salad

That is the person/sponsor that I was talking about. He is refering to preload. The amount of travel the spring has is pretty irrelevent to spring seat location as the bumpstops will stop travel before coil bind becomes an issue, unless the coilover is really crappily designed (spring and spring seat height).

Yes, bound (more commonly known as bump) is the compression stroke of damping. I think there has been confusion caused by some people (sponsors) selling coilovers that dont know what bound is... $600 for those Bilsteins is a bargain, I paid $2200 for similar stuff through the group buy. Who ever buys them will not regret it...

The R32 has better handling from very similar suspension geometry but less weight. The R33s suspension was revised to spread the load on the upper control arm over a larger area resulting in the bushes lasting longer. R33 has superior engine though. Which is faster is another matter, are you talking lap times, straight line or something else? Lap times are hard to say as there are a lot of variables. But straight line, simplistically R33 is ~5-6% heavier but has ~16% more power, so R33 is faster.

18kg/mm springs all round!?

Yeah, I figured that bit out later... Fitting tyres sucks!

Looks good man Good luck on Sunday, you'll have a ball

How low is the car? The stock cam adjustment doesn't have a very big range just like the stock camber adjustment so it's hard to get the alignment right when lowered. If this is the case, you will have to buy adjustable toe arms.

Bump!!!

BUMP!!!

I was saying he needs to get a camber kit as there is not enough adjustment to bring it back to normal numbers. There is plenty of toe adjustment front and rear (if it's a HICAS model)

You will need a wheel alignment. You will also need a rear camber kit to try and get rid of some of the excess negative camber you will have gained on the rear.

Have a look through here, just ask if you're still a bit confused http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/locking...13-t185697.html It's all well and good to remove the rear powersteering pump rotor, but if you keep it on, it does make plumbing in a p/s cooler a bit easier. And keeps the functionality of the stock cooler

MORE POWER!? Where's my power damn it!? Cant keep up with you on the straights as it is

Post up a wheel alignment report

Yes, nothing wrong with that, will work. Bar will just look like it does on my car (not perfect fit). There was a gap on my drivers side between the guard and the top of the bar, about 20mm. Fixed it by using a bolt with some big washers instead of cable ties. Has pulled the whole bar up nicely so no unsightly gaps there Everywhere else is just held on by cable ties... Bit lazy, haha

Need a lot more info. Where are you gettin understeer? Entry, mid corner or exit? What is your current set up? What spring rates, swaybars, wheel alignment?

Grab the wheel and shake/twist it with the steering lock on to test for play. If there is some play, you should be able to see everything move, but the tie rod not move.

The reo is the reinforcement bar behind the front bar. What gaps are you talking about? There aren't really any on there now that strike me as obvious. Bonnet and grill have nothing to do with the sideskirts... If you get GTR guards, you need GTR indicators too GTS-t indicators dont line up with the GTR guards. With the bonnet you also need the GTR bonnet catch as the latch is in a different spot on the bonnet. Will try and get some better pics tomorrow. Any particular angles you want? All the fibreglass copies I've seen have been crap. They're made to suit GTS-t, but dont fit! What's the point of having the copy then!? Cant go wrong with genuine If you dont want the GTR bonnet and grill and want to let them go real cheap, let me know

Tie rod ends dont look the best, run your finger around them and see if you some out of grease out of em.

It doesn't have to be on. It makes no difference being on or off.

If you get GTR ones, your indicators, sideskirts and front bar wont fit/line up properly anymore.

Here's photos of my shitter with genuine GTR bar. You also need to cut the reo or get a GTR reo to fit the bar as the "mouth" is much bigger than the GTS-t bar. I can take some better ones if people want. They're not too hard to fit though, so if you've got one lying around, throw it on

Pfft, Phillip Island > AIR.

Looks good man. Nice wheels Wish mine was that clean

I saw someone with a highflow NEO turbo change to a HKS GT-RS and made more power everywhere. The problem is the rear housing is too big on the NEO turbo and the lil RB20 struggles to spool it early. If you can, see if you can get the R33 rear housing on there. Machined out first of course The spacers give you a fair bit more lock so they're definitely worth it. Also makes U-turns a lot easier Last run is by far the best Thanks to Ryan (5LEEPER) for the footage