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salad

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Everything posted by salad

  1. Is it oversteery at the moment? Just thought it might be with the stiffer spring in the rear. Standard swaybars?
  2. I'm also running these spacers and never had a problem. But yeah, a cooler should fix it
  3. Well they are the same size as stock R33 wheels but have a +45 offset instead of +40, so you have 10mm less track, so theoretically worse handling. I dont think 10mm less track is noticable though... So only gains would be aesthetic. They do look a lot better than stock R33 wheels though. I got them for my R32 just for the look of them. So it's up to you really
  4. You are talking about stock S15 rims, which are 16x6.5". For handling I wouldn't go over 205, if you want them for straight line grip, then go 225/50
  5. I had this problem aswell a while ago and was caused by too much castor. How much are you running? I'm now running 9 and have no problems (hicas looped SK's way)
  6. yep, plug the hicas computer back in and then cut the green (+white trace line) wire to stop the hicas light coming on.
  7. and 0.746 = 1/1.34 either or, and just remember that hp>kw so you figure out which number to use
  8. Stock camber adjustment is about +/- 0.25deg on the rear. Bugger all Need a wheel aligner to adjust it all properly. You could take measurements and do a bit of maths, but still wouldn't expect really accurate results
  9. GOOOOD, I'm glad someone has some common sense not to buy cheap crap.... YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
  10. This clip is real cool too
  11. I do mine every 2nd event Oil usually comes out decent
  12. 235 should not go on 7" rims, according to tyre manfuctures' books. I would fit 205/50 and 215/45, this is what I use on 7.5" rims anyway and they sit well on the rim
  13. Other rims added, better pics put up and orgininal post edited
  14. You do have an LSD. Probly not worth it, just buy a mechanical if yours is open wheeling now. To check if it's open wheeling, jack it up, hold one wheel and try and turn the other. If its really rooted like mine was, you will be able to turn one without the other turning
  15. You could always shim the diff. Another stock sized shim is $6 trade from Nissan and will add more preload making it tight again. But, it's known to increase wear and will open wheel again down the track.
  16. The Kaaz 1.5 way that I got came with the carrier bearings and everything else needed. I took the housing out myself and took it to a diff specialist who put it in for $80. But they were going to charge $550 if I just dropped the car off to them! Maybe they thought the whole rear end would have to come out? Either way, very happy with the diff, for $1050 delivered you cant got wrong! I just did the bed in process in the middle of the day in the work carpark, makes for some interesting looks...
  17. bump
  18. Hey guys 235/40 40% Toyo TPG $120 for the pair (bit of camber wear) RRP=$278ea These are not 2nd hand tyres that have been lying around in the sun for ages. I've recently taken them off my car to replace with P1 Buddys, so I have no more use for 18" tyres... 4x 17x7.5. +0 offset Came off papa's falcon, so 5x114.3, with a tough offset. Great condition, tyres have about 70% tread left. $800 ono Also have a lockkit lying around suit r32/s13 etc. Been holding onto it for a mate, but he just crashed his car... So yeah, $150 firm Will post anywhere at buyers expense. PM, post here or 0422255843 Cheers, Showza
  19. Front with fit with just lipping the guards. You might not have to lip them, probly be best though. Rears will need to come out about 10mm depending on how much camber you're running
  20. Would love to know offsets. Do you have some 18s in mind already? Keen to swap for 18x8 +32 and 18x9+38? If not, have cash waiting too...
  21. I think the point of having just bound adjustment on the cheap coilovers is the wanky "I adjust it softer for daily driving and then make it full hard for the track to make it handle siiiiiiick" Even if they did have rebound adjustment, there is no way that it could have a damping range large enough to cover all the spring rates they offer (2-22kg/mm). Shocks really do need to be valved to suit the spring. Damping adjustment should be to FINE tune your suspension. I also noted that they are all base height adjustable and that they offer their coilovers for a MASSIVE range of cars. So I wouldn't be surprised if they swapped the bottom and the strut top and had it suit a different car. If this is the case, it means they have a handful of shocks and they all supposedly suit around 50 different cars... Anyone else have any thoughts on this?
  22. 355/345 offers best handling and comfort
  23. 205/55 is a fair bit smaller than 235/55. The proper correct size which is only a TINY bit (</=1%) bigger than stock is 225/45R17, 255/40R17, 225/40R18, 255/35R18 Sometimes these sizes are more expensive than the usual 235 or 265 but then again, sometimes they are cheaper.
  24. ISC, D2, G4, Racing Logic all look the same but are different colours. The cheap shock is masked by huge spring rates. Also have a look at www.isc-coilovers.com They claim to have lots of R&D and testing, but they came up with some pretty odd solutions for spring rates for skylines, namely the same for 32, 33, 34, 2wd and 4wd, despite the massive difference in handling characteristics and weight distribution. They are also only bound adjustable and let you choose your own spring rates. I asked the guy a while ago if they revalved the shocks to suit the custom spring rate and they dont, so you will be lucky to get a shock that can control the spring properly. Personally, I would stay away from all the cheapies.
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