salad

You can just cut the sender wire on the hicas computer. Bottom right of the smaller plug. Green with white trace line. And that is the best way to loop the hicas lines. There are a couple of guides on here of how to do it, and I've done a detailed one on ns.com too.

Was 355 front and 345 rear. Can have 5mm lower too

Take it to a tyre shop, and they'll be able to tell you if it's fine. It sounds to me like it's fine though, but you really need pics or to inspect it in person to know

Stock rates are something like 125lb/in (2.2kg/mm) in the front of R32 gts-t. 10/8 is very stiff, you will lose compliance, so handling will be sacrificed and you will lose comfort. It's lose lose, so dont bother

Check that the solenoid under the plenum is unplugged electrically. I've found this as a cause of a lot of hicas problems involving heavy steering.

Bump Deposit taken on 18" Kumhos

The rear swaybar should come with links as the stock ones dont go into the swaybar. The stock arangement is the link itself goes through the swaybar. The Whiteline arangement (to accomodate for adjustment) is the link is beside the blade of the bar and then they are connected by a bolt.

R32 GTS-t, Whiteline solid front 27mm, rear 24mm with 7/5kg/mm springs with the groupbuy shocks revalved to suit.

You would need to get rectangular coils so that it would fit into the coilovers. I'm not sure if Whiteline makes them, I havn't seen them anyway. The shocks would then have to be revalved. You're much better off just buying the Whiteline/Bilstein groupbuy

Dampers do a lot, but they're probably not the most cost effective method of improving handling as good dampers aren't cheap. Swaybars however, are quite cheap and I also found that they did quite a bit in improving handling.

Check out the groupbuys http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521 If you dont have an R32, search around in the groupbuy section for R33 or R34, you'll find them pretty easy

Hi I'm after the factory rear pods that go on the rear quarter, behind the wheel. Preferably in silver and no scratches cos I'm lazy and cheap and dont want to paint them... Would prefer them to be in Adelaide too so I can inspect them first, but if from interstate, I will organise postage. Cheers, Showza

SK has a few interesting things to note about spacers here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=spacer* But same goes for decreased offset on wheels really. But SK has said that he's seen quite a few spacers crack http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=spacer*

Search. Been covered a lot Same boost on both as they both have ceramic rear wheel. RB25 turbo is better suited to RB20 Here's a quick search to get you started http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...2Bvg30+%2Bturbo

Beer Baron: Are the Cusco bars adjustable?

I remember reading this thread a while ago http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hl=roll++centre Might help a little

For a street driven car, castor is definitely much better. Too much camber will wear your tyres too much. If you had an R32 though, I would go camber kit first because you gain castor as you increase camber due to the angle of the upper arm. Get castor adjustment and get as much as you can without scrubbing your front bar. Static camber: The amount of camber when there is no movement. No moving of the wheel up and down from bumps, no turning of the steering wheel. Dynamic camber: The change in camber as the suspension goes through its travel and the effects of castor as you turn the wheel

Bump Must be in SA, bit pointless interstate, cost me as much to get it over as it's worth

Stick with the Whiteline/Bilstein. G4 are cheap rubbish.

There is a guy selling a stock RB20 turbo in SA at the moment (Nisskid). I think he wants $150 for the turbo, dont quote me on that though... PM him

PM sent

Bump

Price drop $17000 ONO

Loop the lines like this Hicas lock guide The guide is for GTS-t but it's pretty much the same for GTR, just getting to stuff isn't as easy

Hooked mine up as cooler sprayers today. They work really well! Just need to get that stupid valve so it doesn't keep leaking out though...