salad

Dunno where he got them, they came with the car when he bought it. He got the car off "toffy", shoot him a PM.

There is a huge thread on O2 sensors stickied at the top of this section. Get N15 pulsar plug, $90 from motortraders (trade price) and comes with plug. Plugs straight in, no fixing wires I just got one and definitely does fit

Front swaybar, rear shocks and castor rods are different. Fairly sure the diffs have different drive shaft flanges, might be able to swap flanges though?

R32 GTS-t 4dr Type-M RB20DET Bought the car dead stock with 25,000kms on the clock. I didn't believe it was genuine so ripped water pump and timing belt out straight away and they were like new. Everything in the car was immaculate and still had new car smell! So I sorta believe the Kms a bit. Originally an auto, but manual conversion done in Japan. Got it and started with the mods. Tried a few different coilovers (including Tein, Tanabe, Cusco and HSD) in the car until arriving at the current set up. Had the car for 1 month before it out was out at the track. Other mods followed as required (really should've done diff MUCH earlier, but ohwell). Blew the old RB20 (spun bottom end bearings) back in July 07, so then began looking for a new motor, was going to do RB25, but then found an RB30 cheap Engine mods: RB25/30 with stock internals, upgraded valve springs, RB25 turbo oil pump, GTR injectors, Z32 AFM, Apexi pod, 3" turbo back HKS Super Drager exhaust, Blitz DSBC Spec-R, and FMIC. Running RB25 turbo with VG30 rear housing. Suspension: Bilstein coilvers (Eibach springs 7/5 kg/mm), Whiteline adjustable swaybars 27/24mm, Tein castor rods, Adjustable front upper arms, Whiteline adjustable rear camber bushes (in traction rod) D-project rear upper arms, Apexi front strut brace, Uras tie rod spacers, alloy cradle bushes and HICAS lockbar. Driveline: Kaaz 1.5way, Exedy Sports Ceramic 3 puck, RB25 gearbox Other: Bride Zeta, Work Equip 17x9+20, 235/45R17 Proxes T1Rs, or 235/45R17 RE55S for circuit. Waiting on new rims from Japan (P1 Buddys 17x9 +17) VERY happy with the car, especially the suspension. Was aimed more at circuit racing as I wanted it to grip like a circuit car, and then make that slide. Handles MUCH better with the Bilsteins than any of the other rubbish coilovers I've had before. Still a daily driver, does its job well New RB30DET RB30DET (black) vs RB20DET with GCG highflow (red) Couple of vids from 07 G1 Round 1 - Thanks to Ryan (5LEEPER) for the footage Last run is by far the best Thanks to Ryan (5LEEPER) for the footage

They are MUCH softer than jap coilovers, and from what I can remember of stock suspension, only a little stiffer than that. Mind you, I havn't had stock suspension for ages now.

17" chrome rims sold Rest of stuff still for sale

It's 14mm, but as said before, I wouldn't stress too much about it

235 is max legal size to put on a 7.5" rim. It wont look rediculous, a little better than 225/50R16 on a 16x6.5" rim

I paid $500 without rubber

How tight do you want it? Add another stock shim (about $6 from Nissan), and it will almost be locked. My friend's diff with an extra stock shim is pretty much locked and has lasted over 1yr of daily driving and lots of track work. Mechanical is much better though.

http://www.isc-coilovers.com/Products/Applications Interesting R&D...

The spring does compress more without preload, but dont forget that to increase preload, you have to raise the spring seat up. In doing this it raises the car. In single way height adjustable shocks (without helper springs), you add more preload to raise the car up. If they have helper springs, there is bugger all preload force, helper srings are very soft.

They came with his car, and yeah, I'm pretty sure he has no reverse lights. I cant see any anyway.

Must go!

You'll need 4dr sideskirts too. On 32s for the front bar, there is a mount under each indicator, at the very back of the bar at the guard, 3 in the grill, and a few underneath.

Were they the 2dr lights actually transplanted over or were they covers? My mates got covers and then the reverse lights has been changed to the indicators and the covers are the same colour as the body. Looks alright. To swap the lights you need new rear bar, new boot lid and rear quarters modified

For R32, it's under the parcel shelf. Check there

I use Penrite Limslip 85W-140. 2.5L for $24, diff is quiet and works well. Cant go wrong for the price.

1990 R32 GTS-t - 47,500kms RB25 S2 turbo Monsta FMIC (cheapest I could find) GTR pump 3" turbo back Blitz DSBC Pod Z32 AFM (not needed yet, but it's on there for later) Remapped 182rwkw at 6600rpm on 14psi Full boost by 3300rpm Made a bit more power before (186rwkw) but did a few consecutive runs to iron something out and everything got a bit hot.

It's true that adding preload will add a force upwards, but dont forget, once the weight of the car is on the spring, all of this force is negated, and you end up all preload gone and the only thing compressing the spring is the car now. Preload adjustment is mainly for height adjustment. As far as I'm aware, preload has no real function as it is all taken up by the weight of the car. You will also notice that in some rear struts, helper springs are used which means you have pretty much no preload at all as the helper spring compresses before the main spring due to its much softer rate.

The front is a double wishbone setup and has 1 upper arm. This upper arm is connected to the strut towers and when the strut towers flex, it affects camber. Adding a strut brace removes most of this flex. The rear has 2 upper control arms shaped sort of like an A-arm in a double wishbone setup, but they are seperate arms, hence multilink. I think what djr81 is getting at is it is very similar to a double wishbone setup. The rear suspension arms are all connected to the rear subframe which is then bolted to the chassis. Nothing is connected to the strut tower (except the strut) so flex here has no effect on camber.

Almost everything in SKs groupbuy serves a good purpose, you definitely need to add radius/castor rod bushes to that list. Only thing that doesn't do much is rear strut brace. 1) Rear suspension is a multilink system, lower L arm and 2 upper control arms, with a coil over damper strut. Rera strut braces dont do much as all the suspension arms are connected to the rear subframe and not the strut towers, so flex here does not really affect much. 2) A "coilover" these days is usually a shock and spring combo that is height adjustable and sometimes damper adjustable. It's a bit hard to say, in reality any spring over a damper is a coilover. 3) Nolathane products are fairly common. I'm not sure what the compromise between handling and comfort is as I've never used them, but other people have said that they are faily good for this. Nolathane make a replacement for pretty much every bush in the car. 4) SK is talking about lateral movement down the length of the car, this is controlled with the upper control arm and radius/tension/castor rod. strut braces stop movement of the strut towers towards/away from each other. They are quite valueable and keep camber how it's set as you are cornering hard.

Hahaha, are you in SA? I'll give it a go if you are. R32?

Actually Steve works at Manta Racing in Richmond. I somehow got redirected there from ringing Stable, but yeah, went to see him at Manta. Official Bilstein dealer in SA, has a race car, so I'd say he does good work. Workshop is also spotless, something good to look for. I'll also say give Jarrod a try at North Terrace Tyres. Very helpful guy and sets up a lot of race cars, so I doubt he'd do the "close enough is good enough thing" Short of that, ring any motorsport tyre dealer. They SHOULD know their stuff and do good work. This includes; North Terrace tyres Jack Baker Tyrepower (not sure if they're still a motorsport dealer though) Bridgestone Macgill City Discount Tyre Keswick Adelaide Radial Tyre Tyrepower Blackwood Think there are others (motorsport dealers), but I cant think of them at the moment.