salad

I was actually just trying to sell my old VLSD centre so I just shimmed it to sell it. Sold it to a guy on NS.com and havn't heard back from him since, so I assume it's still goin. I can get onto him and ask him how it's goin if you want? I shimmed it the same way as a couple of my mates did aswell, and theirs are still going after over a year of track and daily driving.

I dont remember one being on the other side of the spider gears carrier, although it may have been stuck to the housing? There was a gap when I slid the 2 parts back together, but once the screws were tightened the gaps were pretty much gone.

How much you trim the bump stops depends on the height you have the car set to. Whether or not it reaches the bumpstops depends on height, shock rates, where you're driving etc. Increasing preload as you have done will raise the car, this may bother you. How much the strut compresses also depends on the shock. A high pressure monotube shock will compress less than a low pressure twin tube shock because of the gas pressure inside acting as a spring. Your rear struts have helper springs so that effectively gives bugger all preload when they are uncrushed. With the weight of the car down, the helper spring completely crushes so they dont have an effect on how the main spring behaves.

As far as I'm aware, Z32 and R32 have pretty similar suspensions, but the Z32 is ~250kg heavier. So you'll find it hard getting the Z32 to handle as well as the R32

I'm gonna say just got the RB25 turbo too. It's all I've got on mine too except I only got 183rwkw (tuned a bit safer), but I've got 1bar by 3300rpm. That's pretty impressive for an RB20! You're gonna find it hard to get that sorta response out of the aftermarket turbos available

Not sure if this helps or not but this is the guide I used when I shimmed a diff a while ago http://www.d1nz.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php...a84e160bbe32105 There was only 1 factory preload shim in mine though (R32). Here' a list of shims + prices that I found from another thread. 0.80mm = 3842440f60 price = $10.12 0.85mm = 3842440f62 price = $14.67 0.90mm = 3842440f63 price = $9.97 1.01mm = 3842440f67 price = $9.79 1.05mm = 3842440f68 price = $14.40 1.10mm = 3842440f70 price = $6.37 1.20mm = 3842440f73 price = $6.37 1.30mm = 3842440f76 price = $10.89 1.40mm = 3842440f80 price = $6.37 1.49mm = 3842440f83 price = $6.37 For a tight VLSD that's not locked, I would personally got 1.2 or 1.3mm shim without the stock shim. But I dont know, I havn't tried personally, just a guess. The one I shimmed up was for a guy that wanted it locked, so I put in a 1.49mm + the stock 0.8mm. Using the different final drive will put your speedo out as the speedo reads off the gearbox and assumes a final drive rato. If you've got the whole diff, count the number of teeth on crown and divide by the number on the pinion. You will have 5% less acceleration but 5% higher top speed.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...2Brb25+%2Bturbo Have a look through here. One of those threads should have your answer. R33 has a bigger compressor cover and wheel. R33 has 45Vx with x=1,2,3,4, cant remember, there was a bit of randomness too R32 has 16Vx think x=9?

They allow the rack end to travel an extra 6mm before it hits the rack body, which is what stops the steering.

Yeah, I've got these. They do their job very well. Takes 30-60mins to install. One of the best things is easy U-turns

I agree that the Tomei kit is an easier solution, but these 3 points are very easy to avoid when using a lockbar. 6. Cut the sender wire from the hicas computer. Green with white trace line in bottom left hand corner of the smaller plug. 7. Heavy steering is caused by people leaving solenoids plugged in. I had someone come to me complaining about heavy steering, unplugged the solenoid and the problem was gone. 8. PS pumps only get busted when people block the lines off. The rear stage of the pump is trying to pump fluid that has no where to go. I wrote a DIY on it a while ago, and have done it on 3 cars without a single problem. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=185697

The turbo made 185rwkw on a really low reading dyno. For example, my mate's car, fully tuned, rb25 turbo, 3" turbo back, fmic and gtr pump only made 156. On another dyno, his made 179rwkw. Simon Michelmore got ~200rwkw out of his on his ceffy, so I'd say around that level is what power should be at. If anyone wants to have a look ring/sms me. Cheers, Showza

KKR430 added

R33 - 16x6.5 +40 R34 - 17x7.5 +45

Price drop on fuel pump, $80ono

Took a whole heap more pics for another guy. Let me know if you want more detailed pics

From stock, the front bar is 21mm hollow and rear is 16mm solid. So, the front bar is roughly 200% stiffer and rear bar is 60% stiffer. It's a bit hard to tell the exact stiffnes of the front bar as the stock one is hollow and the ends aren't just squashed pipe like others. I have made a guess at the wall thickness going by an S13 and R32 GTR swaybar. EDIT, just noticed you have R33 GTS-t, I was going by stock sizes on R32 GTS-t. Post up the stock R33 swaybar sizes and I'll work them out for that too. Also tell me if the bars are hollow or solid. You should be able to notice by the weight of them and what they sound like when you tap them.

Do your strut tops have spherical bearings? If they do, chances are they're worn out and that's what the knocking is. Try taking your back seats out. Does the knocking get louder? When I had my old coilovers with spherical bearing tops the knocking got a lot louder with the back seats out, but with them in it wasn't too bad.

How wide? If its anything wider than 8", it will be touch and go on the front. I had 18x8 +38 on the front with 235 and there was about 2mm clearance to the upright. This was on a 32 GTS-t though. Upright is a bit different on R33

I use 350/340 too, but I've got the coilover conversion of SK's groupbuy (still organised through him though). Much stiffer springs.

The Tomei kit adds weight, but gets rid of hicas pretty effectively. Using the lockbar you can remove ~30kg of deadweight. Warning light issue can be solved by cutting the sender wire on the hicas computer. Lock bar is also the cheaper option I'm fairly sure.

It can be done jacked up and if you can get to it without jacking it up you can do that too (ramps, pits etc) as they work off the difference in the suspension from side to side. Might be a bit easier jacked up though. Not too hard to get the bolt back in, a bit of wiggling does it. Hole 1 is the softest setting. Further from the pivot point, the "softer" the bar is.

Shit, that guy in the silver 4dr at the end of the last clip is insane! Good thing you cut out the paddock bashing part

Depends on the turbo

GTR fuelpump added Post edited

C'mon guys, that's too much for just a diff centre... You're not gonna use it again after anyway I sold mine all shimmed up for $50