salad

Tell me you dont want this

Offset bush was in the outer bush. The instructions on the kit stated +/- 0.5deg and that is what it gave. I thought they gave a lot more adjustment than that... That's what I was led to believe anyway

What arms do you have Dave? I got mine off yahoo auctions and brought over.

GTR bar added Bump

Adjust it so that the centre of wheel to guard heights are the same, not the amount of preload. For the amount of load that the car places on the spring seats, preload is negligable once the weight of the car is down.

Newton (NE suburbs)

Yours is the standard bar, Type-M is squarer. i.e. doesn't tuck in at the bottom

I use a KAAZ 1.5way for drifing. Went 1.5 cos I wanna do circuit aswell. Very happy with it, for how much they cost, its great Could see how it could be better though...

Hey guys I wanna get rid of 1 of these 2 sets of rims. Not too fussed about which ones, but there is no need for 2 sets. Genuine Work Eurolines (have stickers on inside of rims. Front: 18x9 +32 235/40R18 Federal SS595 (20% tread) Camber wear on 1 edge Rear: 18x10 +32 235/40R18 Federal SS595 (20% tread) Camber wear on 1 edge Some rash that has been cleaned up a bit. No buckles or dents. Came off a Celsior, so 5x114.3. I put the rears on my R32 ages ago for shits and giggles and they stuck out a good 20mm... Havn't tried the front so dont know if there is big caliper clearance, there appears to be a decent amount of clearance though. After $2100ono Pilot racing rims Front: 18x8 +38 235/40R18 Toyo TPG (40% tread) Worn on edges from flipping on rims and running too much camber Rear: 18x9 +45 235/40R18 Kumho 711 (70% tread) Worn dead evenly, plenty of life left Fronts are in average condition with scratches, rash, etc. Rears are in good condition. No buckles or dents. They came off my R32, come pretty close to filling the guards. Have replaced them with P1 Buddys. They have been on an R33 aswell and clears the calipers on both (JUST), more clearance with R33 though. after $1000ono Thats the best and worst ones If you're after new tyres, give me a call and we can work something out, I work at Tyrepower so I can get you some new tyres pretty cheap, the ones on these rims aren't great... All tyres except the Kumhos will need replacing soon Basically, I'm selling 1 set of rims and the other set is going on my celsior for when I sell it. Pretty negotiable, not too fussed on which ones I sell, but yeah, only 1 set is being sold. Also have an R32 GTR bar to suit GTS-t + N1 slots and a pair of his sideskirts. It is the ones made by "sly14" and is in the exact same condition as when I bought it. I have decided that I want the stockish looking car still. They have been rubbed back and is ready to paint. I want $370 for the bar and slots and $230 for the sideskirts. This is exactly the same bar as sly14 is selling except for $80 less. He charges $350 for the bar $80 for N1 slots, and $250 for the skirts. A rough price on shipping interstate is around $70 And a pair of 235/45R17 Firenza ST-03 with 90% tread, near new They came with the new rims I just bought but I'm about to buy some new T1Rs, as they are more performance orientated than these After $200 for the pair. PM, post or sms/call 0422255843

HOLY CRAP! That's amazingly cheap

Nah, I dont mean symmetrical that way, I'm saying the 2 bits going into the turnbuckle are the same length, unlike the JJR one, it appears that one is longer than the other, and doesnt have the threaded section all the way up. These are the upper arms I have Obviously as they're threaded I have them staggered like they are meant to be. I did however accidently put them in staggered the wrong way, far too much castor and dick all camber. Something like 16deg castor and 2 deg camber with arms at minimum length. In comparison, the right way around, my arms max out at 6deg camber, more adjustment than I could ever hope for

NSX does quite well, but it also has 50kg extra ballast compared to the rest as it is an MR. This years NSXs went back to 3.5L NA engines instead of 3L twin turbos though, or maybe they changed during the year or something, eitherway, they are running the NA engine now instead of the turbo. Seems like an odd choice...

They have a very similar design to the ones i got from japan, except mine are symmetric. i.e. the threaded parts dont have 1 longer than the other. Seems to me like it would be more hassle to do this... 3 different parts instead of 2 different parts Looking at the Noltec catalogue, adjustment is via the 2 parts of the arm sliding inside each other and then are locked with grub screws (think camber tops, that style of sliding and locking). These designs are known for slipping when used for control arms. They also retail for $691.43 according to their site... Have you thought about just getting camber adjustable bushes? These are under $200, last time I looked (a while ago) they were being redeveloped to stop the excessive wear of one of the bushes and they were also coming down in price. They have now come down to $187 (i think) so I assume they are now stiffer and last longer?

I'd be leaning more towards upper as both caster and camber are out by a fair bit. Lower control arm has to move back a decent amount to decrease 1deg, and the radius rod will stop this, it cant really stretch. He actually has 4.1mm toe in. It does seem high though, but wheel aligners do this alot to counter excessive camber wear.

GTR bar added

Dont forget that drive train losses are proportional to RPM and effected by gearing, it is not proportional to power. Losses should be in the 50kw range? If so, equates to ~890hp at the flywheel

For the camber and castor kits, try the Whiteline/Bilstein Groupbuy Except the camber kit is now $187 instead of $277 (from memory, has gone down a fair bit in price though) From those specs I would guess that it is the left upper control arm that has a problem

Preferably Silver and in good condition Have an unpainted GTR bar to suit GTS-t that I will swap + cash my way Cheers, Showza

Here's an option that you may think about, not saying it's the best idea, but it's definitely the cheapest. Take it to another tyre shop and ask them to put a plug in it and tell them that it is for track only use. They should still be alright with doing it if it's track only use. And then just drive around on it normally. If as you've said it's just a nail, then it should be fine. I've done this with plenty of tyres and it has lasted ages. Another option, which would be better is to get a major repair done on the tyre where they vulcanize a patch into the sidewall. If the tyre is brand new, the guy should've mentioned this. Well my store sends off a lot of tyres for major repairs, so once again, I'm makin a couple of assumptions

Toe is always done last. Order of traction rods and camber isn't really important. They should both be set evenly to keep the distortion of bushes minimal

Not just yet. It is sold when I see money And I still have to get a price for postage. Anyone got any ideas on how to pack/post a bar?

Thanks Gary!

Would having different amounts of preload on each strut effect handling much? I always thought that the effects of strut preload would be bugger all, but some other people have been trying to convince me otherwise Best way to check for preload on swaybars?

Will take some pics tomorrow, too dark now.

I have a GTR bar to suit GTS-t, I bought it off "SLY14" but have now had a change of plans as I dont want a big front bar with no sideskirts and rear bar. It comes with N1 slots aswell. He sells them for $350 for the bar and $80 for the N1 slots. Will let the bar and slots go for $370 FIRM, so $80 for the exact same thing He says he's had many people buy bars and fit them and they have all fitted well, so PM him about fitment, not me. The bar has never been fitted, and has just sat around in the shed. PM, post or sms/call 0422255843 Cheers