auto restoration (white pages search for 'Jeff Elliott' will turn it up) in the past. They have been really really good. Good pricing, and the quality of their work is superb. One of my mates did up an old holden torana. Black and yellow paint job. Looks a million bucks. They also completely seam welded the engine bay. really complete job. I'm about to take my new r32 GTR to them to have some rust repaired and some minor body work fixed. Cheers, -Shaun

I recently did an install in a mates lancer. He had 2 pairs of the yellow cone Pioneer splits. Very nice sounding btw. I was so impressed I'm going to buy two pairs for my skyline once my wallet recovers a bit more. Anyways, back on topic... All we did was screw the tweater housings down to the wooden section of the rear parcel shelf with some self tappers. Bit hard to get started, but works great, and you can swivel them around to fine tune things. The 6" mid-woofers were mounted in the factory positions under the factory grilles. Sure to confuse any would-be thief. As morlock says, be careful that you dont make things too bright in the rear. Your sound staging will sound a bit off. In the end though, tune it up to sound the way you like it. You'll be the one doing the most listening to it Cheers, -Shaun

In removing the body kit on my R32 GTR to facilitate getting at some rusty spots, I had to clean off the double sided mounting tape. It was recommended to me by a friend to use metho. Seems to have done the job. No sign of damage to the paint or clear coat either. I figured it didn't matter so much where I was doing it as it was going to be hidden by the body kit when it goes bck on. I would have thought metho would have damaged the paint. Seems all it did in my case was soften the glue. I still had to use a stiff thumbnail to scrape the glue off. Cheers, -Shaun

My wing on my 32 GTR has water sloshing around inside it also. I've also noticed at the rear eddge of the wing, there is a longish hairline fracture formed. Perhaps capilary action has caused any water dripping down on the surface to be sucked in. I don't think this alone could cause huge ammounts of pressure to build up though. You never know Cheers, -Shaun

Hi all, I've had some good news on my compliance work... one of the doors already has a side intrusion bar. This equates to a saving of aproximately $200. I'm also getting a category 4 alarm system installed by a guy the compliance shop knows/uses that includes a turbo timer that you can disable remotely for $485. Not too bad IMHO. Aparantly it might be ready for collection tomorrow, if not wednesday! I feel the speed giggles coming on already On the rust front, I've spoken with Peter from Jeff Elliott's Auto Restorations here in Perth. I gave him a fairly good description of the rust situation. He seems to think that worst case cenario, it'll be around $750 to fix up the structural rust just at and around the 4 jacking points. Peter said he was going to come over to my house after work one day after I get the skylne back and check it out for me. He seems like a really helpful guy. Didn't expect him to go out of his way like he is! whitesky: I like the look of the larger section of rear wing. I'm thinking it might look a bit cleaner without the addon lip underneath. Additionally, the rear part of the lip seems to have a few distortions along its length. Detracts from its appearance a bit up close. I also noticed a bit of rust forming in a gap between it and the top of the boot lid. Would rather get that fixed while its still hopefully still repairable. This would obviously involve removing the lip. Phatr32: unfortunately the lip (at least as far as I can tell) that everyone is referring to is the addon bit under the original rear wing. SteveL: I've PM'd you about the filters. cheers Once I get the car back, I'll take a pile of photos and put them up on the web for those intrested Cheers! -Shaun

