salad

Definitely Whiteline/Bilstein groupbuy. As you said it's not just coilovers and it's everything working together in a suspension system that makes it great, not one single component Why aren't Commodores fast when you put coilovers in them?

They shouldn't need to be plugged up. Front and rear steering are completely seperate except for a common resevoir. I do remember that there are no lines going from the front rack to the hicas rack though. Are you sure it's an R32 rack? I've got a feeling that it's S13 as they had a junction (completely seperate) on the rack, but it's been a while since I locked S13 hicas.

Nice, where'd ya find the rear pods? I need to find some 4dr ones somewhere!

Couple of vids from G1 Round 1

It's got GTR front bar and Nissan skirts on it now, looks a lot better. Will try and get some new pics of it up soon I guess. Just lazy Got some vid of the last comp, but yeah, that's about it, still waitin on pics...

Umm, I could understand an accidental double post, but SIX TIMES!?

Why the new cradle Huddy? Also, before you chuck the new one in, weld up the lower control arm mounts, apparently they break off a fair bit with track use and high grip tyres. Wouldn't be surprised as mine broke with just Antyres....

The rear shocks came out of a race car, I'm not too sure what piston they are. When I bought them I thought they were just the normal piston, guy told me after that they were a better piston. The Bilsteins usually have a normal spring seat that sits on a circlip in a groove. To convert to coilovers Bilstein sell a kit that includes a threaded sleeve (that sits on the circlip groove instead), lower spring seat, locking ring and upper spring seat adapter to use with standard strut tops.

I'm using Bilstein B6 shocks, converted to coilovers with Eibach springs. Rears have a better piston than the B6 though

^^^ Agreed EDIT: agreeing with dangerous_daveo, most drifters just follow what ever the japs do and think its sick. And most are cheap as anything so just get the cheapest coilovers they can cos lets face it, coilovers are coilovers aren't they?

Here ya go http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87826

Pics to [email protected] (2 underscores)

How well did the front bar fit?

What PCD are the spacers? And are they hub centric?

Bar would be sent via TNT with insurance

If those spring rates are right, the front will definitely work well with the Bilsteins (the Whiteline springs used are 165lb/in) but I'm not sure about the rears, they seem about right though, you will have to get SK to answer the question properly. There is a difference in heights front to rear as the guards are cut differently, more clearance at the front. It should be a bit more comfortable raised up a bit and less bump steer. Shouldn't be a huge difference though.

Haha, yeah, look at the tread width, 232mm. Should be a 235! It is a bit weird though as the Federal SS595 is a very wide tyre. 235/40R18 sits pretty much flush with the rim on a 18x9. EDIT, just saw section width of 260mm. I spose I have seen 265/35R18 on 18x8, but that was very bulged out. Thinking back a bit more, I've had 255/40 on a 17x8, and it was the SS595. Was quite bulgy but went on OK.

I wouldn't put a 255/40 on an 8" rim, absolute maximum of 245, preferably 235 or 225 though. 255/40 is nice on a 9" rim. And I think 245/40R17 on 17x8+35 will fit. It should just clear the upright (I've had 235/40R18 on 18x8 +38 before) and there should be a decent amount of clearance to the guard, will be fine if they're lipped.

I'm gonna say it was a combination of both, but I'm backing Beer Baron on this one as I know how shocking GT Champiros are. You can just buy the shocks for now, you already have lowered springs that aren't heaps different to the Whiteline lowered springs. The Bilsteins will easily handle the small difference in spring rate.

Yes they're the same. What you needed was an air-hacksaw. Makes the job MUCH easier.

The cheap Teins are made elsewhere, but the more expensive ones are still made in Japan, which ones though, I dont know. Bilstiens and Ohlins aren't exactly cheap, your best bet would be the groupbuy that SK is running. Prices for R32 are quoted above. Ohlins are damn expensive and I somehow doubt you could afford them if you were considering HSD. Bilsteins are all made in Germany. I'm fairly sure all the Ohlins are made in Sweeden, but I'm not certain.

For the sort of money those coilovers are worth brand new, you can get the Bilsteins made into coilovers. $2262 they cost me and use your own factory strut tops. If you've got a set of coilover tops around (suit rectangular coil) then you can take another $100 off the price. This includes custom spring rates (Eibachs, best springs in the world) AND revalved to suit. I see some sponsors doin Tein flex for $2050 and Tein monoflex for $2450 For the normal strut and spring combination it comes to $1436 for the set delivered. EDIT: of Bilsteins ^^^

Front strut brace is worth while. Aside from that, I agree with everything djr81 has said. A lot of those mods seem to be the typical drift mods. With the rear tie rod brace, you'll actually find that it's a toe arm brace and it's designed for non hicas models. If you have a hicas model car, you dont need toe arm brace or adjustble toe arms, you already have a solid brace there and the stock tie rods have plenty of adjustment And the pinepples are a worthwhile investment too

4DoorWhore: HSDs look like this http://www.hsdcoilovers.com/range.html Most people in aus are running the HRs. They are cheap and seem to work well for the drifters. Halo_a: They dont make Tein HAs anymore. And most (if not all) of the Jap shocks are arguably inferior to European shocks. But if it makes you happier, get the cheapest nastiest set of coilovers you can find. After all, the more expensive stuff isn't like that for a reason is it?

It may seem like a good idea to have a choice of 4WD and RWD, but the fact is, the GTS-4 has very similar weight to the GTR with much less power. In comparison to getting a GTS-t, you will get less power at the wheels due to the bigger gear box. 10-20rwkw is about right, probably in the higher range. You have an extra ~150kg over the front wheels. Along with not being able to run as much castor due to drive shaft angles gives poor turn in, extra weight gives poor mid corner. Only upside is traction on corner exit, and that's only good if you're having trouble getting it to the ground with 2WD. And since it's got an RB20, not an RB26, chances are it's not gonna be running heaps of power.