salad

Check your tyre pressures, check the alignment and how low is it? Sounds like a bit of bump steer to me.

I'd love to do that so much, but the R32 RB25DEs aren't too common, but am keeping an eye out. If I had an RB25DE head though, I'd be VERY tempted to just grab a stock RB30E bottom end and slap it together. There's a few people on here getting big power out of stock bottom ends so would be alright if one popped up I think I would miss revving past 7000rpm though...

Oh my mistake, misread a few times and thought you said you could hear it spool and that it still boosted a little somehow? Still, sounds a little odd that it would make it run like crap, unless R33s are different, mine still runs perfectly normally, it just chokes up at around 4000rpm, which yours shouldn't do as there would be nothing in the exhaust. If you did lose the rear wheel, it will be stuck in the cat, so rip the dump off first and see if there's a wheel/bits of wheel in there.

Well my turbo shit it over the weekend, but it didn't shoot the wheel off, it completely seized. My car still runs perfectly, it is just very gutless. If your turbo was missing the rear wheel, it would still run nicely, should be better than mine too as it doesn't have a wheel in the exhaust that isn't moving. Either way, think about it, if there is no rear wheel, what is left to drive the compressor? If you can hear it spool, or you get any positive boost at all, your rear wheel is still there.

Doesn't really sound like blown turbo, if you did blow it, it should just drive fine, but have no boost. If the rear wheel was gone, you would not hear the turbo doing anything, because it wouldn't be doing anything. Check AFM plug, close check over cooler hoses etc.

I would love to, but really cant afford around $4000 to do the whole conversion Just gonna freshen up the 20 a little bit later down the track. Got onto Bill about the turbo, going to go see him next week (too busy with uni exams this week) and he'll sort it out for me He said it seemed very strange to him and didn't sound like an oil starvation problem. Now a whole week withouth my car! It's times like these I wish it was a track car and not a daily

Turbo is dead, completely seized. Will have to talk to Bill at ATS tomorrow as he had it apart 10 days ago. Only lasted 4 laps Motor is on its way out too, blowing a bit of smoke and what not. The one thing that I expected to go didn't seem to have any issues (clutch), but then again, I only got a couple of laps, and my rear tyres had no grip, so not heaps of stress on the clutch. F*ck cars!

This is the guide I wrote which uses Sydneykid's method. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=185697 I will edit it in the next couple of days when I have some time as I've got some better pictures to throw up and put it all in order.

If done properly (looping lines properly and not just blocking them off), steering feel doesn't change. Once locked the car is more predictable on the limit, whether it be understeer or oversteer sort of depends on the situation, the system just reacts too slow and more than likely will do the wrong thing at the wrong time.

Nah, will just have to baby the clutch I can do that, only really stab at it to start a slide, shouldn't need to clutch it mid corner anymore.

Only did it to save the rear wheel Will only be turning it up from here on in

Threw GTR injectors and RB25 GCG highflow on over the last couple of days. Got it tuned again and pulled 220rwkw on 1.4 bar with really good response for an RB20. 1.4 bar comes at 3600rpm Start making more power than the stock RB25 turbo at just before that too. Will chuck up a dyno sheet soon. Should make the drift practice tomorrow more interesting with another 50rwkw (I used to turn boost down on the track) Dunno how the 2 year old organic clutch will do though

I've been using an Extreme heavy duty organic in my R32 for 2 years now. Started off pretty standard, but now I'm running 180rwkw and it's been holding up fine (been running this sort of power for over a year). But yeah, clutch is coming to the end of it's life now, I would definitely be looking at a button or at least the cushioned button. They're so much nicer to drive than a normal button. Wait, just noticed Sports organic is different to Heavy Duty organic. But apparently good for up to 240rwkw, so I'd say it would be fine in your car

Sydneykid can get Eibach coils for about $260/pair through the groupbuy, so unless you can get the Swifts cheaper, I'd be getting Eibachs.

Thinking about it a little, I dont think it would raise the car up anymore, but more lower the subframe more, so as far as suspension geometries are concerned, the car is lower, but without the roll centre dropping more. Reasoning for me is height is controlled by the spring, this is attached to the chassis and the outer of the LCA (effectively), so this determines the height, by adding pineapples, you're effectively spacing the subframe down further. Just my thoughts while my mind is a jumble of other thoughts for exams...

Yeah, I was gonna say something about that Cheers for the pics though, should make the guide a bit easier to follow, my photos are shockin. I'll put all the photos back in order too...

Much better photos than mine. Do you mind if I stick em in my guide?

Hi guys, I've got an R33 S2 turbo for sale, in excellent condition. Made 186rwkw on 14psi on an RB20 with full boost at 3000rpm in 4th. Turbo is coming off as I just got a GCG highflow for my car and need to get rid of the turbo to get some injectors. Turbo blows no smoke, no funny noises etc and will be coming off the car in the next few days (just gotta get a couple of exams out the way first). I'm after $350 ono for it. PM me or call/sms me on 0422 255 843 Cheers Showza

Yeah, I drove past this last night too, cops/ambos and firies everywhere, big area all blocked off. Certainly didn't look the best...

How low is the car? Centre of wheel to guard? If it is around 340mm, you can correct the camber using the Whiteline adjustable bushes ($135RRP) as they offer +/-0.75deg adjustment. If the car is lower than this, you can either get 2 camber kits (bushes for both inner and outer joints of the arms) or you can buy the Whiteline adjustable upper arms ($300RRP from Autobarn) which offer a lot more adjustment. If you just want the bushes, have a look in the groupbuy section, "Sydneykid" is running groupbuys for Whiteline/Bilstein/Eibach/Noltec stuff.

Few more crashes and it'll be like mine Might be a 25 in there one day, but not looking too likely at the moment, no money... Will just keep revving the crap out of the RB20 till it shits it

The other reason for rubbing is that going to a 10mm wider tyre has increased the rolling diameter. With the heights of 355/345, front will have ~35mm gap from guard to tyre and rear will have ~25mm gap from guard to tyre. I can highly recommend the Bilstein shocks in the groupbuy, have been worth every cent. Just pull the splash guards out, extra castor helps improve steering response and hence turn in is better, so I wouldn't be reducing it.

The Nismo R-tuned are Ohlins I'm fairly sure. 4way adjustable. If I'm not mistaken BeerBaron has them. I would also assume they are the Japanese made Ohlins?

Maybe, I dont really think it's too likely though, he got airborne a fair way before the barier. Would've been horrible if he did clear the barier though... But you can see the rear's aero effects after he hits the service road or what ever it was the car pops up, but then a moment later, the rear is slammed back into the ground while the front stays up. Not really relevent but I thought it was interesting at how well the rear wing worked.

Ummm... Bump...