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salad

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Everything posted by salad

  1. The elbow is the compressor outlet pipe, the very first bit of piping to your intercooler. The RB25 one is a bit bigger than the RB20, you can pick them up for around $50 in the for sale section. Everything else is bolt on.
  2. How low is the car? Centre of wheel to guard? If it's a road car, adjustable bushes are a good idea as they dont have the NVH of spherical bearing arms (most) and will last longer. If you really need lots of adjustment (very low car), you can look into adjustable arms with bushes such as the Whiteline ones.
  3. What were the alignment settings before?
  4. No, R33 GTS-t rears are too long for R32 GTS-t
  5. Actually, you want a bit of hose lower than the washer nozzles/sprayers, that will stop it gravity draining. Or alternatively, you can just take the stock check valve for the rear washer. On R32s it's just under the parcel shelf "flap". Take the rear seat out and you'll see what I mean. Valve has an arrow on it, make sure you have the arrow pointing in the direction of the water flow. If you just follow the stock hose for the rear washer, I'm sure you'll find it.
  6. My last pair of fronts (Toyo T1R) took about 200kms before they were nice and grippy, so just keep driving around, they'll get better
  7. Where you located? If you're in NE suburbs I can give you a hand. PM me
  8. It's not an RB25, I'd say it's an RB24 as the oil breather things are RB20 ones and it mentions 82mm pistons. God the google translator is shithouse...
  9. R33 GTS-t is 296mm, same as R32 GTR Other than that, everything looks right
  10. 2deg is too much on the rear for street driving. You need to look at around 0.5-0.75deg camber on the rear and about 1-1.5deg on the front. If it's still wearing too much after that, take it to a better wheel aligner... Some are really slack and dont care about what they're doing and/or have really crappy machines that are rarely calibrated so dont read right.
  11. Yep, just open practice for anyone that wants to drive down there. So yeah, I was thinkin we could all pick a date (available on mallala.com) and then head down there as a group for a bit of fun
  12. Offers? REALLY need to sell
  13. Toe is adjusted on the toe arm. If you dont have aftermarket arms, you will quite easily run out of adjustment if the car is low as there is not that much adjustment to the standard cam.
  14. But I need to buy myself tyres! Something better than the crap I've been using recently too... Gets too hot after just a few laps
  15. How much for 225/50R16 and how much for freight for 4 to SA? Cheers
  16. We could just get a bunch of people together and go out to a normal grip practice day at Mallala. $90 + $20 for temp CAMS licence. This way there's no organising the event as such, just choose a date for everyone to go out at once? Just an idea anyway
  17. Even if it's $600, add fitting and painting (I cant do it myself) and it's possibly gonna run me in the range of at least $1200. And then after that, I'd probably have to get a kit to go with it to really look the goods, so that's another big wad of cash. If I'm doing all of that, I may aswell get the whole car resprayed at the same time as it's a bit rough. So it'll all add up to a lot of money It may be quite cheap compared to everything else on the market, but it will do nothing for performance, so I dont think its necessary until I've got lots of money and nothing to spend it on. Each to their own.
  18. Not interested in spending ~$1500 (+ possibly new wheels and spacers) on looks, would rather spend that on a performance mod that would make the car go faster As above Dents are annoying, but with the fibreglass, if it happens again, it's not gonna be pretty. And I dont think the rivets thing looks great. My opinion anyway I guess, but not all that interested in a girl that just wants the car. I can fit 18x10s on the back now without rubbing, dont think I'd really be getting rims wider than that. Same as the first 2 pointsBasically, I would rather spend that much money on something that would increase the performance of my car. Right now, I need more power, so all funds go towards a new turbo so I can get more speed going into turn 1 and dont need to clutch a lot during turn 2 Sure having wider guards will let me increase track etc, but I could just as easily spend ~$2000 (guards + painting + BFO spacers) to have my shocks rebuilt with better pistons, more valves etc and have it grip a shitload more like that. From a perforamance point of view, it is very poor value for money and that's what I care about the most.
  19. If anyone's interested, here are some other people's pics from the weekend taken from NS.com including an article about the weekend. Article http://www.speedshots.com.au/gallery/drift...ftaustralia_r2/ http://www.pbase.com/mcphotographics/070414
  20. Just factory Nissan skirts. Like the GTR and type M for the 2door. Was chasing them for ages, didn't want a big kit, just a factory looking sorta thing. I'm happy with the way it's turned out
  21. None for me... I only buy body parts that are already the right colour and ready to fit Nah got no money and got more important things to spend money on, like a bigger turbo... Would love some though, would look sick and cover my damage well too , but then dont have the wheels to fill the guards etc etc.
  22. A few pics from SD round just gone. Car's still goin well, heaps of grip (when the tyres aren't overheated) just need to get some more power now! Only running on 0.9bar on the track cos I dont wanna lose the rear wheel So less than 180rwkw And decent tyres on the rear would be nice, ones that can take the heat of more than 4 laps...
  23. Wouldn't go less than 225/45 on the front, and wouldn't go less than 235/45 on the back, but that's just me. I run 235/45 all round on my rims which are the same size. Thinking of going 245/40 or 255/40 on the rear, but not sure yet. Those sizes are a bit more expensive than 235/45...
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