salad

Check that your tyre pressures are even too. Do you have caster adjustment? If you dont the wheel alignment wouldn't have done too much to help the pulling. But yeah, the car will always pull towards the camber of the road. Post up your wheel alignment specs if you can.

Price drop to $16,000 Any offer considered!

The reason it is removed is because it is unpredictable, the sensors, actuators and controller are just too slow. It will start doing things at the wrong time etc. Also, same with all auto control systems it assumes that there is nothing else trying to control the system, but the driver will be trying to compensate all the time (naturally) so it will be correcting for your correction of it's correction etc etc. For driving on the limit, it just a much better idea to lock it as it's much more predictable.

Take the tie rods out. There should be a square clip sort of thing to lock the tie rods in place, break/cut this as you shouldn't put it back on with the spacers. Once the tie rods are out, slip the spacer over the thead, put some loctite over the remaining thread and then put the tie rods back in. Make sure you do them up real tight too. After that adjust your tie rods 6mm to compensate for the huge amount of toe in you've just added. Crack the nut, move it back 6mm and then keep turning the tie rod till the tie rod end meets the nut, then lock the nut again. This is just so your alignment isn't too bad when you go get a proper wheel alignment as you will need one after.

Arms still have full adjustment, just a little bit of play in one of the arms. These are currently sold pending payment

The whole problem is the shocks cant produce the damping forces needed to control the spring. Your only options are to go back to stock springs or get new shocks that are designed to cope with the higher spring rate.

Items: R32 Front adjustable upper (camber) arms Extra Info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3125691 Contact Details: PM or 0422 255 843 Price and price conditions: $200ono

BUMP! Must go!

BUMP! Must go!

Hi I'm selling my front R32 adjustable upper control arms. These were bought from Japan brand new for around $500 and have HUGE scope for adjustment. At a ride height of 350mm, these maxed out at around -5deg camber and you can go all the way back to positive cambers if you want! Now, I'm selling them because they're not in the best condition and I'm pretty picky with my suspension. On the left arm, one side's locking mechanism has crapped it. The arm will not move though as the other side will keep it locked in place. I have used them at a fair few track days in this condition (on semis too) so I am confident in their strength. I'm not quite sure how it broke, I havn't hit anything in my car. So I guess it's just one of those things. This is the style of arm I'm after $200 for these arms and willing to post anywhere in Aus. Post, PM or call/sms 0422 255 843 Cheers

^^^ If you're gonna spend that sort of money, you may aswell get the adjustable ones from Japan, I got mine second hand for $300AUD delivered friend got the brand new ones for $450 delivered at the same time. Huge scope for adjustment, maxed out at something like 5deg camber at 350mm ride height and can get it back to 1deg easily, havn't tried to see what the minimum is though.

Yeah, I saw someone (you???) post that article in another thread, thought it was great, was going to add it in here, but forgot all about it. Keep 'em coming fellas, it's looking a little better now

Nah, you wont roll on that ripple strip, I've slammed that so many times it's not funny, you just get a bit of air If you're heading towards the ripple strip though, just grab the handbrake and you'll be right Have a look for some vids on youtube and see where all the good guys are entering, and then go a bit later than them, that's what I did. Or follow me at the next prac, I'm still not doing huge ones.

^^^They're cheap copies though. Every copy I've seen so far has been crap. There is an R32 GTR bar with N1 slots for sale in SA for $200 at the moment on ns.com. You can just get an ordinary GTR bar and buy the N1 slots from Nissan. The part number is 62256 06U00

Brenton: I just plain dont like you... You were doin pretty good for first time out, need to go faster! The faster you go, the easier it is to keep out. Do eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!

Oi Ric, you were doin sick out there, definitely one of the standouts. You have to start your scando earlier though, you're not scrubbing off enough speed by the time you're getting to turn 1. Tandems at the next prac!

You need to buy the rear Whiteline link pins. When you buy the bar from them it comes with it. The bars may look to be the same OD now, but if the stock swaybar is that thick, it is hollow. There is quite a bit of difference going to a solid bar of the same OD. eg. A 25mm OD R32 GTR swaybar offers around about the same torsional stiffness as a solid 19mm swaybar.

C'marn! REALLY need money, just destroyed my brake pads/rotors at a track day so need to buy some decent ones.

SOLD

Finally got out to Mallala for a practice day Should be a fair bit more time left in it, having huge problems with brakes and was first time out there so I cant drive... Will head back out there soon with some decent pads. SAU Nickname: Salad Car Make and Model: R32 Circuit Name: Mallala Lap time: 1:25.xx Modifications Engine: RB20DET Power: 180rwkw Suspension: Bilstein coilovers, Whiteline swaybars, front adj upper arms, Tein castor rods, Whiteline rear camber bushes, solid cradle bushes, HICAS lockbar, front strut brace, Kaaz 1.5way Tyres: Second hand 225/50R16 A048Rs Brakes: stock, Bendix heavy duty pads (absolute crap, down to metal in ~25laps) Body weight: No backseats or boot trim/spare By the way Troy, if you wanted a circuit map for the first page, the url is http://www.mallala.com/Circuit_Map.jpg

I did say 'simplistically'. As for how the cars get their power down, I thought we were comparing GTS-t with GTS25-t? Both RWD without traction control/launch control. Both have VERY similar rear suspension (geometry, spring rates etc). We were comparing stock for stock, but I doubt anyone has stock tyres anymore, so we'll just assume same tyres for both, both have same sized rims so that shouldn't be a problem. Both have R200 VLSDs, so they'd both get the power down the same way there. Both have very similar gearbox ratios too. The difference is the R32 has a ~5% shorter diff ratio (4.363 vs 4.083 from memory) which would increase acceleration compared to the R33. But R33 has more torque at the engine to start with, so it's negated, leaving the R33 faster. I realise you can't use power to weight all the time, but these 2 cars are VERY similar, so in this case, you can and it does work. The R33 IS faster in a straight line.

http://www.mallala.com/practicedays.htm If you still have more questions, ring them.

Just found a photo of the car when it was still in Japan before I bought it! It's come a fair way...

http://www.myspace.com/whatsashowza

Another good idea, but lacks the driver training which from what I've heard is great. I would be keen for driver training, depending on when it is. Hopefully it's not too close to other events. But I'm just keen for more track time, so I'd go in for hiring the track for the day too Oh, and very late notice, but if anyone is keen for just normal Mallala grip practice, I'm going out this Saturday with a couple of mates. Gates open at 8:30, close at 4:30. Get divided into groups in the morning and then run for 20-30min sessions. It's open practice for cars and carts.