salad

my bet is subframe bushes

my car pulled 170rwkw with rb25 turbo, exhaust, no cooler etc etc on 1bar then got it tuned and had a front mount got around 11-11.5 AFRs and pulled 156 @ 1bar on a different dyno. dynos are stupid...

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i've got this problem too i've had it ever since i got my car and then i got a GTR fuel pump and it got worse, so i'm thinkin i need a brand new fuelpump? only happens on cold start though

on r32 its the green one with the white trace wire. bottom left hand corner of the smaller of the 2 wiring looms on the hicas computer. dunno on R33, but get your hicas computer, pull the wiring out and then use a short piece of wire connecting each pin on the harness to its respective pin on the the computer until you find the one that turns the light on. once you've found it, cut that wire thats what i did on R32 anyway, dont think it would've changed dramatically for R33 give it a go

out goes to actuator and in comes from turbo/elbow, so yeah, you've got it set up right

SK's recommended heights for best handling and ride are 350mm front and 340mm rear for R32s. i think it was 5mm higher for R33

hmmm, i stand corrected. but, im fairly confident that lap times could be cut down a lot more with the use of a good monotube shock i've gone from a twin tube to a good monotube and the difference was huge

you're a better driver i think you would benefit a lot from better shocks

you can get pillowball mounts. most coilovers have them actually. even all the cheapies have them as a selling point. even if they are pillowball tops, theyre not cambertops

super streets are twin tube flex are twin tube they have 4 shocks out of their massive range (according to their site) that are monotube a twintube shock will not handle trackwork well

episode 5 - impreza vs lancer, the final round

you shouldnt have changed ryan , we all know skylines are better

cos R32 onwards have double wishbone suspension not mcpherson struts like a lot of other cars. the strut is just there to hold the string and control it via damping. its not a structural link in the suspension unlike with mcpherson strut where the strut resists longitudinal loads and bolts to the hub directly, hence you can control the angle of the hub is the same as the angle of the strut. we need adjustable upper arms to adjust camber.

got my rear pair of cusco zero2 coilovers up for sale these are in awesome condition 5 levels of damping adjustment preload and base height adjustment 6kg/mm spring ive used for a bit over 1000kms. bought them off homerrules on nissansilvia for $700 i would like to get as close to this as possible, but am negotiable selling as i need to get more bilsteins to match with my front willing to delivery interstate, but SA buyers get preference. delivery will be quite cheap as my ma has an account with TNT PM me or SMS/ring 0422255843 cheers, showza

i highly doubt you have camber tops to suit R32 you should probly change that

you got a 25!?

ive got a GTR catback on my 4dr couple of the mounts needed to be changed but thats it. shape is the same

try yahooauctions. thats where i got my upper arms for my R32.

DELETE just got my old shoes relined

cams wont give you more low down power. not before boost anyway. theyre designed to be bigger and help higher up in the rev range

GTR Injectors Into RB20 DIY

i would definitely run camber on the rear. currently i have -1.5deg and find that pretty good. adjustable swaybar would be preferable to camber arms. but the camber arms should make a difference in rigidity. most 16 year old bushes arent in the best condition should make for a bit more predictability make sure that the castor rods are welded really well. i wouldnt recommend it because if one fails you're in a lot of trouble. i havent played around with toe too much yet. last time i was out on the track i ran 1mm out both sides front and back. i liked it, but i had changed heaps of stuff since i last went out so i cant really make any good judgement.

sounds like front tyres still out of balance... alignment wont affect vibration. rods are seperate to bushes. replace the bushes in the stock rods or replace the whole rod with an aftermarket rosejointed item bush's are the more street friendly option. i think you can get enough adjustment out, but im not sure, someone else will have to clarify as i've never had bushes. rose jointed rods have a lot of adjustment, more than enough, but they're not recommended for street.

toe out (negative) actually wears the outsides