salad

Helpers are usually only used on the rear as the front doesn't really have problems of the springs not being captive at full droop. Edit: If you were referring to them only being on the back and not the front...

It's not hard, but I'd say cutting one wire is easier than taking the dash out, and yes, I've done both. It's not really a necessity, it's just nice to have it there in case something goes wrong, you can notice it earlier I guess. As for cutting the wrong wire, I wouldn't stress too much, just check them all by connecting them seperately until you find the one that lights up the dash light. Then cut that wire, and plug the plugs back in. Pretty simple, it took me 5mins to find the wire to cut on my R32. If they're like R32 at all, it'll be the green with white trace line wire on the smaller of the two plugs. Dont just cut that wire without checking though, chances are, R32 is different to R33.

Jeez, I thought mine were bad 51jay... More warped but definitely no pistons welded to it!

Yeah, cutting the wire is the best option as your warning light still comes on when your power steering fluid is low. Just unplug the computer and then with the car on, go through all the wires connecting them with another piece of wire and see which one turns the light on. Then cut that wire, plug it all back in and drive

Yeah, that'd be nice if you did that, instead of spending all your time building your car

The helper springs cant do anything for softening a ride, they bind (crush and become solid) with the weight of the car on them so the spring rate is only given by the main spring. They are only there to keep the main spring trapped at full droop. The Tein HAs and HRs are pretty old now aren't they? I'd be wary of buying 2nd hand ones. Either way, I would just get the Whiteline/Bilstein groupbuy, for the amount of handling AND comfort you get, it's pretty hard to beat.

Scandew: Get a tape measure out and measure the ID. If you cant get in there to do that, measure the OD and then subtract the wire diametre twice. Find the wire diameter by sliding open ended spanners over the top till you find the right one. Does look like it'd be something around 60-65mm ID though as that's the norm for rectangular coils. R DITRY 3: I've seen SK say a few times that they are cold wound. I know just going by what people say on the internet isn't the smartest thing, but I think SK has a fair idea about all the Whiteline stuff.

In any motorsport your aim is to maximise grip... So what's wrong with trying to get more grip? Comfort? I dont think so with your 14/12 kg/mm springs

If I remember correctly, Gary (SK) said the front Whiteline spring is 165lb/in (2.92kg/mm) and the King spring is ~175lb/in (3.1kg/mm). Dont know about rears though. I'd say the Whiteline one is the better spring though as it's cold wound compared to the hot wound King Spring.

Best post of the thread!

If by 255mm rim you mean there there is a 255 tyre on there now and it sits flush, then 235 will fit on there pretty easily (assuming 17s or 18s, the larger sizes might start struggling a little with the smaller sidewalls) As for brands, look here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=72923

If they're only small adjustments, it wont make a difference which one you choose. But dont think that increasing the preload will increase your spring rate, this is completely untrue and cant be done. Unless you start adding so much that the spring is still preloaded when the weight of the car is on it.

Definitely, the car will be far too oversteery with the stock front bar and you wont have the grip that you need to go fast enough.

Steering rack bush is a pretty universal thing I'm pretty sure. Rack boots, I just used universal boots from Repco, $15ea or something. If you havn't already done it, do castor rod bushes, I cant imagine they'd be too pretty anymore.

What are you comparing them to?

Sorry, my mistake, I made a couple of assumptions there, just thinking we were comparing brands. Checking the diameter is a must when buying swaybars, I dont think there are any Australian companies that make hollow swaybars though, so that makes things a bit easier. Arm lengths dont have to be worried about too much as they have to be kept pretty constant to fit the car.

I'm gonna go with blind joke. Doesn't help that the site now reduces the size of all the pics now though. http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...ine_Package.jpg They're called stabilizer bars in the price list. Swaybars = stabilizer bars = anti-roll bars. Siddr20: I doubt there would be a difference between swaybar brands. But ring up the two companies and ask them where they get their spring steal from. If they get em from the same place, they're gonna be pretty damn similar.

You need all S13 bushes in the front end. R32 castor rod bushes are the same though, and fairly confident that LCA bushes are also the same. Swaybar D-bracket bushes should be different (different sized bars) but link pin bushes should be the same. But as stated, you will not need R32 upper control arm bushes, simply because you dont have any. Cant think of any other bushes right now... Which bushes are you thinking of?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 Stiffer front swaybar without an upgraded rear swaybar will work miserably for drift, definitely get the rear one first. You'd be much better off getting both at once though. And having them adjustable is quite helpful.

With those cambers, front will sit in a bit (10-15mm) from the outer edge of the guard but rear should sit pretty much even with the guard.

RE050A is an asymmetric tyre and has an inside and outside marked, can only be fitted on the rim one way. RE050 is a symmetric directional tyre and can be fitted on the rim either way but should only roll one way. FAT34, I've noticed that Falken tyres seem to be a bit skinnier than the norm, ages ago I had 235/40 and 265/35 on 18x8 and 18x9 and they were both a bit stretched. This was in the ZE-512 pattern though, keen to try the FK-452s soon.

I use the Blitz DSBC spec-R. Cost me $300 second hand, controls boost very well.

Having your engine running when you get a wheel alignment will make NO difference. Do you guys have caster adjustment on your cars? The car will pull to the side with less caster, if they are even, it will pull towards the camber of the road. Uneven cambers have a similar effect. And how trust worthy are the places doing your wheel alignments? Chances are, your run of the mill tyre shop will have no idea what they're doing. Post up wheel alignment specs so we can see what's going on.

If you are refering to the Gibson GTR, they replaced the whole rack with a lockbar. I dont think there are any race cars that retain HICAS unless they have to.

^^^ at being able to see ceramic bearings