salad

www.nissansilvia.com Joke, but still, those AFRs are a little worrying...

She'll be right. Most peoples cars held out on the XMAS drift comp and that was during the day. Much cooler in the evening Cant wait to get out there again Lets just hope too many people dont go out, so we get a decent amount of laps

9 +22 will fit. I've got 9 +20 on the front of mine with a good amount of clearance. You could get staggered sizes?

Vibrations caused by wheel balance, not alignment. Maybe one of the weights was knocked off accidently? Crooked to the left is the wheel aligner not being able to do his job right. Cant explain the other two... It should've tramlined real bad before with almost 5mm toe out each side! You also need a camber kit to fix the big difference in camber you have.

I doubt they will fit on the front. I've had 18x8 +38 on the front and they JUST fit. 18x10 +22 will stick in another 9mm. If you get a skinny enough tyre you could probably fit them. On the rear, you will be fine

32psi 220KPa 2.2bar

Yeah, and that's why it wears out. Goin round a right hand corner, the rear right needs to be turning faster than the rear left. But the LSD is making them both spin at the same rate. So you chew out the rear right.

200mm free height spring is fine in the front. If you have preload and base height adjustment, that is more than enough to make the height right. And then a new pair of 200mm free height 6kg/mm in the rear. So yes, you can just buy 1 pair of springs

How much does he charge?

Good luck with that

It's 3 nuts per strut! If they're little ones, just do it on the car

The rear swaybar is sposed to come with the link pins. You can get them from anywhere that supplies Whiteline stuff.

Need to know tyre size to make recommendations

When I have to do this with my coilovers, I take the struts out and use spring compressors. We have some real big ones at work so this makes it alot easier. It sounds like more effort, but it's actually quicker and easier. If you have access to some spring compressors, I would suggest you do that

17x9 +30 should need a bit of lipping, that's about it. 9.5 +15 sits out another 21mm, so you'd need some guard work done Fronts will be fine

Can they really tell AFMs? I've got an auto gearbox crossmember that you can try. It doesn't fit properly on my manual box... Stupid japanese didn't source a new crossmember when they changed it...

Price drop! Make some offers. NEEEEEEEED money

^^^Go have a look in a ceffy engine bay and find me the BOV

Well not exactly more resistance. They are less resistant to torsional loads when both are the same diameter, but they are more efficient. If you had 2 bars, 1 hollow and 1 solid of the same torsional stiffness, the hollow one will be around 30% of the weight. But the hollow one will have a much larger diameter to achieve the same stiffness, so then you start having troubles fitting them into standard D-brackets and much more expensive to make. Hollow spring steal isn't available in a huge range of sizes, is more expensive and more expensive machinery is needed to manipulate it properly. And there isn't much difference in brands of swaybars. They are all made from the same grade spring steal. The Japanese also get their spring steal from Australia

To remove the internals of the rear stage of the pump, you have to take the pump off, take the cover off, and remove the impeller. Fairly length job. If you just loop the lines, either straight out the pump back into the resevoir or looping stock lines with a bit of hose, it does the same thing, but is a 30min job. If you do modify the pump, you will save a poofteenth more weight, and you can plug everything else up. Do it if you can be bothered... But if you just loop the lines, you leave yourself more open to install a powersteering cooler later on

What spring rates you have again? was is 10/8? I wouldn't be getting a 27mm front bar with those rates, or a 24mm rear bar. I'd say 24/22mm would be the go. Whiteline swaybars are also solid. Hollow swaybars are better, but FAR more expensive.

A31/C33/S13/BNR32 are all interchangable, front and rear With HCR32 only the rear is interchangable with the above Rear A31/C33/HCR32 bar is 16mm solid as Simon said. Rear BNR32 bar is 25mm hollow, and rear S13 bar is 20mm hollow (memory is a bit sketchy on the S13 bar) HUDDY: Whiteline have 24, 27mm swaybars for the front of S13, and 22, 24mm for the rear. I'm pretty sure they have another size smaller for front and rear but I cant remember what it is. The biggest they make in GTR rear bar is 24mm, so no difference.

Go into the groupbuy section and find sydneykid's groupbuy for your respective cars and he has the specs in there.

Nah, bumpsteer is caused by suspension geometry issues, usually caused by excessive lowering. You'll be fine, get the right offset, probly around +30 and you'll be fine to run that size. Remember, the smaller the number, the further it sticks out of the guard.

Wow, a lot of questions... Spring rate measures how stiff a spring is and how much it resists a force to deflect. A 5kg/mm spring will take 5kg of weight to deflect 1mm. Pineapples are bushes used for rear subframe alignment. They are placed above or below the mounting points of your subframe to tilt it for more/less antisquat geometry. They also locate the suframe to the chassis much better. That is all right. They are only pillowball mounts if they use spherical bearings instead of bushes though. Castor is the angle of your steering axis, tilted back is positive. So when you turn the wheel you get camber, negative on the outside wheel and positive on the inside wheel Camber is the angle with respect to a horizontal plane, i.e. how much the top is pushed in/out compared to the bottom. Top of the rim pushed into the centre of the car is negative camber. Toe is the angle with respect to a vertical plane. If the front of the wheels/tyres are facing outwards, that is toe out (negative), if the fronts are facing inwards, that is toe in (positive) Height is determined by how tall the spring is, gas preload in the shock, mounting point of the spring, spring stiffness, etc. If the spring is taller, it will still compress the same amount with the weight of the car but the top of the spring is higher compared to a shorter spring, so the car is higher. If the mounting point is higher, the whole spring gets moved up, so the car is higher. If the spring rate is higher, it means the car wont drop down as much when the weight of the car is on it, so it will be higher, same goes for gas preload. Monotube shocks (usually run much higher pressure than twin tube) usually sit higher than twin tubes with everything else equal. Lowering the car does not compress the spring more. Compressing the spring more does not affect the rate for linear springs. Most height adjustable struts lower the lower spring seat. Spring doesn't get compressed, only thing that compresses it is the weight of the car (or preload) Stock springs are usually plain black. If they're painted/powdercoated a different colour, chances are they're aftermarket. If your shock doesn't have the spring seat welded to the shock body, then chances are they're adjustable. If you can see thread where the springs seats are, then they are height adjustable. If not, and there are no welds, then the spring seat is probly held with a circlip. Getting more grooves machined in will allow for height adjustment. If you already have these grooves, you can adjust the height.