salad

Yeah, interested in boot lid too What condition is it in as in scratches etc. What colour? Pretty keen if it's silver

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=160054 Scroll down to post #14, it has the voltages there. That's all the hicas computer does

You will need upper spring seats (strut tops). I assume you have rectangular coils as you have said coilovers. You may be able to buy an adapter to use your strut tops, but I would recommend just finding some 2nd hand strut tops, or even just a whole set of standard struts for $200 or so. The Bilsteins come with a lower spring seat so you dont need to worry about that

An alternative to removing the bulb from the dash is cutting one wire on the smaller of the two plugs into the hicas computer. It is green with white trace line, and is in the bottom left corner. I found this easier than removing the dash to pull the bulb out and the light will still come on if you have low power steering fluid. You can also just leave the smaller plug out and it has the same effect, I didn't notice anything else going wrong when I did that.

Bushes used to align your rear subframe and locate it to the chassis better. They change the amount of anti-squat in your suspension. More anti-squat = less squat, less anti-squat = more squat.

0mm toe on the front and 2mm overall toe in on the back. And excuse my ignorance, what's tracking?

The HICAS computer must be plugged in otherwise you get heavy steering with the R32 rack. I think it is those two wires there that do it.

My guide was better before the stupid NS mods moved the pics out of order...

Bump Stuff has to go, make me an offer!

R32 GTS-t Front and rear swaybars Intercooler + piping Cat converter

Where have you seen the Greddys for $1150? Last I saw they were selling for around $2000. And the cheapest price I've seen on Tein Mono Flex is $2500 (granted I havn't looked very hard). The prices there seem pretty cheap Have you thought about the Whiteline/Bilstein groupbuy? The S13 version should be completed soon.

Captive at full droop means when the shocks are at full droop (eg, car is jacked up and wheels are sagging all the way down), the springs are still held firmly by their preload and can not move. Your fronts are captive at full droop in the front. Dont know about rear as we cant see them.

After a bit of screwing around, the car is back up for sale. This thing needs to go, so make me some offers

Nice one Cubes And Roy, I realise that the RB20DET-R is the king of the RB20s, but still I dont like how Nissan gave the RB20s max power at pretty much the same RPM as the SR20. Afterall, the SR20DET doesn't like to rev at all, and the RB20 loves it, but it doesn't seem to show when power is concerned. Eh, it's just my thoughts, I like the RB20 and wish it was better...

Getting a bit off topic now, but thought this might interest a few people http://hondaswap.com/members-lounge/engine...n-speeds-72614/ B18C5 is actually 81x87, oversquare engine, and redline at 8400 M3 is 87x91 with 8000 redline Sorta makes you wonder why Nissan didn't make the RB20 have max power and redline a lot higher and use shorter gears...

That's how they are. Have a look at your factory HICAS unit, it's ovaled out too

What's the offset of the rims? and 17x9 all round I'm assuming?

Hmm, odd, I've never seen a machine that has +ve as toe out, always toe in, but my experience is fairly limited, only used 2 machines before. But yeah, it is unlikely that the run of the mill tyre store will set a car up with toe out (unless requested), always have toe in to offset camber wear. Those toe numbers look very typical and look a lot like what the wheel aligner at my work does (and why I dont listen to his suggestions of how to wheel align my car for track work)

Go have a look at one of the many Hicas lock guides in the DIY section. The stock tie rods screw into the lock bar. Hicas models dont have toe arms, they have tie rods, like on the front. You have to start trying to do your own research, from what I've seen, every question you've asked so far has been answered many times in previous threads.

This is from a non hicas model. Tension/castor/radius rods are in the front, not the back.

Toe out does indeed give increased inside tyre wear, but I think you have it mistaken. Positive is toe in and negative is toe out, he actually has toe in front and rear

Most of it seems OK except rear camber. You need to even it up a bit more. Bit more castor wouldn't hurt and you probably want to even up the front camber. All the bushes can be bought from the Whiteline/Bilstein groupbuy. I would probably run 0 toe on the front though. Wheel aligners set it up like that for tyre wear to offset the camber. Here's the link to the groupbuy and SKs recommended wheel alignment settings http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467

I know Bendix dont make them, I had this problem last time I was looking for shoes. I just ended up getting the old oens rebonded. ABS did it for me. Think it was $50 at trade price, but it was a while ago now.

Good price on the pump, I recently sold my R32 GTR pump for $100

1) I would invest in the Whiteline/Bilstein groupbuy. Very good quality shocks, gives a really comfortable ride and handles really well on the street. Better than any other "coilover" I've experienced. 2) Sounds like you've still got stock shocks. Lowered springs + stock shocks is a bad idea. Have a read of this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=lowered 3) Resetting springs is not the best idea.