salad

Does any one know which wire to cut to stop the rear wiper coming on when it's hooked up to the rear washer? Or have you guys all just disconnected the rear wiper?

From memory the spring rate from Kings was 175lbm/in compared to 165lbm/in for Whiteline for an R32 GTS-t. I'm fairly sure that Kings are usually a bit stiffer than Whiteline springs, I remember Gary (SK) saying something about that anyway.

So it seems that chassis dynos are giving rough flywheel torque figures, but including drive train losses. Does that seem a little odd and round about to anyone else? Any idea why they would do something like this? Giving rear wheel torque figures will give much higher numbers and look more impressive and actually be more accurate as there are no assumptions (except maybe tyre size, but this could be entered)

Either way, the curves will be the same as you're multiplying by a constant, so I guess it's not important, but it's the numbers I've never understood. I would love to know where the torque is measured, it's been confusing me for ages

Speed is more easily calculated than RPM of engine as you need to know diff ratio, gear ratio and rolling diameter to calculate RPM. All variables from car to car, where as speed is just measured off the speed of the rollers. I'm still not seeing where you're getting the equation from. Power = torque x revs, with everything in SI units, i.e. Watts, Nm, and radians/sec. Anyway, enough of that, lets look at an R32 (just cos I have the specs around). We'll assume the factory power and torque specs of 158kW and 245Nm. Drive train losses in 4th are about 50-60kW, so we'll take 55kW. That equates to 103rwkW. i.e. 65% of the stock power. Power is proportional to torque, so we will assume that at the wheels, 65% of the torque has made it there ignoring gear ratios. But 4th gear is 1:1 and diff ratio is 4.3:1 so we have to multiply these in. Engine torque x percentage of power that makes it to wheels x 4th gear ratio x final gear ratio = Wheel torque. So, 245 x 0.65 x 1 x 4.3 = 686.8 Therefore we have 686.8Nm at the wheels in dead stock form, much more than what you have in modified form. I have an old dyno sheet where it shows the tractive effort. I had 169rwkW and 3900N. 3900N translates to 1250Nm. 440Nm translates to a tractive force of around 1370N, not much at all. If you look at other peoples dyno sheets that have tractive effort on them, they will be quite high. From that you can work backwards and get the wheels torque I have confirmed my numbers with both this method and using the equation I stated at the start to get the same wheel torque figures.

We'd usually put 38 all round. As Busky2k mentioned, monitor the tyre wear, if it's wearing in the middle, you need less pressure, if it's wearing on the edges you need more pressure.

I've been very confused about torque readings as they dont seem to make any sense. 440Nm (which is not much at all) translates to a tractive foce of ~1370N. That's not much to move a ~1370kg car. Power(W) = Torque(Nm) x Revs (rad/s), so I'm not exactly sure where you got your formula from. And the revolutions here is the speed of the wheels, not the engine (you're calculating torque at wheels, not engine) Or have I been grossly misinformed about chassis dynos? The numbers that are given seem much more like engine torque figures than wheel torque figures. But for the dyno to work that out, it needs the rolling diameter of your tyre, diff ratio, and gear ratio. Even then it's a bit iffy as it's taken into account drivetrain losses, but there are no drivetrain losses at the flywheel. Most of the people that I have talked to seem to think it's a lot like power and their one figure means everything. But torque changes depending on which gear you're in, eg. in an R32 1st gear has 3.321 times more torque than 4th gear. If I am the one that's completely wrong, can someone please explain it to me. I'm going by mostly theory based engineering crap.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 Once you have measured your springs, SK can work out your spring rates and have a better idea of where to go from there. As far as I know, softer springs than the shock is designed for wont damage the shock, but it is bad for handling. The groupbuy is aimed at street driving with some spirited driving too, so it is pretty much aimed at what you use the car for. 2. The groupbuy uses springs that are only 25% stiffer than stock. If I remember right, that's about 3kg/mm in the front, and a bit softer in the back. 3. The longer coil would raise your car and probly not something you'd want 4. The bumpstops have to be trimmed to suit the ride height you're running. SK has a picture of where to trim the bumpstops that I'm sure he'll put up when he sees this thread. Find out the current spring rates, and then go from there. The problem with most of the Japanese coilovers is that they try and control all the roll with spring rates, which gives a very harsh ride. SK's groupbuy however uses swaybars to control roll and quite soft springs so ride comfort is retained. I've got the groupbuy too, but mine is more aimed at trackwork (7/5kg/mm springs, bigger swaybars, stiffer valving to suit) and it is still far more comfortable than any of the Jap coilovers I've had before. Not just because of the springs, but the dampers are more sophisticated and have a more digression than the Japs. I also rode in a car with the normal groupbuy and damn it's comfortable. But still very good handling on the street, mine is too stiff for the street and bumps present a problem when going fast for my car.

From the pic, it's a T25/T28 flange. They're very similar to a GT2530

Do you have the ballast resistor pack too? I'm assuming these are top feed, low impedence like R32 GTR injectors?

They're different. RB25 is MUCH stronger too. Silvia gearbox is about as strong as an RB20 box. You can bolt an RB25 box into a silvia though, just need a bit of customising

For the lower profiles you need to start running higher pressures. What size do you have? I'll tell you what we (Tyrepower) usually put in them

Huddy: I thought that the new bottom bracket was to lower the car more? I remember seeing a lot of threads on NS about people not being able to get their cars low enough. I would think that the spring rates would be pretty similar. Ride just seems more comfortable because the body is heavier. My 2c anyway

KKR430 sold Fuel pump still pending payment (not other guy's fault, I have to get off my arse and pull it out) Other stuff still for sale.

Yep, straight out the compressor housing into the actuator

How much camber do you have? If you dont know that, how low is your car? That's what's important, not wheel size...

Manufactures specs added

I know I'm being pissy, but I had to say something. A C-spanner requires less force to turn the collar as you have more leverage compared to turning the collar by hand. Same amount of torque is required.

What size? If they're 27/24, my mate should be keen

Preload will not effect handling unless you have a stupid amount on there. Say around 50mm on the front with an 8kg/mm spring. Changing height has no effect on spring rate either (on a good spring).

With spring seat adjusment, winding up raises the car. With base height adjustment, winding down raises the car.

A lot of coilovers may have base height adjustment, but quite often this is a cost cutting method to allow one shock body to be used to suit many many cars. Preload will only affect handling if you use a stupid amount.

Dont skimp on suspension bits. If a stock arm can fail, I have no doubt that a cheap aftermarket arm can fail. If you're doing pretty high speeds on a track, your suspension is definitely something that you dont want to fail... I can also back the SK groupbuy stuff. The shocks are amazing and they work incredibly well with the other things. If there was anything I was to recommend, it would be the SK groupbuy.

Fuel pump sold pending payment

Yeah, left the stock ones and added one. I didn't realise there was one on top of the spider gears though. Guess it makes sense that there would be one there. Must've been stuck to the housing so I didn't see it. I was mainly going off the guide I posted earlier. It said if I wanted it very solid, put 2 extra stock shims in, so extra 1.6mm, I put in an extra 1.49mm, close enough.