salad

Completely agree that the handling improvement outweighs the weigth difference, but I think the weight difference is more than 1kg going from standard to 24mm solid. More in the range of ~4kg/bar isn't it? Afterall, the standard rear bar is 21% of the weight of the solid 24mm Whiteline bar.

Not quite. A 25mm solid bar is 191% stiffer than 25mm hollow with 2.5mm wall thickness, so almost 3 times as stiff The 25mm solid bar is still 64% stiffer than 30mm hollow but the hollow is 23% of the weight. One way to have the same stiffness as a solid 25mm bar is to have 33mm OD with 3.2mm wall thickness. This bar will be 32% of the weight of the 25mm solid. There are endless combinations of OD and thickness that you can go through to make the same stiffness though.

Ah, learn something new everyday but still... MISS JANE!?

Apparently, on turn in they turn in the same direction as the front wheels, but after the weight has moved, they turn in the opposite direction, hence the feeling of the rear being unsettled and sliding a little

There are more inputs to the hicas computer than just speed. It definitely works under 70kms aswell, you can feel it. But it doesn't work when you're not pulling much cornering force. i.e. it will not work when you're parking. So it should not help down small streets. Also the toe angle changes are limited to around 1deg, not enough to help you manouvre tight things

It is not a fulltime 4WD system. It is RWD most of the time and then when it needs more traction it splits some of the torque to the front. The maximum split is 50:50.

What kit is it? Mine is the Monsta Performance kit and it fit without me having to cut the reo, just relocated the horns, cut the hole in the body and the rest was pretty self explainitory

Hi I have been playing around with the heights in my car a bit lately and can not get them right. When the strut is at the same height side to side, the front left is around 15mm higher and the rear right is about 15mm higher. I have swapped struts side to side so there is nothing wrong with them. I have only had one accident where I hit an air barrier, but it was like this before hand. I do not know the history of the car in japan but it came over with 25,000kms on the clock and seemed genuine, everything was in amazing condition and no signs of repair I was wondering what do I measure from/to on the chassis or anything else to see if this is bent/twisted. If it is, what can I do about it? Has anyone else got any other ideas what it might be? I was also thinking maybe the strut towers were a little out of whack. Any help would be great Cheers, Showza

If not mandrel bent, the cross section across the bar is not uniform and therefore stiffer in some sections than others. The better upgrade depends on what spring and shock rates you are running. GTR rear swaybar is indeed a good value for money upgrade, but it is no where near as stiff as the aftermarket whiteline ones available. 22mm swaybar is 74% stiffer and 24mm is 147% stiffer. With the Whiteline bars you also get the added bonus (if you choose so) of adjustability.

Engine torque figures are always misleading. The 2JZ has a redline of 6800rpm if i remember correctly, whereas the RB26 has a redline of 8000rpm, so this allows for the RB26 to have THEORETICALLY 18% shorter gears, which gives 18% more torque at the wheels, where it matters. The 2JZ has 15% more torque at the engine, so theoretically with the right gear ratios, RB26 has more torque at the wheels. But all this is pretty simplified stuff, the 2JZ still makes the torque earlier and I also believe that VVT would help the RB26 a lot. But yeah, addressing the original question, if your main purpose is for straight line, go the supra. Would probably have to say they look better too, another thing I guess you would want for the streets.

It is true that hollow bars are much more efficient at handling torsional loads and therefore you can save 5-10kg from them. But they are much more expensive as hollow spring steal is not cheap, the range of sizes is limited and it is harder to mandrel bend (more expensive machinery is needed)

The Whiteline ones are also urethane instead of silicone filled rubber. They are much stiffer and hold their shape much better under load

*sigh* Whiteline/Bilstein Groupbuy

How do shocks manage to give different amounts of damping at different speeds? Is this similar to how Bilstein achieve digressive valving in some of their higher end shocks?

Attessa is 4wd from GTR and GTS-4. I dont think there are any upgrade computers around because it is simply not worth it. Just rip it out

Hicas makes the car unpredictable near the limits as the computer acts slow, so you dont really know what is going to happen. If the rear toe angles are fixed, you always know what is going to happen

Yes the longer ones are the rears. Usually you will have stiffer springs in the front for FR cars, as there is more weight in the front to hold up. From what I've seen, the HKS progressive springs incorporate a helper spring which completely crushes down with the weight of the car on it. It is just there to keep the spring trapped at full droop. If you want to tell if it is a drift or drag setup, go have a look at the measuring spring rates thread. Measure you're springs as per the thread, and post the measurements there, Gary will work out the spring rate. Drag setups have spring rates around ~4/3kg/mm, where as drift setups have much higher spring rates (usually at least 8/6kg/mm)

I'm fairly sure that the Hiper D's are aimed at drifting and the ones aimed at drag are the Hipermax Drag. Should definitely be better than stock suspension, maybe a bit oversteery?

Stock is around 380/370, so you have changed around 30mm. It is advised that you get a wheel alignment

yep

Yes, heights should be 350/340 for ideal handling/comfort. Another 5mm higher on both is also good

Groupbuy And yes, replace both front and rear otherwise it will not be balanced. Only having front bar will make it understeery and only having rear bar will make it oversteery.

Rear bar will fit GTS-t but front wont as the front subframes are different (you have a front diff). The aftermarket whiteline swaybars are solid and considerably stiffer because of it (24mm rear is 147% stiffer than stock) You also get the added bonus of having adjustment in the swaybars to adjust to the handling balance you prefer.

As they are the normal japanese coilover, they probly have race springs which have flat ends so you will need to get a top spring seat adapter. You cant run these with the stock strut top as they are not designed for it and the ID is much larger. You also need all the bushes and washers that come with the stock strut so you dont snap the shock shaft.

Front: min thickness - 28mm DBA part number - 4963 Rear: min thickness - 16mm DBA part number - 908 Google for pads