Hi All, Thanks for your info and your warm welcome to the group! I didn't expect such a number of replies so quickly I didn't get a chance to take any photos yet (I will at the first oportunity though!)... I've spent practically the entire weekend getting things sorted out, such as water in the tail lights, fixing a rust spot just behind the tail light with the water, discovering and starting to treat other rusty spots, general cleaning etc. The only other place there was a bit of rust was behind the rear section of the rear most piece of side skirt (sort of in the tyre well). When I get the rust fixed at the jacking points, I'll probably get em to fix that too. Its hidden behind the body kit, so I guess its probably not something that needs doing right away... I've hit it with rust converter and sprayed it with primer. Hopefully that'll keep things good for a while. Dad made up some brackets for the top of the radiator as well today. I suspect my Skyline was missing these brackets after it hit one of the wharfs some where. At $35 a pop from nissan and 2 weeks wait to get em, much faster to just make them. If anyone wants the part numbers for them anyway, give me a yell and I'll dig em out of the paper work. To make things easier on the pannel beaters, I've removed the bodykit. This also allowed me to hit all the rusted areas with rust converter and primer where apropriate. The car looks a bit strange with no body kit, but still amazingly nice In removing the body kit, I also cleaned up all the double sided tape that was used in securing it to the car. Seems that metho does a good job of disolving the glue without harming the paint or clear coat. I was well surprised at this as I'd have thought it'd eat the paint too! I'd never have tried this until a mate said he'd done it before. Tomorrow morning the car is off to the compliance work shop. They say it'll take them a week to get everything done. They have quoted me $1100 for the complete job. After thats done, it'll be to the pannel beater to have the rust fixed, and then registration! Driver: I suspected the same after I got hold of the vehicle. Generally PM are pretty good when it comes to descriptions of vehicles as far as km not being genuine ete. I'd have thought that if the sticker goes on after its done 100,000km, they'd have mentioned it was there. cowie165: Cheers, I love the colour too. It was ether a silver or white for me! The bonnet is the same shade. Perhaps it was just the angle the sun was hitting it at that made it look a bit different in the photo I'll definetly start a WTB thread for the cover. Thanks for the tip. lwells: As soon as I get it back, I'll be sure to take photos of this. Would be intresting to see what the translation of the sticker is. Thanks for the information about the skirts and lip. The lip seems to be made of a softish rubber like compound. The rear of the lip has started to lift (probably a while ago), and it looks like theres a bit of rust formed under it. I'll leave it in place until its registered, and perhaps think about removing it and fixing the rust. I agree, giving it a good hammer before changing oils, filters etc etc is a bad idea. I did give it a bit of a shot on friday arvo though... couldn't resist. I couldn't belive how quick it was. Can't wait to get it on the road and fixed up. I'm looking forward to giving it a good quick run Edit: oops.. Missed a question... Yep, the paint is very slightly crazed. I'm thinking I might sand it back and then paint it up. Assuming the surface is reasonably smooth. I can't recall if it was orange peely in feel or if it was smooth. What does everyone think about the appearance of the spoiler with the nismo lip? I'm undecided as to if I like it with or without better. SteveL: Yes, wear on the drivers seat is only very small though. By comparison with some other similarly low km (80,000ish) it seems to be fairly good. The interior is very tidy otherwise. the carpet seems like its practically new, as does rest of the apolstry. The fabric on the drivers seat is also pilling slightly, but its still very clean. Beer Baron etc: Yep... you all picked it... the last photo on PM's website is from another car. I pointed it out to Geoff. Guess it wasn't worth him fixing it as it had just been sold anyways madbung: Yes, I tend to agree. Everything you say seems very plausible. I hate dishonesty, especially when it comes to mis-representation of something worth so much! siksII: So you think the km's may then be genuine? I'd love a translation of what the sticker actually says. One of my mates says theres also a blue sticker with 100,000km written on it. Perhaps this blue sticker is the one that gets used at the 100,000km service? I discovered late last night that there was no filter in the airbox This prompted me to get one today. Got a generic ryco air filter for $15. I still think I'd like to go for two pod filters though. Anyone know where you can get the adaptors that you bolt onto the AFM's to give you something to clamp the pods to? Perhaps it comes in a kit or something. Also, Is there any real benefit to replacing the rubber hoses from the AFMs to the turbos with solid pipes (and silicone joints etc) as far as power output goes? Its all good in theory, but would changing it make a noticable difference, given that all the car has is a nice 3" (all the way including dump pipe) exhaust? One other intresting thing is my exhaust is very very quiet. A big plus for me, as I'd rather not attract the attention of cops I'm also thinking of getting one of those oil filter relocation kits. I can't get my hand on the oil filter either from above or below (Is there a trick to this?) Anyone know if this is legal to do this mod in WA (I can't think of a reason it wouldn't be, other than cops being pricks), also, where can I get it from? Cheers for all your help, and sorry for going a bit off topic. I guess I'm just just a very enthusiastic new Skyline owner -Shaun

