salad

I still believe the GCG highflow is great turbo for the RB20. I made 220rwkw on 1.4bar on the old clapped out RB20 that popped a couple of weeks later. I made 1.4 bar by about 3700rpm which is freakin awesome response for an RB20. I believe if the motor wasn't about to blow, it would've made more power.

The GT-RS wont make a shitload more power, maybe another 20rwkw. It uses the same turbine as the 2530, which is what's holding it back. GT-RS is pretty much a 400hp compressor and 300hp turbine. Not much point in getting more air in if you can't get more out is there? If you don't track your car, I see little to no point in going the bigger turbo.

Forgot all about this thread. Inlet manifold and plenum have now been sold.

I'm assuming rear if you're talking about straight line stuff? And no, that's not good for straight line grip, you will need to dial it out by a fair bit, 0.5deg would be more suited to your purpose. Try the Whiteline adjustable arms, they're RRP is around $300, they've got a heap of adjustment and still use a bush instead of a spherical, so quite nice for a daily driver too.

For more lock, buy some tie rod spacers, worth about $20 For less body roll, buy some upgraded swaybars, should set you back around $450 for front and rear bars. For more steering response, increase your caster, adjustable caster rods will do this, they can be had for $220-$400 depending on quality. Oh, and tension rod = caster rod = radius rod. There are more ways of going about these things, but I think these are the cheapest and simplest, so would be where I would start.

I've seen this happen on two other cars that I've installed ISC coilovers into and heard of a heap of other similar problems that people are having from forums. You get what you pay for unfortunately...

My mistake, I should think about things more next time...

Conrods sold

Can you elaborate on this? I've been under the impression that it's just the hard points on the chassis that the arms are connected to that affect geometry things like anti-dive. I didn't think changing the angle/offset in the arm itself did anything? Except change the effective length.

The valve on there is for re-gassing (usually with nitrogen), but if you can move the wheel up and down, my bet is that it's lost almost all its shock oil. Either way, it's not just a loss of gas pressure problem, they will need to be rebuilt or you will need new ones.

The GTS-t is different to the GTR in front, has seperate brackets for the caster rods, compared to the GTR where it's just one subframe. Anyway, to increase the anti-dive, you need to change the side view angle of the virtual wishbone (caster rod + LCA). So you want the chassis mount of the LCA to be higher than chassis mount of the caster rod. I'm not sure how you'd go about it on a GTR, but that's what you have to do anyway. Hope this helps.

ECU sold Conrods on hold.

Clutch slave sold ECU still for sale.

Clutch slave and ECU on hold

Yep

Bump, if the rods dont sell soon, they'll be going into my new motor, so anyone interested should get onto me ASAP.

Rear needs softer springs, the car will be quite oversteery otherwise.

That's not too bad Ash. How did you find getting power down out of the back hairpin (turn 5) and the top of the Ss (turn 7)?

That's the problem with the Japanese, they try to do everything with just springs. You need to find a balance between controlling roll with springs/bars/low speed bump/roll centre height. Each has their own seperate downside which degrades grip. Springs: The higher the rate, the less the compliance. ARBs: Work my transferring load from the inside wheel to the outside wheel. Therefore more lateral load transfer and less grip from the tyres Low speed bump: Works great on turn in and you can get good compliance with a fair amount of digression in your valving, but roll resistance drops off more and more the further you get into a corner. Roll centre height: The higher the roll centre (smaller the roll moment lever arm), the more load is taken by the suspension arms and more force is directed vertically (jacking forces). What this means is, weight is lifted off the wheels, so you get less grip from the tyres. What the best combination is depends on a HUGE range of things. You will find that most companies usually use big spring rates to mask a cheap/crap shock. Have a look at the spring rates that all the cheap generic crap are offering these days. And for some reason they think this is good for daily driving!? Also, as Roy said, having some roll is not the end of the world. As long as the car is at a reasonable height and the geometry is still decent, a little bit of roll is fine. Skylines have double wishbone/multi-link suspension, so they have camber gain as the car rolls. We dont have the problem (as bad as say Mac struts) of rolling onto the outside of the tyre with insufficient roll resistance or pretty high static cambers.

You're forgetting motion ratios. S13s have the ARBs attach to the LCA, and skylines have the ARB connect directly to the upright, giving a motion ratio of close to 1. S13 is much smaller, somwhere between 0.3-0.5. Similar thing, but not as extreme with springs. I do still think there is a mismatch, but maybe not to the extent that it seems just by looking and comparing with skyline numbers.

Yeah, Whiteline has a fair bit of info, pretty useful stuff too, not too basic, not too full on. Here's some real full on stuff for those that are really keen. It's mainly for suspension design and picking baseline spring/bar/shock rates. http://www.optimumg.com/techtips_techtips.htm

Ah, fair enough, I'll have to get it all measured up and see how we go with that. Anyone know of any cheap crank collars? The cheapest I can find are the Jun ones for ~$200...

Hi, I've searched around a bit, but cant really find what I'm after. I'm currently rebuilding my RB30DET but actually spending a bit of money this time. Anyway, I'm looking for forged pistons at the moment and I'm trying to find a company that makes them in standard size. Arias, CP and ACL all only make over size (0.5mm for the CPs and 0.5mm and 1mm for the Arias and ACL). The reason that I'm chasing standard size is my engine builder highly recommends that I dont bore it out if the bores are still fine now. If it matters the rest of the bottom end is; ACL Race Series bearings (mains and big ends) Spool H-beam rods GTR oil pump And getting the whole thing balanced Any thoughts on this? Some reasoning to back up the thoughts would also be appreciated. Cheers

There's no scrutineering for practise days, so dont worry about that. Hours are 10-4:30, 4 groups with 6x15min sessions each and a 30min lunch break. Driving starts at 10, but before you do that, you have to go to the office (next to the scrutineering bay) and pay. First timers also have to have a chat with Clem (track owner), so he can run through the do's and dont's of being on the track. I'd try get there at about 9-9:30. Like I said in the other thread, take some spare brake pads, or get some better ones first. If you drive anything like I did on my first time out there, you'll have to stop the day halfway because you've run out of brakes... Try get some TWR Lucas pads (from ABS stores), they're $55 and they deal with the heat pretty well, fairly nice bite too. Maybe get 2 sets of them as I've found that although they work pretty well, they still wore very quickly for me (for track driving anyway). Also, do 1 warm up lap as soon as you get out there, for tyres, brakes, etc and then go for your flying laps. I wouldn't go for anymore than 2 flying laps without an oil cooler, then do a slowish cooldown lap, this lets everything cool down, very important for your brakes and tyres too if you're on average pads and street tyres. Then go flying laps again, etc. One of the marshalls will signal everyone in at the end of the session on the pit straight (between turn 2 and turn 3), so then go for your cool down lap and come in.

The track day is this Ssaturday, so I assume it's because he's run out of time. Ash: What brake pads have you got? You really should go get something decent before going out there, or at least take a spare set, Mallala does go through pads a fair bit. Try get some Lucas pads, they're pretty decent and only cost around the $50 mark. Take plenty of water to drink for yourself too, it's very draining...