salad

yes i always have 235/40R18 on the front, and have run 195/55R16 on the back before, just for shits and giggles. usually i run 235/45R17 on the back though. commodore/falcon size, easy to get a hold of

ah, my bad, well some sort of metal that is heavier than nylon i was just going off what i had read on these forums

1. i dunno but i would like to find out. i recently just too my S1 turbo off and replaced it with an S2 (because the S1 was rooted) and noticed that the design of the compressor wheel was a little different. the smaller blades did not protrude past the tip of the bigger blades. and the S1 has a steel compressor where as the S2 has a nylon compressor 2. the S2 is supposed to spool faster due to the lower rotational mass, and seeing as rb20s cant spool turbos well, this would be better. 3. the elbow is the compressor outlet. go have a look at your turbo, it is the first pipe that comes off of your turbo, and goes into your intercooler piping 4. fuel pump is definitely a good idea, and you really should do it, just in case. another good bang for buck mod is to get your ECU remapped. cheap and just as effective as stand alone ECUs. and come with all the stock knock sensors, cold start crap etc

yeah, he did say later it more suited his driving style of being able to just yank the wheel and have the car (s15 GT-P race carturn. and then mentioned that he did get a little mid corner understeer, but was then able to get on the throttle earlier and have a faster corner exit compared with using swaybars. i would think that if using a high low speed bump and a relatively low high speed bump (for compliance) cornering performance would get worse and worse through the corner, so corner exit wouldnt be too good, but he says he was able to get on the throttle much earlier with a lighter bar and stiffer valving is this right? it doesnt sound right to me and beerbaron: what spring rates did your bilsteins have? and what size whiteline bars?

could you elaborate more on why picking up the side rear tyre is a good thing? i was talking to another guy that sets up race cars (believes roll should be controlled with low speed bump) and he was telling me this is why swaybars are bad, cos under enough load the inside wheel lifts up. but if cornering load is that big and the inside wheel was still on the ground, there would be bugger all normal force on it to create friction, right? thoughts?

check tie rod ends too

i dont think they will fix the problem if the bushes are leaking. you need the replacement bush from noltec. retails for about $250 $600 is a bit rich just for labour... i'd keep looking around

from factory they come with less tread than most tyres. my friend put them on the front of his cefiro and loves them. and before that he's had yokohama a539s and what not

well i know they fit R32/S13 anything that happens to be the same will also work

yo, buy my sh*t

seen this before. very crazy, but a good tribute i reckon

go to nissan to get new studs, theyre not much few bucks. the stud is not in your rotor, it is in your hub. just hit it with a hammer with the rotor and caliper off and it will fall out the back. dont be scared if you need to hit it hard. get a new stud, feed it through from behind and then get a washer and a nut and tigheten the nut to pull it all the way through. for this you either need hold the hub still, like with someone holding the other studs with a big screw driver and tighetening the nut, or put everything back on and get someone to hold the brakes or use a rattle gun

yep, get the whiteline/bilstein groupbuy

dont adjust your ride height. your centre of rim to guard height will be the same no matter the size rim/tyre. think about it you will have a lower top speed, but will accelerate faster. you will also have less sidewall flex because of the smaller sidewall. can possibly make the car more twitchy too

pic of the rear of the turbo is up there. 3rd one raise boost with a boost controller...

it shouldnt affect it unless you have adjustable bushes

get swaybars first. and then get the shocks later, im assuming you can use your springs with the bilsteins. measure them and then get SK to check the rates and he can tell you if they're suitable. the swaybars will control the roll well optimal ride heights are 350mm and 340mm (front and rear). 320mm rear is too low and handles like crap. D2 coilovers are crap, dont waste your time/money the groupbuy bilsteins are great. definitely get them

yeah, i'd rather wait till i have all the money to do it properly, just in case. want injectors, new pump (dunno if i want to trust a 16yr old gtr pump), and would want it tuned straight away FCD as far as i know changes what the ecu 'sees', similar to SAFC for rb20 may aswell just get the stock ecu remapped and tuned, does the job well

yep, everyone looks for damping adjustment when theyre buying coilovers but does anyone know exactly what to do when they're getting understeer/oversteer in the 3 sections of a corner? if you dont know exactly what to do, theyre probly a waste of time

as gary said, you need pineapples to align(tilt) the subframe

^^^1 bar will NOT get you there. nor will any other boost pressure. couple of mates have has this turbo on rb20s and the most either got was 205, other was 185. both after tuning. driven the one with 185, response is about the same as that of a turbo capable of 240rwkw... you'd think a 0.58 turbine A/R could achieve so much more... orginal question: ryan (1400R) is right, the td06-20g that he's selling (quite cheap too) will get you there. it also has the smallest exhaust housing and is quite a good match for the rb20. another option is the gt2871r from garrett, but with the stock rb20/rb25 exhaust housing put on it so that it bolts up. horsepower in a box offers this. these are the 2 options that i'm tossing up between (or was till i realised i dont have the money for support mods). both make similar power and similar response, with the garrett maybe a little bit better as its ballbearing

yeah, forgot to mention, having the car high is good aswell. the ideal heights of front:350mm and rear:340mm (30mm lower than stock) give much better handling than having the car on its arse (tyre up in the guard). and getting rid of hicas is a must. i prefer the thinking of setting up the car like a circuit car, possibly a bit more oversteer via harder rear swaybar, and then making the car oversteer myself. if its agreed that circuit racers get more grip out of their cars, at least that style of suspension should be in the front, right? i'm not saying that coilovers are not the way to go, i've got coilovers myself. im saying that all the roll shouldnt JUST be controlled with rediculous spring rates, like 12/10 with standard swaybars etc. should be more sensible spring rates i.e. 7/5 or around there with big swaybars to control roll (opinion shared by a lot racers)

i currently run (and am happy with) front: castor: +9deg camber: -3deg toe: -2mm rear: camber: -1.5deg toe: -2mm i will be running -1.25deg rear camber when i get my bushes in, but for now 1.5 deg is fine too. you said lowered springs, so i am assuming the generic lowering spring that offers a relatively small increase in spring rate from stock springs (compared to a race spring). if this is the case you WILL need swaybars to control the roll. whiteline is a cheap and effective option. and then you will have the adjustment to change handling balance to how you like (oversteer) either get swaybars or stiff coilovers. for that you may want to pop over and have a look at sydneykid's groupbuy

PM sent

heres the link to the swaybars it is true that not many drifters are using them, but its a trend that needs to be changed. circuit racers have realised that swaybars are a very good upgrade (ask sydneykid) and outweigh completely controlling roll with just stiff springs. i wouldnt say that the tie rod spacers are a necessity, but for the price of them, i dont see why not. i've been on stock lock for a year now, but ive just bought some spacers, cant wait to get em in and get out to the track!