Hi All, I just bought an R32 GTR: http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=3189 I picked it up from the docks in Fremantle(WA) on friday afternoon... After inspecting it and tiding various things up, it seems that the previous owner has used jacks at the wrong points, crushing the rails under the body over, as well as at the jacking points, perhaps not quite seated right. Seems that its pushed some of the metal up, cracked paint etc and now its rusted fairly badly. Seems at the rear of the rails underneath on both sides there is a bit of rust thats just been painted over. Other than that, seems like a really good car.. Runs nice and smooth, wear and tear indicates that the 60,000 kms is genuine. Goes like a shower of shit too Just to confirm, the silver sticker with some Japanese writing on it and (100,000km) printed on it, currently stuck to the top of the airbox, does that mean its done 100,000km, or is it just a reminder to change the timing belt? I've seen some with a blue (or was it green?) sticker with the 100,000km mark on it also, does this signify that its been changed at 100,000km? Also, on the point of the rust, anyone know of a reputable place in Perth to have this fixed at? I'm thinking I might give Jeff Elliot a call.. I've had good results from them in the past. Also, how dificult do you think it'd be to get over the pits after the rust is fixed? Presumably it just needs to be a proper job, ie steel welds etc etc. Also, the plastic ornament that goes in the middle of the rocker cover is missing. Does anyone have one they want to sell, or know where I can get one at a reasonable price? Nissan's price is rediculous ($500ish). I'm taking it to get the compliance work done on Monday. Hopefully will be ready by the following friday to take to some where to get the rust sorted, then a few days later, registration! Sorry about the longish post.. I still can't belive that theres a GTR in my garage and I own it I guess I'm still exited as hell about finally getting my dream car If anyone is intrested, I'm happy to put up some photos after I give her a wash Cheers! -Shaun

I just got my r32 GTR friday arvo from the docks in freo.. I had water in my tail lights on the right side (turns out a bit of rust perhaps where it wasn't painted up right or something, and the sticky black stuff wasn't all the way around).. Gonna put some anti-rust stuff on it tomorrow after a good going over with a wire brush in a drill, and my wing has a bit of water in it too... Thanks for the tips... I'll pull it off and empty the water tomorrow as well. Cheers, -Shaun

You sure all this dealer(?) changed was the belt? Perhaps the tensioner was changed too as a preventative measure by the mechanic? Depending on how good the reporting and level of internal procedure is (as well as how slack sales people can be with info) it is always possable that this could happen and you not be informed the complete story. -Shaun

In my experiance, high beam and low beams are controlled by 2 relays. One for high, One for low. It would be quite simple (if one could locate the two relays) to add in a diode rated for ~1A so that power for the high beam relay will flow to the low beam relay, but not in the reverse direction. Ie, you would put in a diode from the +ve side of the coil on the highbeam relay to the +ve side of the coil on the lowbeam relay, oriented so that it would allow current to flow from the high beam relay to the low beam relay, but (obviously) not the other way around. You may also need to increase the amperage of the fuse for the high beam relay, perhaps anywhere up to double the rating if it has a seperate fuse. Use your best judgement and do some testing. It is possible though (as Igor states) that there are no relays to control the lights and that its all run through the switch in the cabin. I suspect that if this truly is the case, it may be model specific, in which case the information I have provided above may be more useful to people with other cars. Cheers, -Shaun