salad

Lookin good man Damn you guys and your 25s! PS: Buy a set of my rims... http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=247559

^^^Compared to what?

Even the Buddy Club dampers can be had for just over $1600 and they seem to work quite well. I've got a couple of dyno sheets for these if anyone's interested. The certainly dont look crap anyway.

100% agreed. These things are basically bottom of the barrel type things, do you really want that for such an important part of the car? And especially when good dampers for not much more.

Yeah, the point of this thread wasn't to say dont go to him full stop, but do a bit more research before hand as before this, I had only ever heard good things about him. After it happened, I found out about a few more people that weren't too happy with his work

Yeah, the Penrite is mineral based, but I havn't had any problems so I'll happily recommend it to people. Simon got me onto it and he's been using it for years now.

Hi guys, the purpose of this thread is not to tell people to never go there again, just put a bit more research in before taking an expensive part to him... I recently bought a GCG highflow that was in need of the rear seal being done. I took the turbo there and dropped it off with his lackies (he wasn't there) and then asked them to give me a ring with the price before they did it. The next morning I got a call saying it was done and I owed $400. I wasn't too fussed about this because I wanted it done in a hurry, but the phone call with the price would've been nice. He also said it had another 2-3years life left in it which made me feel a bit better about it. Anyway, then I put the turbo on and get it dyno tuned, then took it to Mallala and it seized after 4laps. On the dyno it was clearly blowing lots of smoke and on the drive to Mallala, my mates told me it was blowing lots of smoke. I didn't think much of it because I thought it was my engine and I know my engine's not healthy. Also when the turbo came off, there was a HUGE amount of blowby, so much so that it filled my boost controller solenoid, all piping and there was a puddle in the compressor housing... I took it back to him, he pulled it apart and said it was oil starvation, then did an oil flow test on my car and it was only getting 0.9L/min and they apparently should be getting 1.5L/min. So while there, we modified the banjo bolts (drilled out the restrictors) to flow 1.5L/min. I thought this was a bit odd as the turbo is supposed to be used with standard lines, and hence restrictors in place, so I rang up GCG and asked how much oil the highflows are supposed to get, and what did they say? 0.9L/min! So now my car's feeding far too much oil to the turbo (in the range for bush bearing turbos) and is puffing smoke. So I need to find a couple of standard banjos to return it to normal. I think it's also worth noting that before this incident, I had done about 2 years worth of track driving with the stock RB25 turbo and stock lines with NO oil related turbo problems. Anyway, all I can say is dont believe all the hype about Bill (like I did). I also went to MTQ later about it and they were VERY helpful, no money paid, gave me some advice, got a technical guy to look at the turbo and gave me a quick quote on a rebuild, unlike Bill who just wanted to sell me a brand new turbo...

Probably be as useful as me just propping the boot lid up My GTR wing fits on the car perfectly? Couple of the holes even lined up properly, but the other 2 were slightly off... Doesn't hang over the edges anyway No one's taking the blame about turbo, so yeah, bugger all I can do Right now I'm running 3deg front and 1deg rear. I was running 1.5deg rear and found this wasn't enough either, so I adjusted my bushes to make the arm shorter (more camber), but somehow, it went the other way!? I'm sick of adjusting the bushes anyway, so I'm just going to get adjustable upper arms Me and Hayden could be side by side Spose I could throw on the Celsior rims, take out the springs and just have it sitting on the bumpstops...

Yeah, I've noticed my idle is pretty average with 0.8mm, but no misfires at all high in the revs, so that's good enough for me. Dont have to mess with the plugs, buy em and whack em straight in.

Well nothing is happening with the turbo and I'm out $800 because of it. Borrowing a mate's RB25 turbo now so it's back to its old self Took it out to Mallala for some circuit on Saturday and took 1.6s out of my last lap time. Got a 1:24.1, oh so close to my goal of getting into the 1:23s. I probably could've done it on the day with a bit more driving as there was still half the day to go, but I was almost out of brakes and fuel, so called it a day. Couple more issues I have to address with the setup too, bit more rear camber and probably a bit less front camber with these tyres (old hard semis that dont grip too much anymore). And it's very nervous at high speed (~180km/hr) so I've picked up a GTR wing and it's on there now. I'll head back out to a grip day soon and see how it goes. Hopefully this settles it a bit at high speed. Actually, I'll probably just give it a go at G1, the semis dont grip much more than street tyres, they just dont go greasy Gotta address brakes before I get back out there again though, keep killing em... Spose now with a wing, I should also enter Autosalon

fag.... 30rwkw more (with the bigger MUCH stronger box) and full boost 500rpm earlier...:(

Ric, I use Penrite Limslip 85W-140 in mine and I've had no problems over the past 6+months. Very quite, and works well. $25 for 2.5L bottle too, cheap as shit

Yeah, Turbo Tune's dyno is only a few months old now. Comparable to Graham West's dyno now

Went in the car today, definitely not slow... Gotta love full boost by 2500rpm too...

Here's channel 7's coverage of the 91 and 92 Bathurst races, 2hrs each http://www.crystalnode.net/bathurstvideos/

I'll be out there driving. Back to the old turbo since my troubles with my highflow so I'll see if I can crack 100km/hr on the front straight

I think there's a bit of your gasket missing... Was $38 RRP or trade?

Wouldn't be surprised at all if the GTR front bar was the same size, it's effectively about twice as stiff on the GTR as it bolts to the upright instead of halfway along the LCA like on the ceffy. On the rear the GTR bar (25mm hollow) is about twice the stiffness of the stock ceffy bar (16mm solid).

Yeah, Nissan aswell, from memory, that gasket's a bit cheaper too

There is some fluid weeping out the back of the master in the cabin, but the fluid level doesnt drop much, then again it doesnt get driven much. Bleed has been done so many times a bottle has gone through it.. fairly sure there's no air in the lines.

Got a bit of a strange clutch related problem and I was wondering if anyone could help me with it. Lately I've noticed that my clutch has started engaging a lot higher then normal.. and that it has been slipping in gear, I thought it might be the clutch itself but I checked over everything else just to make sure. Anyway did a bleed of the system and I noticed that as soon as I cracked the bleed nipple on the slave that the pressure in the system bled out and the clutch fork went back into its normal position. So whats happening is with the pedal up, the hydraulic system is retaining pressure some how, this is only a new problem as nothing else like pedal adjustment has been touched. I've tried doing a full bleed and it usually works fine for a while, until about 45 mins of driving and it goes shit again... Can anyone shed some light as to what the problem might be?

Nissan for about $25 at trade price.

Use BCPR6ES. They're coppers and ~$4 as sinista has said. They're pre-gapped to 0.8mm and this works well. Just change the plugs every second service and you'll be fine

Running crusty old Yokohama A048Rs, they've gone rock hard and the rears have started to go a little blue, grip a little bit better than a street tyre, but they dont go greasy after a few hard laps like a street tyre would, in fact the tyres stay pretty constant over the 15min session. Would love to put the highflow back on, but there is no part of it that is salvagable except the housings, and Bill has said it's not his fault. Not much I can do about it, so I'm out $600 for the turbo and $200 for the tune I dont need now . And now I've got GTR injectors in there that I dont need... Tune and injectors will be handy later though, so yeah. We'll see anyway Ideally, I wanna be out there with brand new RE55Ss, GOOD pads + slotted rotors and 220rwkw, should be a good time with all that