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Item: R32 GTR injectors Age: 15-19 years Condition: Good, injectors were cleaned and flowed before I put them in over a year ago. They have been sitting around in the inlet manifold for about a year not running now because my engine has blown Price:$350ono To Fit: (What car) anything they'll fit in Comments: Item: RB25 turbo with VG30 rear housing (basically an R34 turbo) Age: not sure Condition: Good, stuff all play, wheels in good condition, no smoke. Price: $450ono To Fit: (What car) an RB engine Comments: Made 206rwkw on 10psi on my first RB30DET. Would be good upgrade for an RB25 or even RB20 Item: RB30 Bottom end Age: unknown Condition: Suit rebuild Price: $100ono To Fit: (What car) Anything Comments: Bottom end is stripped down. There are 12 pistons and rods, 2 oil pumps, a sump, and that's about it. Bores are in great condition. Item:RB30 SOHC head Age: unknown Condition: unknown Price: $50 ono To Fit: (What car) R31/VL Comments: bought a complete RB30 for my Twin cam conversion and have no use for the head. The bottom end was in good condition, assume the head is similar. Item: R32 RB25DE Headgasket Age: Brand New Condition:Brand New Price: $100ono To Fit: (What car) RB30DET or R32 RB25DE Comments: Have no use for it as I'm using a metal Headgasket Location: Adelaide, NE suburbs Contact: PM or 0422 255 843 If anyone needs anymore info about it all, feel free to ring me or send a PM/SMS.

Louise triumphs over adversity once again... http://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/70055 He seemed pretty fine in the post race conference to me...

Yes the caliper itself gets quite hot, but how much of that heat goes into the caliper's lugs isntead of being disipated into the fluid, atmosphere, etc. Ally does work as that's what UAS use, and many people have used those without issue. The bearings can get hot, but I still don't think it's a huge problem when you're looking at the caliper flanges. In the end, it's up to you if you want them or not, but it will be a copy of a design that has been proved to work (when I finally get the exact dimensions). If you're really paranoid about it though, I can arrange for a different material to be used, such as 4130 steel but cost will be higher.

Hey mate, sorry, but progress hasn't been great. The bloke that I was supposed to be getting the measurements off of is out of the country... So I can either measure stuff up myself, make sure they fit and then get those ones made, or wait longer and get the actual dimensions of the UAS ones and exactly copy the design. I've done the stress analysis, and I'm fairly happy with it, except that I'm not sure what the temps will usually get up to, and the 7075 ally is very bad with heat, once it's over 90deg or so, the stuff gets a whole lot weaker, but I'm not sure how hot it would be touching the lugs on the caliper. I want to get this all done quickly, but I also don't want to get something made that breaks on me and others.

Yeah, these ones will be copies of ones that have already worked, the UAS ones. Hey, are yours like the first ones posted or the 2nd ones?

Wow that's cheap... I've spent so much building mine... If anyone wants an RB30DET, this is the way to go.

I'm fairly sure they're the UAS ones yeah? But yeah, they're going to be very similar to those, except will be much cheaper once you source the rotors from the RDA group buy. So yeah, definitely under $500 for the kit isntead of $900 like UAS sell

There's 343mm rotors out there, think they're for expensive kits though...

Sled wins! That's not exactly good fuel efficiency Steve...

No worries will do. I am fairly sure these will come in a decent amount under $150, but have just put that price up as a worst case scenario. The R33 ones need a different design as the spacing between the holes radially needs to be 14mm instead of 22mm, so it leaves bugger all material around the bolt holes, where the stresses are highest anyway. The UAS ones are sort of shaped so that the bolt holes aren't in a line, but moved over a little bit. So these ones wont work with R33, unless of course people want their pads hanging over the rotor by 8mm

Hi guys, I'm currently talking to a machinist who's willing to knock me up 5 pairs of caliper extension brackets for R32 GTS-ts. They will mean that you will be able to run 324mm rotors (R33 GTR size) but use your standard calipers which have almost the same pad area as the Brembos. So good budget upgrade if you get yourself some rotors (like in the RDA group buy). The rotors there are worth around $300 delivered if I remember correctly. Now I'm just waiting for the exact dimensions off a bloke that has the UAS ones and then I can give the machinist the drawings and he'll make em for me. Material will be aerospace grade 7075 T651 aluminium (higher yield stress than 4130 Chro-Moly steel, but 35% of the weight). Will have new high tensile bolts and stainless washers supplied with it. Then get yourself some rotors and you have big brakes for pretty damn cheap. I still have to get exact sizes so I know how much material I need to buy, but I don't think they would be over $150 a pair. UAS sell the kit for ~$900 with DBA4000 slotted rotors, so if this is right, it should come to under $500 for the same thing but RDA rotors instead (some say better than the DBAs for track work). I'll be running these on my track car and I think Cubes is keen on a pair too (has also said I can post this thread here), so that leaves 3 other people that can get some big brakes for cheap. So put your hand up if you're keen on some more stopping power. Just a note, I'm fairly sure that these AREN'T street legal and I'm not sure if you'd be able to make them street legal. So this is aimed at people that track their R32s Cheers Showza

What rods have you tried? I thought I remember you had ISC tension rods, is that right? If that is right, could it be that the rods aren't giving much adjustment? Or have you compared it to other people with ISC rods? Or have you tried other ones too?

