salad

They dont have to be twin tube to have seperate bump and rebound adjustment, actually, I think most 2-4way adjustable shocks are monotube. Only twin tube 4 way adjustable shocks I know of (havn't looked into it that much) are made by Ohlins, namely the TT40/TT44 (discontinued, and got replaced by pretty much the same thing, but monotube, according to their website) and the TTX40. These aren't your typical twin tube shock thoughs, especially the TTX40. What you have suggested is how most twin tube shocks work (bump valving in the foot-valve and rebound in the piston.)

F*CK YES! Such an awesome track!

SOLD :) Please delete

Work Equip copies gone. I've got an RB25 box now, so RB20 box is just taking up space.

I found that the link pin would only be verticle on the hardest setting. It was damn near impossible to get it onto soft.

Or you could just get the GT3076R from Garrett (same as HKS GT3037). GT3071R (same as HKS GT2835, except only in T2 flange) would be good on the RB25, but would have to do some mods to make it fit the manifold...

Whiteline dont list them, but they do make them. Simon and I got ours through the groupbuy.

Yes, softening the rear bar will have less oversteer. I've found that the settings on the rear bar make quite a bit of difference, more noticable than changes on the front bar too. Which makes sense as the lever arms are longer on the front to rear, but the holes are the same difference apart. So the percentage change in effective lever arm length is bigger on the rear.

Initial post updated

That's what I've done with my relocator/oil filter and it's made for some of the easiest/cleanest oil changes I've ever done! Mine's not mounted in the engine bay either, so very easy to have a tray or something underneath it and oil doesn't get on anything else

I've managed to get mine pretty neutral with 7/5 spring rates and front on hard and rear on soft, still a bit taily sometimes, but I put that down to lack of rear camber (was only 1deg).

Cost difference and adjustability means Whiteline is a smart option. I think that 30mm rear bar would be hollow, but if it isn't that's FAR too big on the rear. For drift I guess you do want it a bit oversteery, but you dont want it rediculously oversteery, you still want a lot of rear grip for speed.

This is how my GTR bar fits on my GTS-t with stock guards Obviously not a perfect fit, but good enough for me. Notice how it bows up near the outside of the headlights, and then drops down a little near the inside of the headlights. I have a GTR reo too The copy GTR bars do fit well (most of them) but the problem is, they have the stock sized cooler/radiator "mouth". The GTR one is much bigger.

Dont worry, I hate salad too, dunno why I use it for everything on the internet... Link fixed. Shouldn't have to subscribe, should just open up a word file.

Newly added links, put all links into first post to make things a bit easier http://g-speed.com/pbh/dampers.html http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html http://www.racing-car-technology.com.au/St...20Ackerman4.doc

^^^Motor, not car...

Yep, the semis have been sold to Zennon. Post updated

Nah, wasn't me My car's sittin out the front of my house with no motor

BUMP!

I use the Blitz DSBC Spec R (older model too) and can only say that it does exactly what I want it to. Ramp boost up as fast as possible and hold it without spiking.

A pillowball camber top is a type of upper mount. The upper mount or strut top is the flat round bit of metal on top with studs in it to bolt it to the strut tower. Pillowball camber tops use a spherical bearing instead of the stock bush to allow movement and it also adjust camber on MacPherson strut cars like an S14. For a street car, they're not really needed as the only advantage is having the camber adjustment, but you dont really need the large range that they give, you can just get camber pins which will give you enough adjustment on the street and are much cheaper. Pillowballs or spherical bearings are also known for their harsh ride with lots of NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness). It's also quite common for them to wear quite quickly.

I did the same thing when I got those arms, the problem with mine was, as they're staggered arms, I put them in the wrong way and it gave heaps of castor and bugger all camber. When I had the arms maxed out (short as possible), the wheel aligning machine read about 16deg castor and about 1.5deg camber, so really sacrificed static camber. I'm fairly sure that GTR and GTS-t arms are the same though, maybe one's a bit shorter than the other from stock, but I'm fairly sure the offset of the arms is the same for both. My adjustable GTR arms seemed to be pretty damn similar to my stock GTS-t ones anyway.

Yes

Their suggested wheel alignments are usually for improved tyre wear. SK's settings aim for a bit more handling.

That's farkin gay! Honestly... Having a car stolen from out the front of your own house is rediculous, wasn't even at night really...