salad

For the front, you need either some form of adjustable upper arm. This can be done with a whole adjustable arm, or adjustable upper arm bushes (completely different to subframe bushes). You could get them or adjustable lower control arms, but these are damn expensive. I havn't seen any company do adjustable lower control arm bushes, either, so you'd have to go a complete adjustable arm, like Ikeya Formula. On the rear, you need adjustment in the upper control arm, again, either complete arms or adjustable bushes. And once again, you can do adjustable lower control arms, but they're damn pricey... again... Traction rods are a good idea if you have upper arm adjustment too as you dont screw the geometry up lots and get heaps of bumpsteer. Tension rods only do castor and castor is only on the front, so no, you dont need them for the rear. Is your car a HICAS model car? If it is, then you dont need toe arms as you already have tie rods, which have a huge range of adjustment, unlike the standard cam adjustment that the non-HICAS models have. Front always have tie rods so you dont have to worry about aftermarket adjustment there.

GTR rims sold. Semis now up for grabs.

Hi, I've got these coilovers in my car too. I think your best bet is to scour the for sale section and find a complete set of stock strut for sale (GTR or GTS-t, I think R33 ones fit too, but dont hold me to that). They usually go for around $200 and then you get some spare shocks to keep for shits and giggles. If not, for the front you need 56115, 56119 and 56119+A. On the rear you need 55322, 56217 and 56218 (or 55248N, I cant remember exactly what the parts look like, fairly sure on the first one though.) The shocks should come with nuts, and you should be able to get washers from anywhere.

Try this Front: Camber: -2deg Castor: 8deg Toe: 2mm out total If you do a fair bit of street driving, go with less toe out as it will kill the inside of your tyres, something like 1mm or even 0 toe. Rear: Camber: -0.5deg Toe: 2mm in total

+40 rim with a 20mm spacer = effective offset of +20 +34 rim with a 5mm spacer = effective offset of +29 So the +34mm rim combination has 18mm less track than the +40mm rim combo. Offsets and rim size can be used to determine clearance to the strut and guard, but they can not be used to determine clearance to the caliper, spoke design comes into it for this. The only real way to find out for sure is to bolt it onto the car and see if it clears the caliper. Also a 5mm slip on spacer is much more likely to throw out the balance than a 20mm bolt on or a 20mm hub centric slip on (like H&R)

Sorry, I meant what size swaybars, what spring rates, what tyres used (R-comp or road tyres) and application (circuit, road, drift, etc).

For skylines, 24mm front and 22mm rear seem to work best with normalish spring rates for street use.. Swaybars work well because they simply have the least downsides for controlling roll compared to the other methods like springs (lose compliance) and low speed bump (lose midcorner grip).

Shut up you, I'm world's cheapest guy. You are too, so get out of it!

Ooooh, Top Secret coilovers, they'd be nice, Sweedish Ohlins goodness How pricey was the conversion?

A wheel alignment (especially camber) will depend on the amount of antiroll (low speed bump, swaybars, spring rates and roll couple), tyres being run etc. It's hard to suggest an alignment without knowing the full details of the setup.

I get this occasionally too

Dont paint the centres of VS-KFs black... That would be gay. You could make those rims fit, rear would fit with a bit of a flare and run a bit of camber, fronts should be ok with a bit of camber. Around 2deg all round should see them fitting with mild flaring. I'm assuming you're not the kind of guy into track work and handling, so running that sort of setup shouldn't bother you

Just found out that ECU that came with the engine package was actually an R33 RB25DET ECU (manual) and not the R32 RB25DE ECU that I originally thought, so no longer an an R32 ECU available, but do have an R33 ECU available

Clutch sold

Should be a welcome change from the tired blow-by ridden RB20

I think the whole "speed" thing is you're racing against the clock, with practice days, drifting etc, you're not. Motorkhanas you are, but it's low speed. But yeah, track day is just go out and have fun, go as fast or as slow as you want. New engine's coming together slowly, but making sure it's done right so I dont have to do this again for a long time Will just have to save up for a decent turbo after that, gonna be running an R33 S2 with VG30 rear housing (pretty much R34 turbo) for the mean time.

Regularity is a L2S event, like hill climbs and super sprints. L2NS limits you to pretty much practice days, drifting and motorkhanas...

MADGT4: PM sent Kane_R32: Would much rather sell together as there is so much less stuffing around. If you can organize other buyers for the other pair, then go for it Ash: My RB30DET came with the whole plenum too, so I can sell my RB20 one if need be. Guesty: Antyres are just cheap road tyres DJrift: As above much rather sell as a set.

Yeah, SCCSA is $35/year if you're an affiliate member which you can only be if you're under 28 (I think it was 28 anyway...)

Clutch drives like a stock clutch really. I bought it exactly 2 years ago, and have done 28,000kms on it. Both street and track driving with ~170rwkw or so.

Pictures of semis up and other stuff

Fairly sure they have 98 and 100octane, but it's not cheap. I'd definitely go the route of bringing jerry cans

Oi! Shut up, those bearings are mint. I think the thing that needs to be sorted out for the new engine is oil pump... As long as that's fine, then she'll be sweet.

Might be a while till this one's running (~1 month I guess?) cos yeah, Simon's slack and I dont wanna rush this one. Last time I rushed a bargain, it blew up in my face... The car's not gonna be stupidly powerful for a while, maybe just 220rwkw with an R33 turbo and VG30 rear housing (basically R34 turbo). That'll do me for a while till I have the funds to get the GT3076R, just means I'll have full boost at around 1500rpm Just have to make sure it doesn't choke up too early, which I still think it will, even with the VG30 rear housing Only doing this because it was cheaper (about half the price) than buying an RB25 Found an RB25 gearbox too, so just need to get a little bit more money together and that should be all good too Well that's a lie, I cant hang my hat on my driving, so I'll have to hang it on my car Always gotta be one better Hayden could definitely be happier, I'll tell you that much