Does anyone know where I could get Trust turbo gaskets from in Adelaide? I have an RB T67 kit and need the turbine outlet and ext. gate gaskets. I've tried MTQ but they only have the OE Mitsubishi stuff, like Tritons. Cheers

KPI is the angle of the steering axis when looking at the car front on. Kinda like caster, but looking from a different angle. The KPI will increase at the same rate as your camber when this is corrected, which will put it close to where it should be, will only be off by around 0.15deg. I should also mention that the numbers of the wheel alignment, don't go up to 100, they only got up to 60, so the front left has 3/4deg more camber than the front right. The extra camber on the front left isn't a horribly bad thing either, it also helps the natural pull towards the gutter due the camber of the road. It's not ideal (and should be done with caster), but it's not the end of the world either.

It's very hard to calculate the rate of those swaybars because of all the bends and funny angles. Someone would probably have to work it out experimentally, and then measure the motion ratio to work out the effective wheel rate (spring rate at the wheel). Anyway, swaybars do add to the wheel rate in single wheel bump (nothing in 2 wheel bump though), but because they work by pushing down on the outside wheel and lifting up on the inside wheel, they resist roll on both wheels. This means that a swaybar can provide the same roll stiffness as springs, but with a lower wheel rate, and hence you feel less discomfort. Although it's better than springs, it still does provide more discomfort than stock. I would also be looking at your reset springs with stock shocks. You've lessened the travel of the shock, but the spring rate and shock valving is the same. This could mean you're riding the bumpstops causing the discomfort. Wrap a cable tie around your shock shaft and go for a drive, then you can see if you're using up all the travel and riding the bump stops.

^^^ Just youtubed it. Very funny, for anyone else that's interested http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scoDILMYeQ8

I had one on my RB20 which was bloody tired (popped a few weeks later, not turbo related) and it still made decent power and was quite responsive. I think the thing should've made more power if the engine wasn't on it's last legs too. But still, 220rwkw on 1.4bar, not too shabby. I'd love to see your dyno sheet of it being a pig, because mine completely disagrees with that. Just the usual mods, nothing special, just turned the boost up lots Note: That's an RB25 turbo, not "standard" as the sheet indicates. Boost starts ramping up 400rpm later and ramps up at the same rate. It started making more power than the stock RB25 turbo at 3600rpm and made full boost of 1.4bar (20psi) a smidge after that. 1bar came at around 3300-3400rpm.

I'm also going to say give TWR Lucas pads a go, damn cheap at around $60 per end and damn good performance. Takes around 5-6 hot laps for any hint of brake fade, and even then, I'm fairly sure it was fluid fade, and not the pads. They did seem to wear fairly fast though, were from brand new to a few mm in just 30 laps. Trying QFM pads next. Rated to 780deg with cold friction of 0.40 and hot friction of 0.48, so not too bad at all.

Still got a set of injectors, not sure about the fuel rail, I'll have a look for you tomorrow in the daylight.

Lowering will increase your static camber (which you can fix), but your dynamic camber will also increase which isn't easy to fix. What this means is, as the car squats, you gain heaps of camber and throw away grip. Also, just going by theory, I would think for a 4wd, you'd want as little weight transfer rearwards as possible, so you have the most even weight distribution between the front and rear tyres as possible. If this is the case, then you'd want to run something a bit firmer in terms of shocks/springs. But this is just theory, someone with experience would be able to tell you more

What was in the Evo beforehand?

Looks like a bent front upright or something to me. Huge difference in KPI and this isn't showing up on the camber, so there's something not right there. Rear camber's all over the shop, not sure if something in the rear's bent too or? The wheel aligner could've at least spent the extra 5-10mins to get the toe even on the rear.

I don't really agree with that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWvelG8gsMg To me that video says he went into the corner too fast, and the car slid as he was about to go off the corner anyway. If his pass was completed, there was no need to take the outside line (he didn't exactly leave much room for Vettel anyway), so why did he do it? If his pass wasn't completed, then he gained something from cutting the chicane.

I'm thinking the scrap behind the Ferraris for 3rd place is going to be pretty interesting. Can't wait for the race, even better that we can watch it on TV at a normal hour now

But you're forgetting that Louise is Senna reborn, he would've lapped them easily